gvincent

Moderator: Please move this to the Drive line forum if it belongs there. I searched and found people have used regular axle and bearing grease, and some say use Black Moly Axle grease, others say to use Hi temp brake caliper synthetic grease, and all say NOT to use white lithium grease, What Brand and grease type have you used and how much did you apply? I was thinking to wipe a little grease on the pilot bearing face, the clutch fork pivot points, the face of the throw out bearing that contacts the clutch fork and just a tiny wipe on the clutch and shaft splines and input shaft tip. I don't want to put too much on to get any slung onto the PP or clutch disc or to little to have problems later. Thanks, Greg

dts300z, Thanks for the response. Do you know what puller and installer is needed? Is this something you can rent from AutoZone? What do they look like? I looked inside my hub and it is a little rusty. I should probably start spraying Liquid Wrench in there nightly. I thought there was no keyway on the LT1 cranks? I know about making a mark to line up the triangle again like I did when I removed the balancer to put in the new OPTI-Spark. How much do you want for the F-body hub? Funny you have a spare Caprice LT1 and I have a Spare Caddy LT1 which I am now having to swap in because the 80K F-Body decided to develop a rod knock while still on Jack stands! Thanks, Greg

I should of posted this thread first. I was swapping all my accessories and brackets over from the F body LT1 to the B body LT1 and now the B Body harmonic balancer pulley is at least a 1/2" further out from the block??? all my F body pulleys with the F body bracket do not line up! The F body and the B body Balancer do look the same but the Hubs are not. It seems the B body hub sticks the balancer out further by about a half an inch, The pulleys for the F body are a 1/2 inch further back, I measured the balancer from the block and came up with a about 4-1/2" on the F body motor and 5" on the B body motor. I attached some pictures What's Up?? I thought they would of been the same. Have others encountered this? Should I shim out the F body accessory bracket, cut and extend the rear alternator support rods or change/swap over the Hub? I think I would rather shim out the bracket it seems others have run into problems removing the hub, destroying the threads in the crank or other nasty stories and messing with the orientation due to the crank/hub being keyless. Another pause in the road..... Damm!!!

He finally sent me the cam specs, this is the info he sent. "The cam is sae dur 266 in - 298 ex -- valve lift 443 in - 465 ex Thoughts on this cam? What are is the cc of a 194 fuellie head? Thanks, Greg

Don't want to hijack this thread but the F body and the B body Balancer do look the same but the Hubs are not. It seems the B body hub sticks the balancer out further by about a half an inch, I found this out last night while swapping over my F body engine accessory bracket onto my B body engine. The pulleys for the F body are a 1/2 inch further back, I measured the balancer from the block and came up with a about 4-1/2" on the F body motor and 5" on the B body motor. I attached some pictures here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=986250#post986250 Have others encountered this? Should I shim out the F body accessory bracket or change swap over the Hub, I would rather shim out the bracket it seems others have run into problems removing the hub, destroying the threads in the crank and messing with the orientation due to the crank/hub being keyless. Another pause in the road..... OH, you can see my simple ac/ps deletion plate and junkyard pullys I'll take some better pics. It works fine, used a much shorter belt. Thanks, Greg

Hey Pyro, Yeah I have that one in my favorites as well as a couple more I listed below. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/406ci_chevy_small_block/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0401_chevrolet_406_ci_engine_build/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0802ch_406_small_block_chevy_engine/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/engines_drivetrain/cams_heads_valvetrain/0703ch_valve_spring_tech/index.html http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93863_500_horsepower_engines/index.html I emailed the guy back , waiting for cam numbers and head cc on the 194 Greg

Has anybody used any stuff from Enginetech/IROC? Experience good or bad? Doc, I just drool over your 400's, I wish I had enough confidence to build my own. I have saved a lot of good articles on different 400 builds and bookmarked posts from both you Grumpy and others on this site as well. I still may keep my LT1 and run that for the time being and get enough confidence and money to do a slow take my time 400 build in the future. Other than VW engines 30 years ago and a 396 BBC with a lot of help I have never built an engine. I can buy all the 400 parts above for $800 un-assembled as a starting point. Greg

Actually you want the Mid year 87-89 300ZX Turbo R-200 CLSD (Clutch type) the earlier 300ZX were not limited slip. They are hard to find and expensive and most will need new clutch discs unless you are lucky, But it happens, I found mine cheap. Also look at the Brute Force CLSD as an option, all you need is an open R-200 and install the Brute Force CLSD and your done. There are some threads already here on this topic and R-200 CLSD in general. Greg

Hey Congrats Deja! You rock! I thought I was so close last year until the Fbody LT1 developed a knock while the car was still on jackstands. Oh well I have the Caddy LT1 ready to go and the fbody LT1 is now out and the T56 separated. I ordered a new clutch and pressure plate and will start swapping over the accessories if it would get a little warmer and the Honey Do list would give me a break. Love the Grille! Greg

I stumbled upon a guy who has a 4 bolt SBC freshly rebuilt all stock for $1200 or a 406 ready to assemble for $800. He will assemble the 406 but hasn't given me a price yet. Here is what I know so far: Engine came out of a 72 Chevy wagon with 70K and was going to be a school Auto Shop project but got canned Block was fully tested and machined and is now bored 30 over New cam bearings installed Stock 400 crank 10/10 10.5:1 Hypereutectic alloy pistons stock rods a big cam (he will get me specs off the box) new lifters, bearings, gasket set, timing gear and chain, oil pump, push rods, etc. basically everything in the two pictures so I think it will end up being a 406 with all stock internals except for the pistons and cam. If he assemblies it he will put on a used Performer intake and 750 Holly and has a freshly done set of 194 Fuelie heads complete ready to bolt on. He will run the engine on a stand when he is done. From the Pics I can see pretty clearly that most of the Boxes are from EngineTech IROC Thoughts? What do you think it would be worth when assembled Tough to tell power capabilities until I get the cam specs. Guesses?? If I decide to go this route I will be selling both of my LT1 motors Greg

Yeah I do, Drop me an email on Monday to remind me to send it to you gregory.vincent@comcast.net

There are wiring diagrams on this site showing what all the ECU pin out you need to use. You have to search for them, I have this info on my computer at work I can send it on monday. The fuel system interlock setup and VATS is the hard part I found, that and I'm still dealing with the VSS. I'll figure that out once I get the car running again. Long story, rod spun bearing or a crank bearing gave out while still on jack stands! Greg

I have a 76 280Z LT1/T56 with the 300ZX R200 CLSD, Firebird shortened drive shaft and lowering springs, I had to lower and re-weld the 2 sway bar mounts about 3/4" lower to clear the drive shaft. Greg

I just searched my emails back to 2006 and couldn't find any info that either Joe or Terry sent may or may not of sent me. Sorry. I did end up making my own pulley set up to delete the AC and PS pump with male and female pulleys I scrounged out of a junkyard, I took the pulleys and the bolts and then took a plate of steel cut it and drilled it to bolt up the pulleys where they would work and clear each other. I bolted the plate to the LT1 Accessory bracket. I removed the power steering pump. I haven't done the AC yet and may not do it for awhile. I currently just pulled my engine and tranny out because of a knocking noise, I will be removing my pulley assembly off this motor and onto another LT1, I can take pictures and measurements then if your interested in just the AC and PS pump removal pulley system Greg

Larry, I pulled the engine and trans forward to expose the slots, I gave you a detailed answer on your Header post. Are you talking about the EGR holes at the back of the LT1 manifold? You need to block them off, make your own out of plate or there are kits on Ebay for this. I do know somebody that uses the old EGR passages in the manifold for cooling the air inside the intake but I don't know if the work is worth the benefit, he uses a transmission cooler and a small electric pump to run coolant through it. Greg

Larry, I was able to unscrew the three long bolts that hold the JTR Bracket and Spacer to the engine block and remove the whole assembly whei I did it. I think I also loosened the bolts that bolt the GM mounts to the JTR bracket. Anyway.... I just removed my LT1/T56 2 weeks ago and I only had to remove the 2 cross member bolts in the slotted holes that bolt into the GM motor mount. I then removed the transmission mount and put a floor jack under it and lowered it about an inch, I then put the engine hoist on the engine and just lifted it enough to have tension on the chain and engine and take the tension off the cross member mount. I had my son under the car guiding the floor jack supporting the transmission and ready to catch the drive shaft as I pulled on the engine hoist pulling the motor and transmission forward about an inch which exposed the slotted holes and dropped the drive shaft. So they were fully exposed at this time. I then pulled the motor forward somemore and lowered the trany more, I raised the motor with the hoist at the same time clearing the harmonic balancer clear of the crossmember and contiinued with lowering the transmission and raising the engine until the 8 quart oil pan cleared and the rest was easy to keep hoisting the engine and tranny up until it cleared the radiator support cross member and pulled it forward out of the car with my son guiding the tail of the transmission so it wouldn't hit anything. Anyway I did it slowly at first thinking about your situation and yes I was able to expose the slots just my lowering the transmision down a little and pulling the engine and tranny forward enough to get at the slots on the crossmember, depending on your driveshaft length it will or will not fall out. I strongly suggest you drain your transmission oil before you have a huge puddle on the floor, once the driveshaft is removed transmission fluid will pour out onto the floor. Greg

As for the DAMM GM roll pins, I lucked out with some great help from a guy on another forum. He mailed them to me for free. the web site is no longer up but you might try and call him See emails below: Greg, I have 2 you can try. Both are smaller than what you have and both came out of slaves and should work. I would be happy to send it to you just me your address and phone number and we will send it out. If you need it overnight you would need to pay for that. Thank You, Joe Huneycutt Six Speeds Inc./T56Rebuilds.com 888-937-4411 http://www.sixspeedsinc.com  From: Greg Vincent [mailto:gregory.vincent@comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:00 PM To: Joe@SixSpeedsInc.com Subject: Roll pin Help! Hi Joe, I was on the Camaross.com forum trying to find where I can get/Buy a freaking roll pin and somebody referred me to you. I have a T56 that I put in a Datsun 280Z and bought an aftermarket T5 metal slave cylinder because it fits better and won’t melt with my exhaust being so close. Anyway I lost the freaking pin for the GM quick connect hydraulic line and cannot find one. I tried a local dealer, they laughed at me. I tried the local AutoZone, Advanced auto etc. I Searched and posted on Camaross.com, LS1.com, Ls1Lt1.com and HybridZ.org I have tried a 1/8” roll pin.... Too big I am using a nail right now but it is loose and leaks and I loose pressure. If you have some pins or know where to buy a pin, know a part number, or know the size I need please let me know before I get completely pissed off enough to pull the slave, have it machined for an –3 or -4AN fitting and buy an AN Hydraulic line and get rid of this GM not so quick quick connect fitting. Thanks, Greg

When you had the driveshaft shortened how much play did you leave? Usually you need to have 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch play. If you just need to set it back 1/8" or 1/4" you might be able to do that depending on how much play you left in the driveshaft. Unbolt the motor and tranny, support the motor with a hoist and put a floor jack under the tranny. Slide the motor and tranny forward enough to expose the cross member. Remove the JTR brackets and GM motor mounts, hoist the engine up as high as you can and use a dremel tool with a grinder and grind off enough metal to elongate the hole enough. It can be done. I had to grind a little more off my passenger side to get the bolts to line up. I put the JTR brackets back on loose and the GM mounts loose as well, then started the bolts through the cross member holes into the GM mounts and slowly tightened all the bolts while having somebody keep pressure on pushing the motor towards the rear. Went back under the car and checked transmission alignment and then loosened which ever side cross member bolt slightly while using a prybar to move the tranny into it's aligned position. Tighten bolt on crossmember and tranny mount, done. Why remove the reverse lock-out? I would keep that. Hope this helps, Greg

I had no problems with clearance of the Sanderson headers in the JTR set back position. Did you use the complete JTR kit? Are you using the DAT-105 spacers? I have my engine set back as far as possible. I only had to slot the cross member motor mount holes towards the rear. I did not use them and the fit is fine. I think other people did not use the DAT-105 spacers as well. I notched the corner of the GM motor mount a little to give me a little more clearance on the steering shaft as recommended by JTR but I probably could of gotten away without it. Greg

I personally am not a fan of slip on fuel connections with EFI pressures, Ok for the low pressure carb applications, I just feel more secure with screw on fittings. I have witnessed 2 EFI fuel leak fires from people using regular non EFI rated rubber fuel lines on barbed fittings, not pretty. If your going to use slip on fittings make sure they are a matched hose and fitting set from a reputable supplier like Russell, Fargola, etc. Greg

Can't beat the Sanderson 1-5/8 from JTR for the price, OH make sure you specify for angled "D" port. Greg

Bench bleed the Camaro slave by hand, bleed master and line together, keep line above master and connect to slave and then install slave. Also try the other parts stores, $59 sounds high, Advanced, Pep boys etc. The metal one has the bleeder. Better deal that I got on the adaptors. MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET THE PIN THAT SECURES THE GM CONNECTOR, YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO TRACK ONE OF THOSE DOWN!!!!! Greg

There are adaptors for standard AN fittings to the GM Quick-connects, on the LT1 fuel pressure regulator there are 2 sizes, the supply side is 3/8" and the return is 5/16". I went with an Aeromotive regulator for the LT1 at first and the AN adaptors but now had the fuels rails modified for AN fittings and changed the fittings on the Areomotive regulator to AN as well. Re-plumbed the fuel lines all the way back to AN fittings. I have the adaptors still I think somewhere.... Greg

Hi, This is what I entered in my spreadsheet GM/BW/Tremec Slave clutch cylinder( Metal T5 from autozone) Pre 93 F body $44.94 Carshopinc.com GM hydraulic to -3AN adapter fitting (Russel 640281) $26.69 Summit 50" -3AN braided clutch line hose $30.00 If i go through the receipts I might be able to find the slave part number but I found it on the web site, got the number, called the local and picked it up. search their sight for 92-87 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) it is there. Thanks, Greg

I went and bought the aluminum not plastic slave cylinder for the T5, it bolts right up and has the bleed screw. I think it was like $35 from AutoZone, only thing I had problems was that it has the damm GM push on and pin hose fitting, I had to locate the AN fitting adaptor and then ran braided hose to the Tilton. I can get the part #'s I have them in a spreadsheet at work. Greg