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gvincent

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Everything posted by gvincent

  1. gvincent
    Hey Mike, Do you have any pics of the hose splicers? According to all recent LT1 swaps the majority of the swaps have the vent tee on the top radiator hose now, Is JTR in agreement with this? Will I still have the cobbled looks of radiator/hose/reducer/hose/water pump and radiator/hose/reducer/hose/tee fitting/hose/water pump? There has got to be a cleaner way to do this. It looks like a rotor rooter tiller with all the hose clamps right now. Greg
  2. gvincent
    Oh, there was another thread before the one I posted last year but I can't find it right now but I did copy some text and pics from it. I attached it as a .zip file, it is a MS word file when you un-compress it. I couldn't upload it as a .doc file, it exceeded the limit. Thanks, Greg edit, found those threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=85393 Post #12 and more info on page 2 LT1 hoses.doc.zip
  3. gvincent
    I brought a similar thread up a year ago and I think this thread enforces the top hose theory. Here was my thread from last year. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134583 In that thread I have pics of my old set-up also. I was also looking through my engine photo collection of other members past LT1 installations and most of them used the lower hose like I did the first time. Some of you guys will recognize your photos. Curious that most of these probably worked ok??? If you see your pic let us know if you are still running this way I have a Griffin rad with a huge bottom connection so I guess I will have to spend some time at NAPA searching for hoses that will fit the bottom () Thanks, Greg
  4. gvincent
    This is covered in other threads. Yes you do need to replace the automatic plate with a manual flywheel. If you are using the T56 for the LT1 you need the pressure plate, clutch disk, throw-out bearing and you need to swap pilot bushings on the crankshaft. Need to re=program the ECU but you have to do this anyway.. Search, there is plenty of really good info here. Greg
  5. gvincent
    I actually paid less for my Sanderson Headers through JTR that what Sanderson wanted direct. Greg
  6. gvincent
    Wow you have had bad luck with your Opti. I have zero miles on my replacement motor in the Z right now as it is still going back together and I swapped the original Opti on this motor even though it had only 80K on it when I pulled if from a good running Caddy. My sons Formula has close to 90K on the original with just a new cap and rotor 3K miles ago, still running strong, Friend has a Caddy with 175K on the original Opti, I thought all the problems were with the 93-94 non vented. My original motor was a 95 Trans Am with 85K and original Opti, I put a MSD cap and rotor on it but it spun a rod bearing while still on Jack stands so really zero miles there. I think we both need a new run of luck, if this LT1 throws a bearing I am going back to old school with a 406SBC!
  7. gvincent

    I just had a plate welded up and scrounged a male and a female idler pulley.

    I located the male (grooved) pulley about where the AC was on the F body and the Female pulley a little lower than where the power steering pump used to be.

    This is all on an F body accessory bracket. If you are using a B body I think it is different but there is a friend the next town over that is starting his LT1 from a Caprice and he says he can use the AC delete pulley hr has and I think he has a setup to delete the PS pump as well, I can check with him for you. I think he is away this weekend though. I can send you pics of my set-up if you like. I am only running 1 tensioner pulley on my set-up, just give me your email, actually I just left you my email on your hose thread.

    Thanks,

    Greg

  8. gvincent
    Figures, As usual always on the west coast! Never any in the NE rust belt! Just as well I have too many Z's anyway right now, I need to get one of them running soon! Greg
  9. gvincent
    Hi Larry, Please send me some pics of your hose set-up, I don't have the oil cleaner but your pics will be worth a thousand words () I don't have the JTR chevy aluminum radiator I have a Griffin aluminum that is deep and has big connections, I bought it off some guy on ebay that had it in a 240SX race car, it fit between the frame rails perfectly so I bought it cheap. I had the steam routed the other way before, did you hook up your heater hoses or bypass? my email: gregory.vincent@comcast.net I know I had previous thread on this but pictures rule! My second LT1 motor is back in, connecting all the wiring again and I'm going to run all new fuel and heater/radiator plumbing correctly this time. Thanks, Greg Thanks, Greg
  10. gvincent
    Well, lets see the pics! Do you have the steam line attached? This always got me confused as to which side to dump the vent line, some to the passenger side radiator bottom hose and some say the drivers side radiator top hose. I am putting my second engine back in and will be re-doing all my hoses again as they were temp at best before. I used the JTR Tee fitting on the hose running to the bottom. Greg Greg
  11. gvincent
    The LT1 t56 is a direct bolt-up to a SBC, you need a new flywheel that will use the LT1 Pressure plate and clutch disc, there available from MCleod or Centerforce for the early SBC, the stock hydralics will work but it is easier to go with a new 7/8" Tildon or whatever master as adapting the F body master is a bitch, get a new slave from a T5, as if bolts right up and has a bleeder, get the metal one, Search, there are a bunch of threads about this already. The Centerforce flywheel is less than the Mcleod I know for a 400SBC with counter balance it is a 460370W-2C 153 tooth with counter balance, you need a new pilot bearing also. Greg
  12. gvincent

    Hey Greg. Do you have any info on the serpentine belts and pullys for a LT1? I am looking at my set up and I think I am missing something, I have an installed a/c delete and a tensioner pully. The PS was removed and there is no replacement pully yet. I have another tensioner pully in a box brand new, What do I need? Thanks

    Larry

  13. gvincent
    I have an Hamburger oil pan on an LT1 and used the 4 piece Transdapt/Hamburger gasket kit, I had the same leak from the rear, I dropped the pan again and re-applied more sealant and it still leaked but a lot less. I called Transdapt and they sent me another gasket kit free of charge, I haven't installed it yet as the motor deveelped a knock and is being swapped out right now, I know you are not supposed to use the one piece GM pan gasket with the pan, Maybe you need to use the Hamburger Gasket? and not use the "single-piece gasket from Napa"??? Greg
  14. gvincent
    Depending on your motor/trans selection dictates how much you need to massage your tunnel. I have the LT1 with the T56 in a 280Z and had to do very little tunnel massaging. Check out my pics in my gallery. You can see how much of the original tranny mount I cut out with a SawZall. I didn't have to move the hood latch because of the Lt1, But even though with a Distributor there you can cut away the 45, move it over with the JTR plate, or eliminate it and use hood pins where the bump stops are.
  15. gvincent
    I can't answer from experience as I have my heater hoses hooked up. On the heater hoses I removed from the Firebird I noticed an inline check valve with a flow direction arrow. I used this section of hose to keep things flowing the same direction. I guess this is a water version of a diode allowing fluid to flow in one direction only. I am guessing that you may at least keep this flow direction check valve inline when connecting the heater output to the pump return. Just my thoughts, it may not be necessary, I'll let someone that is not running the heater chime in. Although a defroster does come in handy if you get caught in a summer rain storm........ Greg
  16. gvincent
    Don't know about your electrical problem. Fuel should be around 42psi, others have said 40-44psi for stock injectors
  17. gvincent
    When I am ready to retire I would love to move back to the Central coast somewhere, Anywhere between Atascadero and Monterey I like Cambria. But I suppose house prices there has gone through the roof. I remember building VW dune buggies and VW sand rails and running on Pismo Beach back in the late 60's early 70's Enviromentalist have probably put a stop to that long time ago like they did here on the Cape Cod dunes. Greg
  18. gvincent
    Well we have success, I was able to remove my balancer and hub from the F-body motor and remove the hub and balancer from the B-body motor. I marked them before they were completely off and then noticed a mark left on the inside of the hub left by the keyway, It wasn't an engraved mark just that the inside of the hub had a stripe of slightly darker metal or an oil mark I noticed on both hubs before I wiped them clean. I am sure if I had twisted or turned the hub while removing it the mark would not be there. I just made sure that the mark left by the keyway slot lined up with the keyway. I Torked it to the 70Lbs and it looks good to go. I didn't put the B-body hub onto the broken F-body motor as I will never use it, so If anybody needs a B-Body hub I have one. Putting the hub back on I had to go out and get a longer bolt to get it started and then swapped the bolt out once it was on far enough to use the original bolt and spacer/washer. I didn't want to hammer anything! Thanks all Greg
  19. gvincent
    All,Thanks for the help I got it clutch installed and bolted the tranny back, I ended up using a high temp red tacky caliper grease from Penzoil. Smeared a thin coating on the shaft/spline, new pilot bearing, throw out bearing surface and the fork. Cleaned both the new resurfaced flywheel and the new pressure plate with brake clean. Thanks again Greg
  20. gvincent
    Hey, thanks for that source, I spent many hours trying to find them, I looked in about 4 speciality hardware shops, went to 3 GM dealers and begged with no luck, tried a few transmission shops and spent hours searching on the web. Hopefully I will never need those pins again but you never know. Yeah sourcing autoparts is a lot easier on the west coast than in New England. I grew up in CA and built a lot of cars, there were speed shops on almost every corner, people trading or selling stuff in the valley Green Sheet, junk yards up the gazoo, Van Nuys cruise nights etc. in general there are a lot more people into working on their cars than here in the New England rust belt. Hell the closest dragstrip is over 2 hours away from me in NH and there isn't one in MA The closest road track is even further away. Greg
  21. gvincent
    I don't have the oil cooler so I am not sure I can help you with that. As for the 2 hose connections on the throttle body I just capped them, they are not needed, they are used to warm the throttle body up for cold winter driving which I don't do. The steam line coming from the rear of the motor needs to be run into the bottom radiator hose with a "T" fitting that is available from JTR. So to confuse you and probably myself one more time there is another thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134583
  22. gvincent
    I would keep the 7/8 and wait until you got it running. Did you re-tap the rod shaft and mate it to the Datsun pedal adjustment? Mine feels fine and I was able to adjust the pedal to exactly where I wanted it. I don't remember the bore of the metal T5 slave but quite a few have gone this route but mostly because they didn't want a plastic slave so close to the exhaust and wanted the advantage of having a bleeder. I think I paid $45 for the pre 93 Camaro slave at AutoZone Using AN fittings to replace the GM quick-connect was another story though.
  23. gvincent
    I have the Tilton 7/8" master and the metal t5 slave on my T56, granted I only got to drive it onto a trailer, off a trailer down my driveway a couple of times and back up on jack stands before the LT1 decided to develop a knock but the clutch feel was fine. I drove the 95 Trans AM it came out of and my son has a 95 Formula and they all felt about the same pressure wise. Hopefully I will be running again by summer and will let you know wih a real road test. Greg
  24. gvincent
    It seems from the responses so far that the block may be good to get but all the parts he has are not the best parts selection for a good decent build. He will only sell the complete short block and all the EngineTech parts for $800 un-assembled but I would have to sell off the stock rods, the cam, and the pistons and rings if I didn't keep those either, I would have to spend at least another 2K+ to get the right rods, Dart heads, cam, intake carb, distributor, Accessories, brackets, pan etc. so it is starting to not sound like such a good idea/deal. I'll keep looking, someday..... Thanks Doc and everybody all for the good advice. Greg
  25. gvincent
    Thanks again, I will probably give the hub swap a try. Any special tools required for installing the hub back on? I read somewhere not to hammer it on as this could cause damage to the internal bearings and that is all I need is to have 2 LT1's with bearing problems and still have not driven 1 mile yet. If I don't get the Jegs hub how much do you want for your spare? I didn't want to spend anymore money on the Caddy motor. As it is I just bought that motor so I can at least finally get some drive time this summer after almost 3 years of working on this swap. Then next fall I will decide to either re-build the f-body LT1 or go old school with a 400SBC and get rid of both LT1's Thanks, Greg
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