BLOZ UP

That trigger offset should be close to 60, if you haven't fixed that already.

Here you go: I switched to synthetic and my front main decided to leak. This engine needs a timing belt done anyway.

Thanks. I am using the 280Z 4-speed driveshaft, the car is moving on it's own now, and is pretty much ready to drive except the exhaust and interior. What happened is I lined up the driver's side engine mount with the 280Z crossmember, went under the car and noticed the transmissions crossmember lined up, and then tried the driveshaft. After that, I was pretty much sold on engine position. The crank pulley is right next to the crossmember, to the point that the alternator belt is "difficult" to get on. The oil pan is rather low, however. It's not lower than the frame rails, but it does stick out since the frame rails go up, and there's nothing else that low until you get under the passenger compartment. After I saw that it all lined up like that I attached the transmission to the crossmember and with the engine still hoisted up, made the mounts. The driver's side was easy since it's just a metal door stop, the passenger side was more involved and went through a few revisions. So, given that it's on Tokico springs already, a debris shield would be prudent.

Apparently I missed something, I thought it was a simple question, unrelated to thermostats...

Ok, it's true that the new thermostat could be bad, but unlikely. Just judging from the temperature of the radiator pipes I'll guess that it works well enough. What I'm trying to get answers for is whether it's really that big of a deal to take so long to warm up. Where warmup is how long it takes the CHTS to read... doh.... wait a second.... let me try another CHTS. Ok, maybe bjhines was right....

Maybe I'm being ambiguous, I'm not talking about the opening of the thermostat. I'm talking about how once the thermostat opens, the engine (CHTS) takes a while, a long while, to come up to what temperature I'd like it at, 90 degrees C or so. But Tony D also had a similar problem, so I'll just take what I can from his post.

Right. The engine I suppose comes up in the operating range, 70C. But that's the low end of the range, and it just sits there, because that's when the thermostat is fully open. Relax, it's just water. Right, have been, as in no longer. I put a lower pressure cap in, as in lower than what came with the radiator, as I saw no need to have a 20 lb. cap. Now it's back at the original 13 lb cap. Although, it was nice to "stress test" the cooling system to find the leaks. If I find that cooling this motor is so difficult that a higher pressure cap is needed, then I'll worry about it. Yes, it has enough water. I guess my turbo is going to explode now that the cooling system is completely insufficient with this cap and you know, within OE (VG) specs. Me too, but I hate the ones were people just make broad assumptions about me even though I just swapped, fabricated, wired, programmed, and soon enough, tuned an entire engine swap. I just don't understand these darn cooling systems! What is glaring is that everything is working fine; the S30 cooling components are more than adequate for the VG30. I need more antifreeze and less water in the coolant.

It feels good finally seeing a sample of the results of your work, doesn't it? When I finally got mine started, it all clicked and reminded me that "Hey, all this work on all these parts was for something!"

Nah, it's a new thermostat. I just think once it opens the radiator has much more capacity than the Z31 radiator, so it takes forever. I'll have to see how it does during an actual drive. I may need a bigger intercooler and A/C condensor...

Hmm, while we're waiting... What coils is everyone going to use? I have a bunch of Z32 ones, but I don't want to have to get a separate ignitor box. Thinking about getting a bunch of IGN-1As, but that's like $400 in coils...

What about a I4 + V6? SRVG? That'd be a W10... right? Depending on how you angle the I4?

Have an exhaust shop expand the piping and make it slip-fit. Then get some springs and tabs welded on.

Ah, ok, M8X1.25. That's what I meant to type in the first place. The non-threaded part is like 8.1mm, which is why it binds. Not sure what those bolts are from, could be Z31 stuff. Ok, so just some regular old M8x1.25 stuff. I usually put the lock washers under the nut, as per the diagrams.

I lost the driveshaft bolts; the ones I thought I had left as them don't fit quite right. They are threaded only so far and the non-threaded part gets stuck on the companion flange. They are M10s, the correct thread size, and 12mm heads, and they look about the right length... But I wonder if I'll ever get them off if I tighten them down. So if someone could post a quick photo of them I'd be happy. Or a link to a picture or whatever. I've looked at google images and ebay, but I can't find anything definitive. EDIT: No, these are definitely not the DS bolts. I just tightened one a bit and it started to bind. Guess I'll go to the hardware store and pick up some proper ones.

I had just the DynoMax bullet on mine, with 6-1 headers from MSA. It was extremely loud. Sounded great at idle--and that's it. Otherwise it sounded like 1.5 civics. I added a 24" long resonator. It was supposed to be "straight-through" but when it arrived it was a chambered one. It put it down to a reasonable level, I don't think I have any videos. But it was the sound I was wanting--something I could make a 5 hour trip in and not be deaf or have a headache. However, I plan on getting a couple 18" straight through vibrant resonators, and replacing the above with those. It should be louder, but I really want a straight-through system.

I've run the VG at 19:1 to get great MPG. It just skyrockets the NOx emissions. I'm not sure what AFR the OE ECU wants but it should be in closed loop during cruise and I imagine emissions are it's top priority.

Is it automatic? The manuals do not have a pot in the TPS, it's just a switch. Even if it does it's usually just for tip-in adjustments. What's your fuel pressure at?

I went to the plumbing store and bought a bunch of steam pipe/butt weld fittings. It's all made out of that, minus the flanges. 1-1/4" Schedule 10 pipe for the primaries, and 2" SCH10 pipe for the secondaries. I made 2/3 of the collectors. The passenger side one, the nice looking one, was made by Adam at Columbia River Mandrel Bending. He gave me a great deal, and considering the headaches from making the driver's side with my limited tools, it was well worth it. I just wish I had thought of it before I welded the driver's side together. I tried to "learn" SolidWorks and quickly gave up. Then I tried to get someone else to design them in SW, but no one wanted my money. So I just use the bends and some spare heads and lots and lots of tape to mock up different ideas. Here's a more meaningful video:

I had my Z31's LC1 installed so that it didn't get power during cranking. It was annoying because then I would have to wait for it to re-init before getting any readings, so I was tuning starts blind. I have it always on when the key is on or cranking now on my S30, but the sensors just dangling at the moment. about 10 starts and nothing wrong yet... and it's (will be) much nicer to have it available during cranking and right after starting.

Yeah, but I thought they were a little heavier. 27xx isn't that bad. I'm very curious what mine is at with the VG. Guess I'll have to get it driving to find out.

L series? Mods/reductions?

That seems like an awful lot of adapters...

So Serial->USB->BT->Computer?

Can I barge in here as well? I just got my VG30 running in my 280Z. I have an ebay aluminium radiator (for a 280Z), and it's, say, +2psi cap. I'm using the stock VG thermostat, 170 degrees. So, I just got to filling and testing the coolant pipes and cooling system, so I was trying to warm it up. I can't drive it at the moment, so it's sitting in my garage. Keep in mind I'm reading temps from the CHTS, not water temp. I started 31 degrees ©, and 22 minutes later (!) it just got to 86. So in other words, it took over 22 minutes (since I started warm already) to come up to temperature. The head should be at 190, at least, right? So what gives? It never opened the cap; I found some leaks in the upper coolant pipe that I need to fix, so the pressure never got quite there. I have the stock dash gauge hooked up to the VG30 sender, since the curves are the same. It slowly rose and stayed in the middle, for whatever that's worth.

What do you mean? You either have a serial->USB to connect to a computer, or a serial->BT dongle to connect to a computer (or phone). I've got a BT dongle on the way that I'm going to try with my Linux laptop.