gvincent

How about a modified LT1 intake manifold? There are a couple of people making these, I don't know that much about them except that it flows a lot better than the TPI set-ups. Check out this for some pictures http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk197/aholzhaus/ Greg

HI, Mansfield, Yes right next door, I am in Norton, we definately have to get together. Yeah I still have a few parts left from the Trans Am I parted out still on the Boston Craigslist. This is great, I thought there wasn't another V8 Z guy anywhere in MA. Jason, (Midnightmoonlight) is a Z nut also and autocrosses his Z but it is not a V8, He lives about 50 miles away in Westford and of course John of Baddog parts etc. lives in Bedford. I am the only V8 HybridZ member of the ZCCNE that I know of but there are a few Turbos. Give me a ring or email and we can get together. Greg

You don't say where your located, it is a fair deal but not a good one for that mileage. I bought an 80K LT1 from a 95 Caddy that was babied for $225 last summer with no accessories, no computer, and a butchered harness so deals are out there. Look for Caddy's and Buick Roadmasters and Non police Impalas for a LT1 motor, you know that they had a much milder life that a Police Cruiser. The Camaro and Firebirds are great with the aluminum heads and all (actually the Iron head flows better, but the aluminum ones can be ported and improved upon to be even better) but try to actually find one that wasn't beat on and had a rough life! I bought one from a Firebird LT1 that sounded fine but developed a knock and it had only 80K so I now know it probably had a rough life. I wish people would give the Opt-Spark a break the 95-97 vented units are fine, it was the early non vented units that gave it a bad rap. Unless your building the motor and going to be reving it way high the Opti works just fine. I know of LT1's with that mileage and more still running the original cap and rotor! You can get a lot of mileage out of these motors before needing a refresh, with EFI and computer control the cylinders are not washed with fuel as they were with carburators so there isn't the cylinder wear there used to be in the past. Greg

Do a search for LT1 wiring etc. Everything is all here many times on this site. If you still can't find it after searching I have a hard drive full of info. Greg

Piece of cake! The tried and true Milwaukee SawZall and a couple long metal blades, and it was out in 7 minutes tops. I have pics of the tunnel in my gallery on this site. Greg Also used the JTR kit but did not use the lowering plates and the Sanderson headers fit perfectly without having to notch the corner of the motor mount. l

I have pics of my trans tunnel and what I removed in my gallery pics. As for the switch on the T56 yeah it was really tight so I drilled a 1-1/4" hole in the side of the tunnel where the connector was and used a soft rubber plug I found at the junkyard from some trunk. Now I have access to the connector and you don't even know it is there unless you pull back the pad and carpet. I suppose you can find an appropiate firewall rubber plug somewhere as well. As for the LT1, I am about to install my second one, I had some unusual bad luck with the first one. Cold air, make your own out of rubber elbows and aluminum pipe or buy one of those cheap Ebay ones for the Camaro and Firebird as a starter kit, you need 1 more elbow though. If your looking for HP yeah go LS1, harder to install but if you just want a great EFI cruiser the LT1 is a good choice. I personally wanted a old school 400/406 SBC but I am an old school guy. This computer tuning has me baffled. I would trade both of my LT1's and all my performance stuff, computer, software everything for a good old school 400/406 to mate up to my T56. Greg

Not sure but if you are going to replace the LT1 FI intake manifold for a carb setup most that I read about also have the rear distributor hole drilled in the manifold for a small cap distributor? I could be wrong and am thinking of the modified LT1 manifold for a TBI motor Greg

Thanks Grumpy, I'll put a call into them. The link was yours from post #112 above. I am searching for a suitable inexpensive hose for FI use with -AN fittings Thanks again, Greg

Are any of the hoses from http://www.discounthydraulichose.com..._p/r5-hose.htm suitable for fuel injection applications? I want to re-plumb my FI lines from the stock Z tank to the LT1 (3/8" supply at the fuel rail and 5/16" return, I have the Aeromotive LT1 rail mounted FPR, Mallory 110FI fuel pump, and two inline fuel filters, a Holly 162-517 100 Micron with -8 AN fittings and a Earls 230106 35 Micron with -6 AN fittings Since my restrictions are the stock 280Z fittings at the tank and the 5/16" return at the rail I think I will be ok with a -6 AN braided hose or one of those rubber type rated for FI? Thanks Greg

I have the exact same set-up, T56 with the T5 aluminum slave, the 7/8" Tilton, a SS braided cable AN-4 and the GM quick-connect to AN adaptor McCleod ($35!!!), It was a bitch to bleed and after trial and error found the O ring seal on the AN adaptor was not seating properly in the slave. I had gotten frustrated and let it sit for a week and noticed a few fluid drops on the quick-connect adaptor and garage floor. I ground the end of the McCleod adaptor down a tiny bit and it then seated correctly. Oh and don't loose that damm roll pin for the GM Quick-connect adaptor, they are impossible to find, not even at the GM dealer! There is nothing "quick" about these fittings, they suck, at one point I was even thinking about drilling and taping the quick-connect opening on the slave for an -AN fitting. Whoever invented these fittings should be shot along with the GM fuel injection fittings, but that is another story. I have to pull the motor and tranny out again but I will remove the slave from the tranny and leave it all connected this time. I don't want to go through bleeding again. Also bleed the Master first it helped alot, but watch out for your newly painted engine bay, use plenty of rags Greg

Thanks Grumpy, The engine that has the knock was a strictly a stock LT1 with 80K miles form a 95 Trans Am. I dropped the stock oil pan and removed the crank bolts/studs that held the stock tray in place and replaced them with factory bolts and torqued them to spec. I installed the Mellings M55HV oil pump and solid shaft and metal collar. I then installed the oil pick-up that came with the Trans Dapt 8 quart Hamburger oil pan #1098. The pan has a windage tray welded to it and baffle doors. I assumed that the Mellings M55HV pump was correct as that was what Trans Dapt had reccommended to me. The knock wasn't there right away and developed over time, since it hasn't been driven other than to drive it on and off a trailer the rest of the time was simply starting it and running it to see what TunerCAT was reading as we deleted EGR, VATS, and other things, It did have some problem with cooling and I wonder if I overheated it as I was trying to get gauges to work. I have the other engine almost prepped to swap it out but ran into some OptiSpark problems....Long story, tiny little Torx bolts break while removing cap and rotor, drill bit breaks...you get the picture, looks like I am going to have to use my spare brand new Opti-Spark distributor on this motor! ARGHH! Anybody want to trade for 2 LT1 motors with a ton of parts and accessories for a Old School 400SBC?

Actually Grumpy posted one of his excellent write-ups on oil pumps in this thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137375 You want to read his post #2 I read it and need to read it about 5 more times before It starts to sink in and I can grasp all the great info in that thread. I am wondering if my pickup tube was too close to the deep 8 quart Hamburger pan? but I had checked with the guys on the right Melling pump to use before I swapped out the old pump, Oh well I will use Grumpy's method to check this once I rebuild the motor before I put the pan back on. Greg

So I should of stuck with the stock pump, a solid pump shaft and sleeve to upgrade from the nylon sleeve and of course keep the Hamburger pick up tube for the 8 quart pan. Curious as to why was the HV pump a big no no??? I am almost done prepping the stock iron head Caddy LT1 for the swap I am not going to swap over any of the parts from the Trans AM LT!