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Everything posted by OlderThanMe
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Big dodge truck, driving on the right hand side of the road, and signs... Definitely in the USA. The closest thing to that I have seen is the tail of the dragon... Except all in 2nd gear! I was able too keep up to some boosted Z33's and G35s with the 944 on stock boost at very spirited pace. Those guys in the videos are crazy though! Crossing lanes and such.
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Well the only problem I see with a bored 5.0 revving "to the moon" and making 700hp is that I have seen many pictures of 500hp 5.0 ford motors that split the block down the middle and sent parts of a forged crankshaft and connecting rods flying through the block at a dyno'd 500HP and 7000 RPMs. Not really earth shattering power or RPM range for splitting the block IMO. I do like the idea of a Jag V12 if it had forced induction of some kind...
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Olie05, It does work. My truck makes max torque at 2200 RPMs which is nice for acceleration and gas mileage. In the Z I'd have no problem shutting it down to coast and starting it with the clutch but can't do that with my truck since it has all the technology junk. Obviously you stil are burning fuel while gliding in neutral but you are still saving a good amount of fuel. Around town I can coast from 45-40mph for a long time before needing to speed up again. Full tires and good wheel bearings let you coast for a while. Also having more inertia helps long coasts. lso if you have a "warm air" intake is supposedly reduces the amount of fuel going into the engine. Several Geo Metro guys can average in the 65-75 MPG range at decent speeds up to 70MPH. www.ecomodder.com is a good forum to read ocassionally if you can bypass their "save the enviroment" arguements. But in a Z, I agree with MJL and Forrest. Who wants to granny drive a Z ?!?!?!?! WOT is SOO fun!
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What is the current dollar to yen ratio? $1 = aprox. 100yen normally right? I'm guessing with the value of the dollar now Japan may have us beat? http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f58810167 That^ is a beautiful header! SWEET! an 8 bolt L28 crankshaft! http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n56073809
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Doc, I'd like to be able to go back into my old posts and change things in my own project thread. Like T.R. said just above. Thanks! Dan
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When you say 1.5-2.0 BAR (we use a decimal in the states rather than a comma) do you mean absolute or relative? If you mean absolute then why not use a stock turbo engine? If relative then your ring lands won't be nearly thick enough to be durable with only a 26mm pin height and you can expect to pop those ring lands the first time you detonate. The lowest OEM Nissan pin height that I have heard of is 32mm in the VH45 engine and that is pushing it. I just don't want you to build an engine that you invest a lot of money in and something goes wrong with it. You can build it like however you want but I, and others too, would most likely suggest that you keep strength in the pistons rather than going for a slightly better rod/stroke ratio.
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I've bitten the HybridZ, non-purist, block of cheese. Be it rotten or not... Planning as in when I gather all the parts I'll start drawing up plans and gathering specific tools to do the job. When I get my z finished in about 2-3 years then I'll be ready to start building with the parts that I have around/gathered. I guess it would just carry the styling of the R380 over into the new design utilizing modern suspension, chassis, and driveline componets. My Z will look ~something~ like a Z when I'm done... but the bodywork and underpinnings are my expression of what I enjoy as a high performance automobile. Not really going for an exact replica, but rather something to use for my own pleasure and enjoyment. I guess it is like art where I can express myself in a certain manner and not feel bad about deviating from a certain "exactness" to an original. Choice of the L6: Well, 1. They are laying around all over the place and are easy to get parts for. 2: They can go pretty well for the amount of money put into them. 3: Easily modified(decent aftermarket) and I already have a lot of related parts laying around. 4: The great sound of a tripple carbed L6 right behind my head gives me chills... Thanks for the information Alan! BTW... I did live in Japan for 18 months when I was a kid and I remember watching some of the kids programs on NHK.
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$228 LD28 crank on ebay. 15 minutes left!!!
OlderThanMe replied to OlderThanMe's topic in Non Tech Board
I've heard that Nissan is liquidating their supply of old Z parts. You can find hundreds of these parts on Ebay right now. -
I'd like it if we were given admin capabilities over our own thread in the builds/project section. That or just the ability to go back and edit posts in that forum only. Is that possible? Thanks Admins for keeping this forum great! OTM/Dan
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Once my Z has AWD I'll jack up the coilovers and hit some mud pits with some cheap used SUV tires...LOL I would too...LOL!! That is the scary part! Just un-bolt the air-dam and put on a skid plate.
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Agreed. I was thinking of using either a high performance VW-based Mendeola tranny or using some Porsche transaxle(Boxter, 944, 914?). Suspension would probably be double control arms with coilovers blah blah... The main thing I'd want to do is make the body look as close as possible as I'm not really concerned about keeping the under-pinnings original but I really like the body shape. I don't know if a Z windshield would look right, might be too wide. I'd probably take the chance to clean up the aerodynamics with a mild air-dam and maybe a little spoiler on the hatch/engine cover. The Prince R381 was powered by a 5.5 liter Chevy motor... hehe. I still prefer the N/A tripple weber'd (or ITB'd) L6 for the SUPERIOR sound qualities that it offers. BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPAPAPAPAPAP!!!
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Olderthanme's early 260 worklog(run 56k!!!)
OlderThanMe replied to OlderThanMe's topic in Miscellaneous Tech
Broke my finger when I dropped teh VH45 torque converter on it. Broke on the tip right behind the finger nail. Got an L28ET exhaust manifold that I'm going to practice porting on. May even build a whole turbo setup including head, turbo, intake manifold, intercooler piping, etc... Who knows. Anyway I'm going to try to get the VH on the engine stand in the next couple days with 1.5 hands. -
Veritech-Z has this N42 closed chamber cylinder head with round exhaust ports. Exhaust ports look like they could have been square at one time with the round liner/disc mounted in over it? It looks like the quench pads are flush...not sure though. Doesn't the regular N42 have a wedge shaped chamber similar to the E88 chamber? *edit*never mind that last comment. Blue72 answered my question below.*edit*
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How about *first guy with huge injectors on a stock engine* award for Phil? How does the car idle with those HUGE injectors?
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Not mine but a last minute heads up... EBAY LINK
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Show your Z car sketches/drawings/ideas/off-the-wall stuff
OlderThanMe replied to OlderThanMe's topic in Body Kits & Paint
Heck yeah driftn28zxt! This thread is an anything goes kind of thread. Concepts, ideas, pics of parts on other cars that would be cool on a Z, etc... Feel free to post them up! I really like the first and last sketches that you did of the S130! I'd drive it!!! -
BMW has their X-drive system but it looks like it has a driver side T-case...and lots of electronics. Plus getting your hands on a BMW AWD setup wouldn't be very fun or easy on the pocket. *edit* I'm still searching around for front engine RWD based AWD setups... not much out there away from Nissan that would be cheap or readily available.
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Raami, Umm... 140mm LD28 rods are WAY too long to use with an L24 or L28 crankshaft. Even using a SUPER SMALL piston pin height of 32mm, LD28 rods, and L28 crankshaft the piston will protrude 3.65mm above the deck. Unless you use either the LD28 block or an L20A crankshaft then I suggest not using LD28 rods or the engine will not work
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There are a couple rebuild kits that I have seen for the VH/VG trany to take up to 600hp which would be quite nice if manually shifted. I read somewhere that this tranny has an 11-15% power loss which really isn't too bad for a slush bucket. Couldn't an AWD transfer case just be divorce mounted behind the tranny to make things easier to fabricate/mount? Just build a little subframe to mount the T-case to and tie it into the frame rails and rear subframe to reduce flex.
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I usually got 8-12 mpg driving my Z. Sometimes I would be good and get 17-19MPG but what's the fun in that? WOT sounds SOO good!
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Clifton, You know that the RB AWD trans fits right in the Z32 bellhousing right? Mazworks adapter on the Z32 bellhousing to mate to your VH45, stick the RB AWD tranny (normally thrown away for US motor swaps) into the VG bellhousing, and BOOM! AWD VH45 with a clutch! You can just cobble together a bunch of parts from different cars and make it fit better than just transplanting some other front end. I like the nissan truck front end as it has gear ratios that can be matched easily to the rear diff. A ring gear from a "C200" nissan live axle is the same part number as the R200 ring gear so they can be swapped out easily. *edit* I don't like staying with Nissan parts for no reason... They are quite durable for the power levels they are run at stock. VG transmissions have a safety factor of well over 2! The VH45 block seems to have a safety factor of over 3.0! The L series engines seem to have a safety factor of over 4.0!!!(!!!!!) For those of you that aren't an engineer, Safety factor is design stress over yield stress. so... if the VH45 block has a safety factor of 3.0 and stock horsepower is 300(to make it easy...), then 900 horsepower would get you into the area where you would be stressing the materials to possible failure. Cast pistons usually have a S.F. of around 1.75-2.5 (my made-up numbers..) which means they would be a limiting factor for maximum power output. Forged pistons have a much higher safety factor which makes them more appealing even though there are downsides to them.
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Pulse and glide... It helps to inflate the tires to the max limit on the sidewall to reduce rolling resistance so you can glide more. For my truck it only really works at speeds under 60MPH because the aerodynamics are HORRID. Just gas it as lightly as possible to get up the hills and coast down. Or just pulse the drivetrain as few times as possible to maintain a good speed on flat ground. It really is un-necessary to stay on the pedal all the time. Its much easier if you have a manual transmission...
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For a low-buck dual engine setup some of y'all may have seen this: www.durocco.com as it was posted a while back. Perfect for the guy with a welder and an extra drivetrain and time. I would think that a DSM AWD setup would be cool and light. (albiet fragile) Just use an R180 out back...
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Anyone here that plays in the stock market?
OlderThanMe replied to HoustonZ's topic in Non Tech Board
That chart looks familiar... I have been reading one of the books by the IBD (Investors Business Daily) and that perfectly matches the "cup with a handle" pattern that they talk about. Microsoft did the same thing before they had huge growth in Jan of 1990 to January 1991 where the stock nearly doubled. -
You know that you can get about 25% better gas mileage than EPA estimates on a 100% stock car with no voodoo? I got about 23MPG city with my 3.3L Frontier with this last tank. (with tall suspension, big tires, crew cab, hauling heavy stuff from the JY, etc...) I normally get 17-18mpg with a regular driving style. 17mpg city is the EPA standard for my truck. No mods to the car at all and no voodoo juice in the gas tank.