OlderThanMe

A vh45 has cast-in dry liners. You will need to get new liners installed for any sizeable overbore. I am looking for a VH41 block to use if I can find it for more optimal alternator mounting. Supposedly the VH45's power was rated without the variable timing... Worth another 20 or so hp. The VH41 has the same deck height as the VH45...

I can get up to 2000 grit at the local autozone. NAPA has even higher grit papers...

Rally cars are a lot different than road racing... Springs are longer and softer. Weight transfer to the rear wheels is for better traction on dirt.

Parting out the 260Z... Moving to either a 240Z or a Fairlady Roadster. Keeping the VH45.

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/AaronCouper.htm Britishv8.org is like HybridZ for the brits and their sports cars! Speechless!

Check out this link, all about the works rally cars. http://www.z-point.nl/

What about at the level of the console so that you can use the rubber sealing boot underneath?

Go to www.zclub.net It is a UK Z club and they have a rally section in the forums... They do more rally stuff than we do in the states. OR-JO, Is that your video? Pretty cool. found this vid of a tarmac rally Z:

Also looks like a guy put a Z32 R200V diff into an R200A(front diff) with the front diff ring gear. I like how Nissans are like legos. LOL

LeX If you need a decent shell...Or clean VIN plates with bill of sale... Let me know LOL.

That is one of the cleanest 240sx engine bays that I have ever seen! Is it going to be a street car(emissions) or a track/race car?

A C200 ring gear from a Nissan pickup(solid axle) is the same NISMO part number as a regular R200 ring gear. They are also much higher gear ratios for you N/A guys, up to 4.875:1. I wonder if a C200 LSD differential will fit into a R200? Doubt it. Info HERE

Copied from http://www.acrylic-designs.com/plastic_FAQ's.htm I underlined part of it... Andrea writes, Hi I'm trying to bend a thin sheet of acrylic into a wavy shape at home any suggestions on how to do this? First of all let me give you little background on forming plastics in general. As acrylic plastic heats, it shrinks. approximately 1/4 of an inch per foot in cast acrylic. Extruded acrylic shrinks one way and can expand the other. You should test a piece if length is critical or be prepared trim the length after forming. Acrylic plastic becomes flexible at around 280 degrees. You should set your oven at 350 to 400 degrees. It will take 2 to 8 minutes to heat depending on actual temperature, thickness of material and what you place the plastic on to heat. If you need to have an exact shape for the part you want you will need to create a form or mold. This can be any smooth surface. I have used glasses, bowls, cups, aluminum cans, about anything I have laying around that can be close to the shape I want. We use Formica pieces, cardboard tubes or any firm flexible surface to make larger curved parts. Sometimes, with small pieces, you can just use gloves to hold it. Another important thing to remember is that when the sheet is flexible, it will get "mark off" from any surface it comes into contact with. We use cotton flannel to cover the surface of our form. Glass is often smooth enough by itself. Dust particles will leave imprints. The plastic should be put into the oven on a piece of smooth hardboard, Formica, or cardboard. Corrugated cardboard will not burn at these temperatures in 15 minutes. Keep it away from elements or flame and don't put it in until the oven is hot. Use reasonable caution. I have used aluminum foil in a pinch but it tends to stick. You can take the plastic out of the oven on the board, or carefully cradle it out with gloves. It will be hot so gloves need to be worn. You can get a cheep $3.00 to $5.00 pair of leather gloves at a hardware store. Try not to grab it with your fingers as you will leave imprints.

I've had enough newbs poo-poo my ideas that I figured instead of having to hear that junk that I'll just do it first and see what the input is afterward.

And oil clearances?? How high do you rev it?

How about y'all stop bickering and actually weigh some engines... Obviously the VH45 is going to be heavier...bigger turbos, more crank, more head material, etc. Complete VH45 cylinder head with VTC and cam gears (no valve cover, front cover, VTC actuator, or manifolds): 56.7 pounds. I'll get a weight on a fully dressed head soon with head bolts and all. VH45 crankshaft with the three front gears and the key (two gears for timing chains and one for the chain driven oil pump) but no main bolt or dampner: 52.6 pounds Will get another weight with dampner and main bolt soon. OTM... [Rant] Good grief this thread almost looks like a ricer forum. And I'm not going to weight the 70~ish pounds of intake and emissions junk that isn't required for the engine to run. I'll even weigh the wiring harness (about 12 pounds...) Reminds me of.. +20 HP for muffler, +30HP for exhaust pipe, +20HP for air filter, +25HP spark plugs, +30HP cold air intake, +an extra 5HP that got lost somewhere... = Lambo beating, Ferrari crushing N/A Honda! Stupid. And remember that a VH45DE(TT) at the same boost level as a VG30DETT is going to be double the horsepower and not puking its guts all over the place. (and if it does break you can get a whole other engine for about the same price as a regrind on an L6 camshaft. Say that about a VG.) [/Rant]

The LD28 doesn't have a regular threaded oil filter mount... It has a weird adapter thing that bolts on.

hehe... We'll have to see. I know that I'm not going to be doing any windows...just yet. Probably just small stuff. I'll post some pics if anything cool comes of it.

Or European... Or Austrailian...

Some don't like it...because it is fat. I, on the other hand like it a lot. I think the car looks good and would much rather drive it(as a street car) than many other comparable exotics. Its not too bad bang for the buck.

That sounds great! Love it!

So maybe I could build a frame out of 2X4's and clamp the plastic piece in there, heat it, and then lay it over the mold by hand with the 2X4 frame. Basically like a cheap hand-held version of those big forming machines. I'll do more reading on it tomorrow. This is great stuff!

LOL... My dreams about the Z usually involve either somethig breaking, causing a wreck, or someone hitting the car...or someone borrowing the car and wrecking it. That is why I am the only person to ever drive my car! lol

It was just another of those internet myths about the 4PSI per point of CR I guess. If compression ratio can be altered enough that it has a considerable gain, it may be worth it (i.e. 10:1 and turbo in an L series). I see detonation as a main obstacle of running a higher CR and thus increasing the effectiveness of each PSI. When you get into high boost on a maxium effort turbo engine many turbos can't handle the pressure that boost puts on them. (unless you have a diesel turbo like a holset that loves 35psi+ of boost) There are guys with VH45's making double(and more) the stock power with the stock 10.2:1 CR cast and coated pistons(flat-top) in a turboed setup. I was just looking at what they have for combustion chamber anti-detonation tools. Obviously the engines aren't related... but there are things that I believe can be carried over from the millions spent in engineering to fight detonation and produce power. I have seen one L28 with a 4 barrel Holley that was at 11.25:1 CR and run on pump 93 octane and the guy was quite hush about his head work which he admitted was severe. All I have heard on here is that 10:1 is about the max for street use on a N/A Z. I will admit that my L6 has never pinged and it has a stock E88 and the L28 crank rods, and L24 pistons. 9.2:1 and run on 87 octane. I keep hearing of the L24 guys getting pinging on a stock L24 but mine has basically the same setup with L28 stroke and have never had any problems even on watery 87 grade. Why? I don't know. I'm trying to get my head around the whole series of chamber events and it is quite complex... The flat-top and squish is a tried and true method for cheaply building a high compression motor. I believe that with a re-engineered design with a particular head and a piston that is custom designed for the particular engine could have much greater posibilities. I have a quick question... What is the angle of the valve centerline to head surface? I'm going to draw up some pistons and a combustion chamber in Solidworks to show my ideas better.

That is some cool stuff! Its $150 for a gallon of clear though... A little prohibitive for my costs. Some of that $50/Gallon would be good though for other custom parts that don't have to be very pretty or are going to be painted.