OlderThanMe

lets see..Gnose from MSA..flares from MSA...JCR-ish rear fenders with 8" added on the rear...all that and nearly stock size tires. and that color. Just sorta ugly to me. Good craftsmanship but ugly...

I think a s30 with the rear done up 250 GTO style and the front left Z style. I think it would look pretty good. Of course with an air dam and a nice mesh grille and a 240 bumper...

It should be but I don't think that is your problem. Oil does not make an engine get louder per say. listen to teh engine running and say where on the engine it is coming from. Check the water pump as that can make some noise.

Hm. That makes me think. So I could to turbocharge my P30 block and put all the turbo stuff on it? Maybe I could just do that while building F54 block. Haven't heard much at all about doing this to an early block. I basically have a stroked l24...the L26. I have three head bolts that snaped off above the deck surface but I am not sure about my crank's condition. Something had to make that noise I was getting. If the crank is warped it could make a bearing go bad. Here is a vieo of the noise. I stripped the the my engine down to crank, front cover, and block and did not see anything obviously wrong. My wrist pins and connecting rods looked like they had a lot of movement side-to-side (front to rear of engine). I would like over 400hp one day but I may as well just use my current block as JohnC says... I'll get my crank out this week and then have it checked for straightness. It seems as there has been an oiling problem with the #3 cylinder which is what caused my noise problem and the large score mark in the #3 bore.

normal to synthetic...not good. You could have something wrong with the dampner on teh front of the crankshaft. Should just unbolt. Get it checked out by a mechanic.

your not supposed to change oil types...what/where did the noise come from?

they were Jiffy lube employees trying to get people to come in to their store on the back of that pickup. Notice the fake bullet holes down the side of the car...

yep...

Thanks. I was just putting out some random number. I am looking at a LD28 crank and I think flattops would be a little high on compression even with a 2 mm head gasket. I have been reading through my "how to rebuild and modify your nissan ohc engine" book and it has lots of information but is slightly dated. I have also looked at KA24E forged pistons and they can be had for about $550 with wrist pins and rings. The JE pistons with no gap rings are $800 and I think they are worth it.

best 3 of 5... good verse for your car.

I bet yours are actually clean too.

I'll give them a call this weekend.

Well here I go. I am looking at my options for my next engine. I want to stay L series and go turbo. My longblock budget is pretty good to say the least. I want the motor be drivable. Maybe 350hp @~12psi for the street with the ability to go much higher. I have heard things about the F54 block as well as the early 280 block. They are both "stronger"...F54 because of webbing and early N42 because of siamesed cylinders. Anyways here is what I am looking at doing. 3.0 stroker, 8.1:1 or 8.5:1 or lower compression. JE dished pistons or the like (not sure about how much dish), not quite sure about rods. Probably some 2.4 rods for better crank/stroke ratio but I have a set of 2.6/2.8 rods. LD crank. lightening, polishing, magnafluxing, cryo treating..what would be worth my money and what can I do myself? I am pretty open to any head to use. Most likely a holset turbo or a t3/t4 if I can...those are a bit expensive though. I want to have high enough compression to spool early but low enough to where I can run a good bit of boost. Megasquirt, possibly with edis-6, Crank trigger, GN coil pack. Intake? pretty open on that. Exhaust? probably stock manifold until I can have a header built (I am designing one) , 3-3.5" pipe. Right now the slate is wide open. I invite and look forward to sugestions from you. I am about half-way done with the suspension (coilovers and illuminas are in but camber plates and proper top hats are still to come), 11lb Spec flywheel, have a broken in clutch that will hold upto 265 hp... I would like to see different combinations people have used and combos people are thinking of using.

he misspelled the word "you" about as much as he wants for that heap...I bet if you rev it to 5k and drop the clutch it will snap the front end off and the passenger rear strut will come through the strut tower and slam the roof. Then it would be "slammed" and worth more!!! J/K

I don't really want or need the kit...I'll never have a Z that will need that much tire. If I do I'll make a better looking kit. If someone really wants to go buy it maybe a little donation to the "OTM is broke as a joke" fund would be nice for the privledged info... The chassis needs scrapping but all the body panels look in good condition and straight. If anyone wants some louvers..they could be shipped. They would go really well with that 80's air dam...

yeah...but most places want two years of exp. as well. I was told that as well but none will hire at that rate with under two years of experience in that form of welding. Try tigging on aluminium... it is a whole different game. When I do my zig-zag with tig I do it very rapidly. I feel that I can control bead width better that way. You can use lower amperage as well.

now there is more room for her, you, and two friends to go shopping...

I bieleve your car has around 190 stock at the engine. With some mods you can get 320 no problem. Once you get past that you want to rebuild the motor and do forged pistons and balance al the internals. I am looking at doing something simialar to what you are doing. Sometimes you can get some sketchy posts overnight...*glares at Mr. Insane* JessZ you will find out that this is the BEST site for getting information on any high performance motor, unless you are doing a turbo diesel, that goes into a Z. Just if you don't know that already.

diesel mercedes cars doing burnouts.. pretty cool.. When is someone going to put a turbodiesel in a Z?

but do you need the extra 6" of flare over the JCR flare?.. veritech...lol???

Also look up steel supply warehouses. They usually carry that kind of stuff. Also called expanded steel or expanded sheet. You can get a 4'x8' sheet for like $30

hmm...that is one sweet motor..

Justin, What travel pattern are you using?

At ZdayZ Mr. John Stewart and Scott Moschetto and I were having a conversation on what oil they each use. Mr. Stewart said that he used 15w-40 non-synthetic for a diesel engine. He said that it sticks better but I was I don't remember his other reasons. Why do y'all use the 15w-40? I used 10w-40 for a while but changed to 10w-30 and noticed it revved better. thanks OTM

the other side of the country from you... plus the 914s are completely roasted or completely totaled...There is a reason it is a secret...I owed Veritech at least that privileged information...