gvincent

I would love a copy as well, I'm doing a 95 LT1/T56 into a 76 280Z, and I have collected as much info about wiring this thing as I can but am still scared but will continue ahead. Hopefull to test fit motor and tranny this weekend. Thanks, Greg

Congratulations!!! I can't wait to see the videos! I am a bit jealous as the season is winding down and I'm still a few months from firing this thing up, Oh well next year at the Glen! Greg

He should be still around, I see he posted or visited 3 days ago. PM him and see if he ever did another update, Mine is the last one he did in Dec of last year. I was going to contact him anyway once I started on the wiring. I know his last post to that thread he was working on an RX7 project and was going to get back on the Z soon. Thanks, Greg

Thanks again guys, JBC3 I really like the turn signal in the gauges but yeah you really have to have a big brass set to open a brand new gauge up and start drilling away. Turned out awesome! 80LT1. I love the "dumbed down" version for us newbies, I will definately need to be talked to in the "dumbed dowm" version while I am enrolled in the first semester of LT1 wiring delete and mod class 101 and TunerCat for newbies dumbed down version. I am usually a quick learner so I hope to graduate real soon into the second semester classes. In the mean time I am finishing up Advanced Donor car part selling. and basic engine and engine bay prep courses. I need to sort and gather all my notes together sort them and cross check them for the start of the LT1 wiring delete and mod class 101. I think the "Bible Paper" from 73LT1Z is a must study guide. Once I have my review report done I will submit some questions for clarification and probably yell out for some help! Thanks guys, Greg

Thanks Wheelman, I have kept the complete wiring harness from the Firebird donor car, I am hoping to use the engine compartment fuse and relay box, I haven't dug into it deep enough to determine if I need the inside fuse box as well. I know most of you guys used the Caprice wiring harness. I have to search more to find out who used the fbody harness. Yeah I read about the VSS on Shoebox.com, I am using the T56 so I should have no problem with the PCM and VSS. Now a speedometer solution for the T56 is not so easy, it seems my choices are expensive, expensive plus work and more expensive plus work. Choices are the Cable-X from Abbot to run the stock speedo (http://www.atrol.com/cablex.htm) Using an electric Autometer Speedo and Tach and doing something custom with the turnsignals, high beam and brake light like Bartman and 1 tuff Z did or going with the JTR T56 tail piece mod. and removing and re-installing the tailpiece. I don't think I'm likely to find a used Cable-X on EBay though. Thanks, Greg

Wow two of the guys whose threads I have read most. I really respect that advice coming from you guys. I have been planning and working on this project for a year now and am about ready to drop the motor and tranny in. I hope you guys don't mind but this old geezer is going to ask a bunch of questions when I dive into the wiring and programming. I have the "Paper" from 73LT1Z and the entire LT1 wiring delete thread printed out. I hope the other LT1 guys like Bartman, Dano747, Deja, 80LT1, Love my V8-280Z, Mike and Tim don't mind me pestering them as well. I guess I should start searching now on what I need to buy for TunerCat and from where. Thanks Guys, Greg

Should I send my LT1 PCM out for a basic tune? What specifically should I ask for? I need a basic re-program just to get it started correct? I know the VATS has to be deleted. I won't be running the EGR or Air Pump, I have no AC in the Z right now. My Z is a 76 280Z, My LT1/T56 combo is a 95 Firebird TA I have bookmarked and printed out everything I can find on this site that is wiring related. All searches I have done indicate I should get TunerCat and a laptop and do my own programming. But I see some members got a Basic tune first. Is there a consensus on what should be addressed for a basic tune? I plan on keeping all my stock gauges for now and will have to add a SES light and a low oil level light to my dash You guys that have done this what did you ask to have done when you sent it in to be reprogrammed? Thanks, Greg

Hey Clive, EvilC, no problem I learned alot from you and appreciated your help and guidance on parting out my donor car, I am ahead of the game and have a free drive train to boot right now. I still have a bunch of parts and am still selling parts but at a slower pace. I personally am too old to do this again and this is probably the last car I will build unless the right 1967 427 Stingray coupe comes along at a sweet deal, then all bets are off! Yes, the "young uns" out there can teach an old dog a trick or two sometimes and I for one am extremely happy that they can. Now if I can learn a few tricks about wiring this LT1 up to the 280Z and get the ECU programmed I will be much happier. Thanks everyone! Greg

Now there is a thought! I could make that! I'm going to spend this weekend prepping and painting the engine bay and swap the oilpan and oil pump on the LT1 and maybe next weekend drop it in. Thanks all, Greg

Hey, Quik240Z excellent words of wisdom. Yeah, I may be ahead of the game monetarily and have a free drivetrain but not when you add my time. But again I don't have the funds and it took me 3 years to scrape together the extra cash to get me as far as I am today on this project. In Sept. it will have been a year since I bought the 2nd Z for my HybridZ dream car. Now I can continue the project as I have some funds to spend and more parts to sell. Clive thanks again for more good info. I figure I am now 4 months behind my original schedule, and if I don't finish until November at least it will be ready for me in the spring next year. Thanks, Greg

Since I just sold a few more parts, yes the motor, trans, ECU, wiring harness, driveshaft and a few other parts I'm keeping are now free. I also gave my son who has and now drives the first donor car (See my Gallery), I bought a 95 Formula, with very little damage, the complete front bumper assembly, both front fenders, the windshield, wiper motor, the tires, drivers door switches, fog lamps, and a bunch of other parts as well. It is much harder to sell the Z car stuff for some reason, I still have the 4 speed tranny, ECU and complete EFI wire harness to get rid of. Have to go pack some parts before I go to work now. If anybody needs help or wants to use my parts list and pricing as a base for making their owm let me know, I will gladly help out as other here on HybridZ have helpd me. Thanks, Greg

First I want to thank EvilC, Clive for his assistance and advice on parting out cars, He is probably one of the best. I am about $100 short of making all my money back on the donor car and I have a ton of parts left to sell yet. I used Clives pricing spread sheet as a base and made my own very extensive list, I followed his advice about posting on forums. I posted in the classifieds on LS1.com, LS1LT1.com, Fbody.com, and NewEngland-Motorsports.com Then Craigslist for RI and Boston. I haven't listed anything on EBay yet! I got a little miffed by a person in my classified thread on LS1.com saying I was getting rich off parting out a car and so I posted a "50 reasons why I will never part out another car again" list. One of the Moderators loved it and said it was the best top 50 list he had ever seen! so I thought I would paste it here for chuckles. The original post is here: http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55305&page=3 I will never part out another car in my life!!!! It is a LOT of work. besides stripping the car which is obvious and a lot of hard work, cuts, smashed fingers, bruised knuckles, sore back, Lumps on your head, sweaty and dirty long nights and wasted weekends, I needed to: 1. Buy an engine hoist 2. Buy another set of jackstands 3. Buy a car tent to cover the car and work on it in the New England weather. 4. Rent a spring removal tool 5. Buy a fuel line removal tool 6. Buy another bottle jack 7. Replace broken tools 8. Buy a couple of worklights and a long long extension cord. 9. Buy lots of packing tape 10. Buy packing material and boxes 11. Drive around time (GAS spent) and scrounge for big cardboard boxes in dumpsters. 12. Spend hours packing this stuff up for shipping 13. Drive Time to the UPS store (GAS spent) to get items weighed and sized for shipping quotes all the time 14. Waste weekends waiting for people to show up that never do! wasting valuable weekend time! 15. Holding items for people who change their minds when you could of sold it to somebody else! 16. Answering emails into the wee hours of the morning. 17. Taking pictures of everything and emailing them. 18. keeping track of listings on 4 forums and updating the lists and checking for questions. 19. Time spent Researching Ebay and junk yards to come up with prices. 20. Time spent in a shop manual on how to take something apart or identify what it is and what it is called. 21. Making trips twice (Time and Gas spent) to the post office for people who don't want to pay ups charges and want shipping quotes. 22. Making trips twice to the Greyhound bus terminal for the extra large items people don't want to spend on UPS charges and want shipping quotes 23. Having PayPal take a precentage of every dollar you make. 24. Waiting for money orders to arrive, checking the mail box daily 25. Emailing deadbeats that said they sent a money order and never did. Not getting paid for something you shipped. 26. Having the person who did come by and bought some stuff ask for some extra free stuff 27. Having a person come by and break stuff and then not buy it (What was a Mint center console) 28. Waiting for an email response from a person who said they wanted an item and you have another buyer but as a courtesy to the first buyer you give him first dibs, then he doesn't want it and now you lost the other buyer because he found it someplace else. 29. Contributing to making UPS even richer 30. Haggling with a buyer over a $10 part for 1/2 hour 31. Helping a buyer install the rear hatch and spoiler on his car. 32. Hours spent testing out everything to make sure it works before I took it apart. 33.Paying too much for the wreck to begin with. 34. Having this eyesore tent in your front yard for months. 35. Having parts laying around everywhere. 36. Having to find places to store and put all these parts. 37. getting calls from the west coast at 1:00AM 38. Having to bottle up and dispose all oil, antifreeze etc, drive to recycle place (Gas and Time) 39. Having to buy additional gas cans to store the old gas from the gas tank which was a little over a 1/4 tank, (Used in lwan mower only) 40. Paying for extra trash removal. 41. Having a buyer say it was the wrong color when you sent him pictures. 42. Having to figure out what I am going to do with the shell once it is completely stripped. 43. Calling scrap metal places to see who will take what 44. Buying a bunch of blades for the sawzall to get ready to cut it up 45. Gas and time to make several trips to the metal scrapper. 46. Not having time to spend with my family 47. Trying to keep up with my normal job and not being too tired. 48. Having a pissed off wife for not spending time 49. Having a pissed off wife for having all this junk around and looking like a white trash junk yard in a nice neighborhood. 50. and most importnat not having the time to work on my own project car which is what I bought the wrecked car for in the first place for, I should of just bought the engine and transmission from the junk yard in the firts place. Now the scary part, what do I do with all the stuff that doesn't sell? EBAY??? Oh no here we go again! but now I also make eBay richer!! So if you think it is profitable go ahead and do it. There is a reason why there are junk yards and why they wanted the same amount of money for the engine and transmission for what I paid for the entire wreck. I wold of loved for somebody to make an offer on the whole rolling chassis. too late for that now! When it comes to cars, "the parts are worth more than the whole" they say, that is why most cars that are stolen are chopped up for their parts. IT has taken up all my spare time for the past month though and I have had absolutely zero time on my Z, my schedule is out the window now and I am giving myself until the end of August to be completely rid of the donor car. Hey VinhZXT what would you charge to come up to southern MA and do an LT1 wiring job on a 76 280Z? Thanks all, Greg

The #3 fitting everybody is talking about is the one pointing down in the shoebox photo of the F body water pump posted by Deja correct? So that leaves the upper radiator hose which gets the JTR "T" fitting inline from the top radiator outlet on the drivers side and the bottom radiator hose passenger side. The rear steam line connects to this tee? The heater hoses are the other two connections on the water pump with the stock F body steam vent and finally an overflow hose from the radiator to the stock Z overflow bottle? the other steam vent is on the thermostat upper radiator connection already. The throttle body connections are just capped off? Just seeing if I got this right. Thanks, Greg

Thanks Piston, I been debating what color to paint the LT1 and have been debating if I should paint the intake and throttle body or not. Don't Flame me on the color choice, I painted the block Old School Ford Blue. Yes sacriligious to paint a Chevy motor Ford blue but I like the color, I just hope I didn't jinx the motor () I still can't decide to continue with the Ford blue on the intake and silver on the throttle body of just paint the intake silver as well but paint between the ribs on the throttle body the Ford blue. I have Chrome valve covers like yours. Alternator, acc bracket and water pump are silver already. Greg

I am another Biased LT1 owner, It does look better! I'm almost ready to drop in my LT1 motor. Now if my keyboard keys would stop sticking from my drooling over those pictures. Can we see some closeups? Did you paint your throttle body or is it really that clean? Interested in your fuel meter and throttle cable hook-ups Is the intake painted? Thanks, Greg

Thanks, Yeah I am just doing the cap and rotor for now, I don't have $500 for the MSD distributor or $285 for the Accel distributor Any specific reason you prefer the MSD cap and rotor? I am trying to decide if the $70 difference between the Accel and MSD cap and rotor are worth the $70 or is it just the name and a nice red color? Bartman mentioned the possibility of some adjustment capabilities but didn't know if they were applicable. Thanks, Greg

Thanks Bartman, I figured it was a name and the red color, I will probably just buy the Accel Cap and rotor kit for now since the Opti works fine and funds are dwindling. Almost there! prepping the engine bay and the motor, selling off the parts from the donor car SLOWLY! Still scared SH#$tless of the wiring though. Thanks, Greg

I am not looking for a "Best" so I don't end up in the tool shed () but I wondered about the differences in the different packages and why the big cost difference. I want to change the cap and rotor on my LT1 before I install it. I have shopped around and found the MSD cap and rotor for about $150 and the Accel one for about $90 and others vary from $60 to $120 Is there that much a difference in these caps and rotors to warrant such a big swing in prices? Same goes for the entire Optispark distributors from these manufacturers with MSD wanting almost double everybody else. What are the differences? anybody have experience with Accel and MSD? I have 80K on the motor and the Opti is a 95 vented unit, Motor ran fine before I pulled it but figured the ole "While I am at it" should kick in here considering the history of these distributors. Thanks, Greg

Well the bidders are coming out already. Anybody know anything about these diffs? I don't have the money to take a chance if it won't fit. I would hate to have blown this chance to get an CLSD Appreciate any assistance or if someone can direct me to another site on the web to get info on these diffs? Thanks, Greg

Ran across these in my never ending search for a R200 CLSD for my Lt1/t56 76 280Z EBay Item #230152935840 for a 4.375:1 LSD. It looks like a long nose R200 but I never knew there was an S30 Skyline??? Maybe an R30?? Is this too low for my T56? Still available on Ebay Ebay Item #230152939369 for a 3.9 to 1 LSD again it looks a little different but hard to tell from the 1 picture, again the S30 Skyline?? Didn't sell I may contact the owner if it is swappable. Are either one of these an easy swap? or are these not compatable. Thanks, Greg

Congrats!!!! Clive, You are on your way! I have been caught in parting out hell, I will never part out another car again, I haven't touched the Z or the LT1 in 3 weeks, stripping the donor Trans Am, Packing and shipping parts, and answering emails is all I have had time to do in the last 3 weeks. It is great you have all that help nearby, I'm afraid I am on my own here in southeastern Massachusetts The guys at ZCCNE are great but they all are Turbo HybridZ members, I will be the only V8 Hybrid Z member when done. I am scared shitless when it comes to the wiring so wish me luck. Got the Job in Buffalo, that is great, My company is trying to land a job at Univ of Buffalo his fall, Maybe I can stop by when I am up there hopefully and check out your Z () Greg

Hi BRAAP, I have the pan and it is very clean and nice, I have the HV pick-up tube and have ordered a Melling HV pump as well, One thing the previous owner told me was to be careful with the dipstick, he had a problem with it clearing the crank scraper and inserted it wrong and ended up causing damage with the dipstick hitting the crank. On the Hamburger pans always use their 4 piece gasket especially with a stroker because notching a one piece Felpro always seems to leak and definately use the pan reinforcement bars. AS far as being too low, I guess I will find out once I get the motor installed () Anything special I need to know about swapping out the oil pump? Thanks, Greg

BRAAP, I never heard back from Hamburger but I bought this used Hamburger off EBay Item # 220125741240 I talked with the owner before it ended and he said it came off and LT1. It modified for the oil level hole as well. I hope I did ok, Now I need to get a matching pick-up tube I suppose Thanks all, Greg

Yeah Grumpy I hear you, I tend to think some manufacturesr are being penny wise and dollar stupid! They just don't understand the power of the web in this day and age. Long ago you could piss off one customer and he might tell a few people or so, no real damage done right? but in today's world that one customer can let thousands of people know about a bad service in a minute. Yeah, I was shocked at the first reply and a little pissed that is why I took the time to respond, but how many people would of stopped at the first reply and givin up leaving a bad taste in their mouth with that manufacturer? I applaud Edelbrock for finally coming through and the persons honesty in the last reply, but why the first response? it definately got me pissed off. But now I know how to deal with Edelbrock and have a contact person there I will file away just in case it is needed again. Greg

I bought a set of Russell Wire Looms for my LT1 and placed them with all my other parts for my project, Well when the time came to install them I couldn't and still can't find a couple of the plastic wire holder pieces. So I went online and asked if I could buy a couple of replacement parts. The Emails below tell the story. I originaly wrote: Hi, I need to buy some replacement parts for the #611148 spark plug wire divider. (Page 44 of the 06 Russell catalog) I tore down my LT1 engine a little over a year ago and have lost or misplaced some of the plastic wire dividers for the item. How and where do I order replacement pieces? The engine is ready to go back in now and I need these wire holders. I am missing one of the three wire holders, two of the two wire holders and two of the single wire holders. Can I just get what I am missing or a complete replacement set for these snap in plastic holders? I had a picture attached but I guess your email doesn’t allow attachments Thanks, Greg Initial Response from Edelbrock: Greg, ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥In theory you should be able to attach pictures, but our filter can be just a little too picky. ♥Unfortunately, we do not have replacement parts for that kit. ♥Getting new wire clips will require purchasing the entire kit. ♥I apologize for the inconvenience. ♥Thank you for using Edelbrock products, please let me know if you have any further questions. ♥ Sincerely, Aaron Jones Technical Support ajones@edelbrock.com I replied with: So Edelbrock does not sell replacement parts??? How can one do that? You mean I have to dish out another $50 for plastic pieces that cost pennies and were loose in a box to begin with when they arrived? If they weren’t loose laying on the bottom of the box I probably wouldn’t of lost them! I suppose I can’t do a warranty replacement either because it was a little over a year ago and I no longer have the receipt from Summit also!! You mean out of the thousand pieces of these clips you have for assembling these kits you can’t get any extra pieces? If you don’t make the clips yourselves then could you please tell me who your the supplier of these clips is so I can contact them? You must have an assembly part number for these pieces that you order from a supplier correct??? I didn’t ask for free clips, I offered to pay for them. I guess I am learning an expensive and valuable lesson here on Edelbrock and their affiliated products on whose products not to buy anymore! Boy all the car forums will love this! One Unhappy Customer Greg Edelbrock responded again with: Greg, ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥As I stated before, we do not have a part number to sell these pieces separately. After discussing your situation with my manager however, I was informed that we keep a small number of these components around for cases in which they were missing from the package. ♥He has authorized me to send out the triple, two double, and two single wire looms that you have requested as a courtesy. Please reply with your shipping address and I will send them out immediately. Thank you for using Edelbrock products, please let me know if you have any further questions. I responded with: THANK YOU Aaron!! I appreciate the extra effort you did on my behalf. Thank your manager as well. Now that is a service for a customer, again I thank you you really went above and beyond, there are not too many people like that these days, it just makes you feel good when you discover that there are still real good people out there still. I was just about to order some plastic wire looms from Taylor Performance Products and was going to try and drill and modify them to make them work somehow. Again Thanks, Greg Edelbrock Responded with: Greg, ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ I’m glad I was able to assist you.♥ I apologize for shutting you down initially, but we try to steer people towards purchasing parts whenever possible as our replacements are limited.♥ In cases such as yours however, when a replacement would either be ridiculously over-priced or extremely time-consuming, we are more than happy to help out.♥ The parts are on their way, you should get them next week.♥ Thank you for using Edelbrock products, please let me know if you have any further questions. ♥ Sincerely, Aaron Jones Technical Support ajones@edelbrock.com So I guess it pays to Bitch, Moan, and Whine every now and then! Thanks, Greg