OlderThanMe

I learned this one the hard way. One day at welding school I went for a water break and came back to start MIG welding and completely forgot my leather jacket. After a minute or so I realized that my arms were feeling warm. Lets just say I had a redneck T-shirt sleeve tan line for 2 months...LOL It went much deeper than any regular sunburn.

So where can one attain a tank engine? How about this 27 liter powered CAR... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85jfBxQP4ZI

Exactly. Very little rotating mass when compared to a 90 degree crankshaft. My 90 degree VH45 crankshaft weighs about 52 pounds. I would expect a flat plane crank for the same engine to weigh about 2/3 the weight because of the reduced need for counter-weights. OTM

You can weld on the car with the gas tank in it. I highly recommend disconnecting the fuel lines that go through the transmission though and even removing them. The last thing you want is a flame thrower under your car. Not true. I have been shocked through my leathers before while TIG welding. You have to watch where your ground cable is hooked up or you can possibly get shocked. Be sure to keep it as close as possible to the area that you are welding. (I do have a college degree in welding and joining technology...) You can never be too safe. OTM

HAHA! Love it!

www.zhome.com has LOTS of info!

I found a free way to host lots of pics on Ebay... I got a free site from www.xanga.com Use the 1Gb of free photo upload storage. For $25/year you get 10GB of upload space. You can easily change picture size in Xanga to better/bigger sizes. I write my Ad like I was posting a blog with pictures and all. When I get it to look good then I hit the HTML button and copy the HTML code. When I list the ad I just paste the HTML in the body of the ad with whatever I designed on the Xanga blog editor. You can list all of the photos that you want for free and can make designs for background etc in Xanga. That reduces my Ebay cost in about half. kills the 15c per photo, gallery costs, etc... Just thought that I'd post my sucess here. OTM

So I have this camera... And its a medical device. I want to get rid of it and maybe make a little money while I'm at it. It is aparently NEW and the manufacturer doesn't have a web site. Here is the problem: Here it is: The CCD: The lens looks to be made in the USA but the base was made in Germany. The Part that says "citation" rotates and I think it is either zoom or focus. Conector inside the bullet: I think it is some sort of endoscope camera without the flexible extension but I'm not sure. How do I legally get rid of this thing other than the trash can? I was going to list it on ebay but they were going to have me fill out some kind of waiver to sell it and blah blah blah.... Any advice? I might be *stuck* with this endoscope...lol OTM

It isn't a factor of the welds breaking. The welds are VERY strong. The problem is the heat affected zone(or HAZ) which is where the base material is reduced in strength. The combination of a very hard area of metal(the weld) next to a weakened area(the HAZ) will cause any break to happen inside the HAZ. If you only plan on using the car on the street, then it may give you some mild crash protection if you get T-boned. The lower horizontal bar will not help you at all though in a side-impact. It will snap off right by the 90* bend next to the weld. The shape overall is fine but just should be made with some proper DOM tubing for safety.

Tony, There are guys using HX40's on their 302 Ford V8's all the way up to 383 SBC's... I am plety sure it is big enough for Frank's "4.2L" motor. Frank, I can't wait to see this engine up and running! Be sure to make videos!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKyP19ky_W0

From what I have read you may have to relocate the turbos to clear the frame rails and steering shaft. You can probable just build extensions off of the stock headers...Or mount a single big turbo.

Mopar69, I like your new name: Challenger.

I like the VG33 in my Frontier. Makes max torque at 2200RPMs. 500 horsepower hould be easy with the proper fuel system and turbo!

Nice one Alex!

... Lol Paul...

That is pretty cool!

It is a Craftsman... and the letters/numbers "VH45DE" is the end-all for any performance upgrade...

There aren't many 4 cylinder engines with 112mm bore spacing. VW/Porsche cranks use 112mm bore spacing but they are a flat 4, not I4. (VW aircooled type 1) That makes me think of a DOHC VTC air/water cooled VW type 1 using some cut up VH45 heads but I digress...

I like the Imperial Jade mica and the P-car black.

An HX40 would be perfect. It would come on hard boost around 3800-4000+ RPMS on a 2.8L. It came on an 8.3 liter diesel...

Gandalf?

GnoseZ, If I recall correctly you had a BRE style rear spoiler back at Fontana Village in 07. Are you going to retain it? Are you going to make ducts to your brakes through the lower chin or through the main radiator duct?

Well I thought that I'd post about my thoughts for an aerodynamic first gen Z car. The goal for this theoretical car: 1. Street legal (lights, signals, wipers, etc...) and feasibly driveable for around town use. 2. Provide ample downforce in the 70-140MPH range. 3. Reduce drag to a minimal amount to increase the effectiveness of horsepower when a car is being run in a category with limited engine work. 4. Still look like a Z car when finished (no radical roof, front end, or rear end changes that alter the personality of the car) 5. Be affordable for most people (body shaping under $4,000 for DIY in a garage) I believe that the G-nose is an excellent starting point for front end enhancements but not the end-all "fix" to the lift/drag problem. In fact a regular Gnose may even make the lift problem worse without an air dam by acting as a funnel to cram air under the car. Here is an initial sketch that I never finished because I changed my mind about some things. (never erase designs...they could be good to look back upon) Now I do have some alterations that I will make to this design. The front end seems very good for a top speed car but may not provide adequate cooling and venting for a track/street car. After watching NASCAR for several hours and looking at the high downforce/low drag/high cooling concepts I have a few new front end ideas. I will address issues such as underbody airflow, wheelwell problems, front end treatments, hatch work, and other treatments to the car that will improve aerodynamics but not go too heavily into $$$$. Note, I am a Mecanical Engineering student so I am still working my head around many of these subjects but I have put many hours into reading about aerodynamics just so I could apply this to my aspirations to be a good all-around engineer. OTM

Come on dude! What does that mean!?! I don't sell new hosets... I could care less if you buy a "new" Chinese turbo. I would rather you have a nice used unit instead and it actually last. I just find nice used turbos for people. I'm slowly getting out of part sourcing by 90%... So I'm not pushing my services for any reason.