gvincent

Looking sweet Clive!, My project is moving slowly had a hiccup, my son wanted the 95 Formula so I had to find another one, started stripping it yesterday, The Z is ready for the motor, Painting the engine bay in 2 weeks, final welding this weekend. Greg

Nope, the shaft is too long. I already researched this quite a bit, do a search and you will find all the info on it. Greg

Anywhere in the Boston/Providence area that won't rip you off and are reasonable? Thank god the insurance paid to have my truck repaired, I had to bring it back for a bug in the clearcoat, orande peel, and make them re-paint it a second time and it still is not that good of a job, $1800 for the drivers door, two-tone silver and black and the ext cab drivers side, minor parking lot damage across both panels. Alot of money I wouldn't of paid for 2 panels 2 colors. Greg

Yeah, check the stickie that John put together here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512 and here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 I think it is 87 model year after July although some say March??, I would go with July to be sure

zfan, if you come across another CLSD R-200 let me know, Wrecking yards up here in the rusty northeast generally don't have anything more that a dozen years old. (;-((

One of those newer center console lids for Z cars with cup holders! I want one! I can't sue McDonalds for burning my nuts with their hot coffee, it's been done already. Greg

Thanks Mike, I am stock piling all the parts I need and this is on the list. I start stripping the 95 Trans-Am LT1-T56 this weekend! Yahooo Finally! Here is a pic of the part I ordered. I'll let everybody know if it works out. Thanks, Greg

Thanks, 260Mopar, I was afraid I screwed up by wanting to get the bare metal covered right away and spraying it with rustoleum which is all I had laying around at the time. I had nightmares of paint chips flaking off in a couple of months exposing the bare metal again! I had this happen to me on my other Z car, I must of prepped the fender wrong or used the wrong type of primer But after sanding and applying Bondo to a fender a few years ago I sprayed primer on a fender and sanded some more and sprayed again. The ca sat for 6 months in the garage and I noticed one day that the primer had a couple of cracks and so I poked at it and it chipped of where I had sanded down to bare metal. Apparently I didn't use a metal etching primer but a standard sandable build primer. so now I know I need 2 types of primer when bare metal is exposed metal etching first then proceed with regular sandable build primer. Thanks, Greg

I apologize for double posting this question, I posted it in this thread a couple of days ago: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120696&page=2 I am going to use the Dupli-color system to paint my engine bay but here is my question. I sprayed Rustoleum rust colored primer on some sheet metal repairs I did in the engine bay and also sprayed some other areas in the bay as well. Should I sand this off and hit it with the Dupli-Color primer or do you think it is safe to just primer right over the Rustoleum primer? I can't remember if I saw it posted somewhere if using Rustoleum primer was a big NONO! RacerX?? Ledphoot What do all you paint/body experts think? Thanks, Greg

So I guess this is the right one?? LT1/T56 guys?? Thanks, Greg

Twin Turbo Propane Tanks!!! WOOOHOOOO! Where's the ribs??? Awesome!

I think I found one at Summit Racing. It is made by Coni-Seal part #CNS-SC126869 it says aluminum so If nobody chimes in I am going to order this one, It's only $33.99 The part number is close to to the Wagner # F126969??? Thanks, Greg

I am going to use the Dupli-color system to paint my engine bay but here is my question. I sprayed Rustoleum rust colored primer on some sheet metal repairs I did in the engine bay and also sprayed some other areas as well. Should I sand this off and hit it with the Dupli-Color primer or do you think it is safe to just primer right over the Rustoleum?

After much searching on and off this site I have come up with the following numbers and manufacutrers, the only problem is when I look at the part # online it looks plastic. Can anybody verify any of these part numbers as being the METAL T5 slave cylinder? Raybestos SC37821 Bendix or Brake Ware 10380 Wagner F126869 Dorman CS37821 Thanks, Greg

What is the metal T5 slave part # anybody have this info? I looked at Auto Zone online and they are all the plastic ones from what I can tell. I have a 1995 LT1/T56 and will be getting the Tildon 7/8 master that everyone on this site seems to prefer but I would like to use the Metal T5 slave instead of the plastic one. jbc3 any problems so far with the stock T56 slave setup you modified and how did you bleed it? I might just go that route if it is cheaper and works as well as the T5 slave.

Well said Jon, I also grew up in Agoura/Westlake and know the canyon roads that jon talks about extremely well, I am extremely lucky to be alive after several wrecks where I was a passenger and many near misses as a driver. I have talked about this with Jon off line a couple of times and boy when you think back we were really stupid and luckily we didn't kill ourselves or anybody else. I am going back there this summer sometime for my 35th High School reunion and no doubt the Agoura HS parking lot runs through Encinal to Zuma 7 will come up during a conversation sometime during the evening and usually the final words are "boy were we F#$%ing stupid or what?" Greg Agoura HS class of 1972.

I never seem to use the right words in my searches! I used "plastic" instead of "Urethane" RacerX I was hoping you would answer this thread and the thread you directed me to is great! I have copied and pasted it into my own Tech library, I hope you don't mind. My spraying skills are pretty good, it is my knowledge of paints and my poor body and prep work skills that need improvement. The best looking cars I have sprayed were cars that I didn't do the body work on () Thanks everybody for your responses. Greg

My son has the other 95 Firebird I bought for my swap and is going to make 1 good car out of the 2 donor cars I bought. The car he is keeping is white but he is taking the good front bumper cover and front fenders from the other donor which is black. Question: what is the proper proceedure for re-painting these plastic parts? Can I just sand them, primer and BC and CC them? Or is there mor to it? He doesn't have much money would the Advanced Auto Parts Quarts or ready spray Duplicolor primer, white and clear coat work? He is not looking for a perfect color match just a close enought white. Thanks, Greg

I'm looking for a good gloss black, I didn't know if the Duplicolor gloss black had a good gloss to it or if I should add clear over a flat black to give it a higher gloss? I'm pretty paint ignorant you can tell. Thanks, Greg

Thanks Mario, I was just checking his feedback of 99.4% so I feel a little better. Anybody else using the MSA Blue springs with Illumina's? Thoughts, comments etc. I only want to change the shocks and springs once if I can. Thanks, Greg

I'm in, can't wait to see the data, the pictures look really cool! I'm all for high speed stability, I used to get nervous when the front end started to float and lift around 125mph when my 78 280Z was running. Now 2 project cars the 76 280/LT1 in underway.

The biggest difference I can see is with the FI Harness, your other harness may be good to swap, the 77 had more relays where the fuseable links are located but that should be easy to figure out. Hope the diagrams helped some. Greg

I will try and send the files to you but usually aol has an email attachment limit that is pretty small if I remember right. I will send them anyway but aol might bounce them back. Let me know if you get them ok. Greg

I have the 77 and 76 manual in pdf but they are about 45Mb each, I also have 75, 77, and 78 wiring diagrams that can be sent by email if you want them. Classic Zcar has some on their website as well. Greg

Georgia Flash, how did it turn out? any pics in the sun? I think I will do my engine bay this way. Should I go with the: Primer+ Gloss Black..or Primer+ Flat Black + Clear Coat Anybody else use this paint yet? Thanks, Greg