OlderThanMe

So would I just be able to use a hot air gun to form the plastic over the male mold? (like a hair dryer on steroids...) I don't want to transfer any fingerprints or woodgrain onto the plastic. I'll get some materials and play with it some.

If you have one of the turbos with two V-bands on the center section...Some of them are bolted so you could use the bolts to mount it pointing way from the turbine housing. Or you could weld a tab onto your downpipe to mount the heat shield...

Prox, That seems odd. Lots of articles I have read about V8 cylinder heads is about adding swirl to the intake tract into the chamber. If the vortex generator idea doesn't work then it doesn't work... It was just a passing idea that I had and might experiment with on the L series test mule that I'm getting the parts for.

For some reason I like squish...Your setup works very well though... LOL I think that I'm trying to figure out how to increase compression on a turbo motor so that boost has more of an effect. Somewhere I read that every point of compression is worth about 4psi that you don't need to boost to get the same power level. That is just hear-say though and I haven't seen any hard evidence of actual power levels.

I have been looking at how to form thicker clear plastics with compound bends (headlight covers and other stuff). Here is some info that I have found. Philco forum post on thin plastics Hobbiest vacuum forming: www.warmplastic.com Another very good page on DIY vacuum forming I don't think I want to do vacuum forming... I want to use thicker plastic(like 1/8"-1/4" thick) and be able to form it over a mold. Any ideas? *edit* Inspiration Ferrari:

I don't think compari ng an SBC to an L6 is that great of a comparison but... There is a reason why our L6 engines are so detonation prone. I am trying to figure out what the reason for the detonation is. My theory is that the narrow band of .050"+ piston to head clearance is the cause of detonation. The one thing about the sharp edges is that Nissan and other OEM's had shar edges in their high comression(10:1 +) engines. They had radiuses elsewhere but not on the quench to non-quench areas. 10.2:1 VH45 qench pad lip measures .055" from quench pad to the pent-roof combustion chamber: I have seen this lip on other modern import cylinder heads laying around at the junkyard... *edit* With a piston that has a smaller combustion chamber in both the head and the piston, the flame travels less and travels the same amount of time before reaching the different areas of the chamber to push the piston down. This is why I said that I believe a sphere is the best for COMBUSTION. Flame makes impact on all combustion chamber surfaces at about the same time. With that said we can't have sphere for a combustion chamber. We have a peanut(in the L series) or a wedge (or something in-between like the N42). What I am thinking is having a piston that is domed on the intake side (possibly creating more vacuum directly under the intake valve when it opens...increasing VE) and have a big dish on the exhaust side for a more spherical combustion chamber. Basically what Daeron's picture but also squished down to just on the exhust side.

umm... biggest isn't really best. You have to count pressure loss and what you are willing to take in return for cool air. I suggest getting the book "Maximum boost" if you already haven't.

That won't work... Non-tech posts don't count toward your blue bar...

Mine is just routed to the crossover tube inbetween the SU intake manifolds. No valve at all.

I'd try to get maximum backspacing first and then figure out how wide of a tire you want to run and size the rim from there. 4" is safe on stock struts, 4.5" is close(more narrow tires) 5" is safe on coilovers and 5.5" is close. For the most part on 70-early 74 models... BTW it isn't likely that your 235/60r15 rear tires will clear the stock fenders. Why the narrow front wheels? Drag racing? You are probably going to want wider tires for the front or I see a lot of understeer in the car's future... Good luck!

Driftn280zxt, Love the drawing! Keep it coming! Maybe you could post it in the main drawings thread I had going a while back? It was rumored that this car was AWD because of the dyno it is on... But if you look at the strut through the headlight hole and the centerline of the wheel it probably can't be AWD. stock strut? Love the bodywork though. Brings some good ideas into play.

Dang I've got some more posting to do before my blue bar moves again...

Don't get Ron started on autocrossing...LOL

I'd be somewhat worried about a lack in torque. I drove my Z with just an open header and it had almost no power at all! later that day with the exhaust mouted it had all of its torque back... I do like the exhaust though. I have been considering having a wastegate exhaust right there.

Agreed! The guy that spanks Z32's with his old rustoleum painted turbo Z!! That would be great! YEEEEEHHAAAWWWWWW!!

Somewhere on here somebody posed that it was a buick stage 2. Not just any buick V6!

Hey guys, I am looking to get my aluminum block cleaned to a bright surface. I cleaned the top with engine degreaser and toothbrush and then hit it with the pressure washer and ended up with this: I also want to clean the internal parts like the main caps and girdle... Its fairly clean but not clean enough to powdercoat. It was all full of this thick black goo in all of the reinforcement areas. Probably 5 pounds worth. The local machine shop only bakes engines and started blabbing about the EPA and restrictions on hot-tanking. I don't really know of many other ways to clean the thing and don't think baking would help very much. I want to clean the inside of the block too and it is stained pretty dark. You can see all of the areas that were fairly resistant to cleaning. When I cleaned my L26 for powdercoating I just used a media blaster and turned 2003Z's back yard into a black beach... Not that great of an idea. Any input? I'd like to be able to do this myself... Maybe I should just polish the motor to a mirror finish? LOL

Yeah that rebuild kit is for the late 240Z/260z SUs. Autozone doesn't really have the best know-how on Z cars. I bought some rear shoes for my stock drums and they were an inch too big. When I took them back they said that I probably had some smaller racing drum brakes!?!?!?!?! Yeah right. They eventually gave me my money back though and I got the high performance shoes from MSA.

Mae sure that your driveshaft is tight, universal joints are good, antifreeze, oil, hubs greased, all the suspension is tight, etc...Basically maintained. I had my driveshaft bolts loosen once and it started vibrating really bad at 75mph. I was able to get to a gas station withing 2 miles and backed onto the curb to get to the diff since I didn't want to have to jack the car up. I only had 4" of ground clearance too! LOL

I thought I'd post some of my favorite racing videos... The "Drift King" Driving a Nissan R92CP powered by I believe the VRH35Z engine. http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=Wo1aWqD_2UU R90CK @ 1.8 bar boost and 1200hp (talk about speed!!!!) http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=6lMItc4cy8U GTZilla GT2 z car Group B vid Lancia Delta S4 twincharged I'll post some others up later...

I agree! Its worth it to see BIG-Phil going from fast to double the speed limit in like 5 seconds!

Dang!!!!

Nissan did not use their stock V8 blocks in high-end motorsports. They may be similar and work with a 180 degree crankshaft from a Nissan racing V8, but not the same block. The VH45/VH41 block has a full skirt over the crankshaft where as most of the Nissan flat-plane motors had a lower girdle that was combined with the main caps with no skirt whatsoever. I believe that the rotating assembly may be compatable between them but that is about it. I'm not dogging the VH. Just putting correct info out there. A VH45 block/crank should be able to hold 1000+ horsepower with appropriate upgraded studs, connecting rods, pistons, bigger bore sleeves, re-worked heads, etc...

HAHA! Never seen this before!

Oh.. Duh LOL