OlderThanMe

I've had it happen... We were at a rest area on the highway and some guys with a Z31 and a Z32 pulled in. While I was talking to the dad with the Z32 the Z31 kid was wondering how I got my old Z so "slammed" to the ground. LOL With 26" tall tires and 4" of ground clearance it is hard to see my coilovers under there.

So you may have to get a different bottom end for the car or rebuild... The fact that a turboed car is using an E31 head is boggling me. Those pistons must have some serious dish to reduce the CR to a usable level.

Wow... Nice work!

I'm going hybrid now... v8. I'm fed up with this motor and don't want to spend another 12 hours pulling the tranny and flywheel if it will be coming out anyway for a completely different engine.

Interesting... Did a murder happen inside it or something?? lol Great find!!

Wow! That looks great! I almost picked up an LT1 at the local yard... They look great in a Z and can you say hood clearance!!! IMO the intake looks better than an LS1 intake. Grats! OTM

well they are directed into a log manifold and not individually to a set of cylinders so the air/fuel mixture should be somewhat equally mixed between cylinders. If you have a couple extra SUs it could work...

hmm... I have had this happen with 2 different dampners. I had it happen with my old one with very little rubber left and then I replaced it with one off a low mile 240z in the junkyard that had the rubber in perfect condition. I haven't revved much over 6000 since getting this motor back together. I hit 6500 the last time I drove it and that was the highest it has been... TimZ: They are original flywheel bolts that held in the stock flywheel. I'll check the crank on teardown. Hairline cranks sound scary. About 2 years ago I blew out a tranny gear selector fork retaining pin and the tranny went into neutral when I tried to shift, dropped clutch at 5k RPMs and WOT. This was all before the light weight flywheel and clutch. The tach passed 8,000 RPMs for around a second or two. I have been worried about that for a while but it all seemed fine. It didn't blow the head gasket out but it did make a big black cloud (from way rich carbs??) and a little white puff. That is probably what stretched my head bolts and caused three to break off upon disassembly. I noticed a small area around the #5 piston where it looked like some water leaked around the gasket once. TonyD: I just noticed the dowel on the LD28 I am tearing down. Also read it in the "how to modify youd datsun OHC engine" book...

hmm... do you have any pics?

wow... that is pretty beat up. Definitely not really something you want to pull a mold from??

Just took this this morning... pretty cool.

That is the problem. I did not have time to order new bolts before I was supposed to have the car running to go to Zdayz. I went from longblock on stand to motor installed in car and almost running back to shortblock in car, then fixed head and back to a running motor all in 5 days. I didn't have time to order new bolts. I am thinking that the flywheel bolts are the only real variable since the crank's threads are fine. This brings the lesson: Don't rush a project and not do it right. Oh well.

Happy birthday and don't let Paul look at too many V8, ITB, crossram intake manifolds... I vote for the status of an honorary admin. How about some pictures of ITB's on a VQ for the occasion. and some 351 Cleveland crossram manifold pics... Anyway Happy B-Day to the wife of the rookie Admin! LOL

Thanks for the replies guys! I had this happen the first time I had this flywheel on the car. I then pulled it back apart and mounted it properly to the crank with the criss-cross torqueing and loctite. I ran it the first time about 750 miles before it came loose. This time I have about 80 miles on it and I hear the slight knocking at idle. I am using the spec stage 2+ 225mm clutch with this setup. I know the engine (L26) was rebuilt in the late 80's with some L24 flattop pistons and that was about it. The flywheel was an original heavy flywheel. All I did was replace the flywheel/clutch kit with the Spec stuff. That is $800 of stuff in my tranny right now... One of the 225mm PP to flywheel threads stripped the first 2 threads out of the flywheel and I just put extra loctite on that. The threads for the PP go all the way through the flywheel FWIW. The clutch is way awesome as it grabs well and does not shutter at all. It is a full organic sprung disc with the stage 3 PP. (making it a stage 2+ AFAIK) Perfect clutch for a way more powerful N/A motor as it is rated to 260 horsepower. (I'm lucky if I am making 140 at the flywheel at 9.2:1) I did not have this problem on initial startup as I listened for the noise before driving it any. I want to know what this was before I start doing my VH45. Would wiring the heads of the bolts work to keep them from backing out? I figured I'd blow this motor up but not this soon... I want learn how to get this right before building an expensive motor. Thanks! OTM

I'm going to go get a VH45DE this week for around $140 at the local u-pull-it JY. I'm going to drop it in my Z's engine bay and see what I have to deal with as far as space goes. This should be fun!!

Hey All... I am running an 11lb SPEC flywheel. I installed the flywheel back in early May and torqued the bolts in stages in a criss-cross pattern just like the haynes book says. I also used Loctite Red threadlocker. I have about 200 miles on the motor since putting it all together and I am hearing the flywheel rattling at idle. I drove the car for about 25 miles with some 2-6k RPM pulls. Nothing crazy. When I got home I noticed a rattling noise. I thought I hadn't tightened a rocker arm down hard enough but it wasn't that. The sound was coming from the bellhousing. At this point I am just going to pull everything out and part out the motor. I'm just wondering what caused this??? Are the bolts just old and loosening because of that?

I'm interested. Do you have bigger pics? Looks cool!

Hey guys... I'm going to pick up a VH45DE sometime this week. I'm having a hard time deciding on what tranny to hook to it though. I could do a Z32 tranny with adapter for the cost of a T56 tranny alone. The T56 is a better tranny but it costs way more and I don't think there are any guys making the adaptor plate/spacer to order right now. Mazworx (sp?) has the VH45DE-Z32 tranny adapter with machining for $450. The local u-pull-it has a 91 VH45 for like $200 with a warranty. If it is too far gone when opening it up I can exchange it with the other VH45 at the yard. The plan is to get it in the car and running and then once the swap is done and the car drives to pull the motor, build with 8.x:1 compression pistons and begin some turbo headers. G2G! OTM/Dan

I just measured a 1983 LD28 intake that I have and the #3 and #4 intake runners neck down to 33.3mm at 15mm back into the runner away from the cylinder head. The others go down to 33.9mm to 34mm. At the edge of the runner next to the engine they flare out close to 36mm. Just thought I would put that out there. OTM

Yep that is an average going price. I sold one to a member here for around that price plus shipping. Some times you have to buy the whole motor just to get the crankshaft and have to offset the cost.

Cingular What do you like: body work, suspension work, or drivetrain work?

There was a skyline with a 4 cylinder? What motor was that?

Well you would have to convert it to rear sump oiling...That involves either drilling the rear oil pickup and blocking off the front one or making a long oil pickup tube and modify the oil pan.

$330 right now. HERE it is. Just wanted to put it out there if anybody was looking for one. 13 hours left.

What is welded on the front of the timing sproket area on the valve cover? It is definitely carburated from the low pressure slip-on gas lines from the FPR. Interesting either way.