gvincent

$129 balanced with all new u-joints and flanges. South Shore Bearing Quincy MA. do great work and also carry the R-200 flange adaptor. Greg

There are some good threads on this already, the T56 from a LT1 motor will bolt right up, you need to use the LT1 flywheel so if your motor is an 86 or later one piece rear main seal you are good to go with the LT1 flywheel clutch and pressure plate. If it is a stroker with a 400 crank then that is a different story. Good score on that T56 Search some more this has been done. Greg

McLeod is way overpriced!!! so is Summit, you can get 2 adaptors here for $19, http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/88965/Russell%20640281 I did and I have a Tilton Master and a Metal T5 slave with bleeder screw on My T56 Greg

Look for any wrecked/parting out LT1 Firebird/Camaro complete, I found one and test drove it before I bought it, I then stripped it and parted out everything. The car cost me $2300 I parted it out, made my money back and another $2300 and still have some parts left, alot of work parting it out but a free tested LT1/T56 with 80K is the only way I could of done my Hybrid. You want the 93-97 T56 if you are bolting up to a first gen SBC, use the LT1 flywheel and clutch if it is a one piece rear seal, there is a couple of threads on this as I almost went 383 stroker but because of it being an externally balanced I couldn't use the Lt1 flywheel My car is all together and I'm into the wiring right now, hoping to fire it up soon. Greg

Awesome Clive! AHH Fast beautiful cars, Beautiful women and being Young!!!!! Well, I'm striving for 2 outa 3, I'm too old for the young part, but don't tell that to my mind, It still thinks I am 24, until I look in the mirror. The swap is getting there, motor is in, being trailered out Sat for more welding etc. I sent you a PM, I will post some progress pics in a couple of days. Thanks, Greg 1976 280Z LT1/T56 R200 CLSD in progress 1978 280Z In need of some body work, Next turbo project!

LT1-280Z thanks for the beginnings, It does sound doable, Although your right sourcing the mechanical parts seems a challenge, wiring a proto board would take a while too. so $300 isn't looking all that bad. Beautiful car by the way! Danno74Z I thought I searched good about 6 months ago on T56 members using the VSS to run a mechanical like the CableX as well as the ECU or going with an AutoMeter electric speedo and dealing with the turn signals, high beam etc. and leaving the VSS to run the ECU and an electric speedo, it seemed at the time like a 2:1 ratio of elec VS mech. I don't remember any posts of members ditching their CableX or JTR MOD to go elec because of VSS issues. I would like to hear more maybe my search back then didn't find any of these posts. Any body running the Abbott CableX and having problems?? I have read plenty on Elec speedo mods and Tach swap and still might consider going that route as the cost is the same, it is just more work. Thanks, Greg

I was going to bite the bullet and go for this one here: http://www.atrol.com/cablex.htm There is one on Ebay all the time for $299 But I would be interested in your gory details I am pretty good with a soldering iron. () Thanks, Greg