OlderThanMe

Webbing= good cooling for hotter temps... great for an 86-87mm bore. N42= more strength which is good for resisting blowby.

well between the two choices of an F54 or N42... I'd rather have the extra cylinder wall of the N42 with a monster overbore. Stock for stock the F54 wins because of it's supposed cooling ability. If you want to go really big and wet sleeve the block it doesn't really matter what block you use. A P30 block would even work for that. But in the case of a hot street/race N/A L28 running an 89mm bore and high compression I'd rather have the cylinder wall thickness and deal with the heating issues by other means. That is just my thinking. I'd like to hear what you have to say on the subject. Personally I'd take my LD28 block, install wet sleeves with flats cut on the sides and sport a 92mm bore... That is just me though. An un-welded 3.3 L6... Dan

If you can find an MN47 then go for it!

If you don't know the crankshaft and connecting rods are already forged in all of the L series engines. Just some forged pistons isall that is needed. "Big-Phil" hit 20PSI of boost with a HY35W turbo on some stock turbo pistons in an N42(IIRC) non turbo block before the pistons let go(with one audible detonation). 15 PSI would probably be safe with the proper aftermarket EMS with a good tune and fuel system. You can look up his videos on youtube... OTM

You are probably looking at $500-$600 for a pair of nice ones. They should be the same part numbers so you may have to take a while of asking around forums and on Evilbay to find a pair of the same model#s. For a nice low mile HY35 (read 20k miles and perfect condition) they go for about $350-$450. You can take your chances with one of those $150 ones but they are usually nasty.

In front is the backup plan if I can't get the top-mount to work. That will be happening in December when I have some free time to pull my L6 stuff. I have a small H1C core Holset but it should give me the aproximate size that I need for checking clearances. There is a 98% chance I WILL be using the AUTO tranny. Yeah yeah I know auto trannies don't go into sportscars but... It will be worth it. TRUST ME! I also plotted the VH45 engine roughly onto an HX40 compressor map. It would be fine for under 5000 RPMS and would spool at around 2600RPMs at about 75%-77% efficient(sp?). The problem is that by the redline I'm not even on the compressor chart. That probably means I'll be using an HX50 or 55 to stay efficient and not blow hot air. UNLESS... I do an HX40 and HX50 setup side by side and some trick valves. That is probably too much work and not enough space... Just a thought. I may end up buying one of those Holset performance Pro52 turbos. The GT4202R is also looking VERY nice...

Cool. I'd like to see some pics! Get that fwd SR for...ummm...converting it for the...umm cough*pulsar*cough cough Z....umm yeah the Z!

Somehow the 2.0 guys don't have a problem getting to 600hp... Why is it so hard to get an L6 to the same power??? HMM. Surely a crossflow DOHC head won't make THAT much of a difference. Drivetrain on that car: really sweet More could be said for the frame and wheel choice though...

Wow.. I made some "interesting" comments in this thread. I'll continue it with a little more...umm... fact. Short story long: I'm abandoning the L6 for this car in favor of a VH45DE(T) Updates on here later. OTM

Not quite sure about the air-air IC yet. Probably going to mount it inside a fender and put a scoop on top of the fender and duct it. I'll be running an air-water intercooler as well to help in the short, super high boost runs. Probably will have an ice chest I can put in for going to the drags or just have a standard radiator for normal use. I'll decide more about that when I get to that road. I just want to get the motor in the car with the turbo headers. Drop_team_z: I am thinking of something like that F350 mount if I can put 1/2 to 2/3 of the turbo under the hood. Thanks for the pics! Hanns: Thank you! I have gone through a 2 year welding program at the local technical school so I know my way around a TIG welder. Now that I am going through a 4 year college for Mech. Engineering I am learning how to design this kind of stuff! Carfan: I don't even think there is enough room under a Z to do a good STS setup. I'm going all out anyway so I'll just keep my turbo in the engine bay... Thanks anyway for the pic! I'll never turn down a pic of a clean turbo installation!

To end the story... I went with a VH45DE from a 1993 Infinity Q45. Hopefully to be installed and then boosted. The big thing with USA market V8's is that you can't throw in forged slugs and be done with the bottom end. The VH45 is all forged except for the pistons. Just what I was looking for!! OTM

I have a really nice N42 block (All bolt holes are great and the bores are at 87mm, "best" choice for a big overbore) that could be used for just such an occasion that I'd let go for cheap. (read $120 delivered to Sunbelt...) I'm like 35 minutes from Sunbelt but have never been there. If you are interested let me know... OTM

Beautiful. I love the way you have built your car with so many "budget" parts but is THE most beautiful widebody Z EVER! Wonderful fabrication! You have been a big inspiration to me and the other kids on here! Big Thanks!! (I'd also like to know how you weld inside the tubes on the collector...from the inside before the outer collector and then just the outer part? ) Dan

The 2 liter DSM guys say that an HX35 with the small housing spools about 250-300 RPMs later than an HY35. a pair of HX35's would be fine. Plus the HX35 can accept an HX40 compressor housing and there are more available turbine housings if you ever need to upgrade. I vote for 2 HX35 turbos. Plus they are WAY easier to get...

Or this??

BEORE YOU CONTINUE... Get this section flat! It looks like you had some dripping up there. Put at least 2 more coats over the affected area once you get it flat.. The rest looks good! nice progress! OTM

Turbomeister, Thank you for your comments! I've watched your startup and burnout/super hard launch video WAY too many times!! I love the sound of that beast of a motor! One thought that came to mind is to put the turbo where the battery normally sits. I have been pondering moving the battery to inside the car sitting on top of the tranny tunnel hugging the firewall. (with a STRONG mount) I'm not going to have any heater in the car and the aluminum dash I fabbed up has plenty of room behind it to hide stuff. Hopefully I can get some pics and measurements in the next few days of what I am thinking. I don't mind not having hood clearance because I can always put a hood bulge/scoop there. I was thinking about cutting away the cowl area and using that space to mount the turbo. The wiper mechanism sits far enough back that it should not interfere with anything. The main problems I see with a front mount is the weight I am hanging out front and running a big single exhaust out of the engine bay. I would like to route the exhaust out of the battery box and down to the side of the car.

Right now I am trying to figure out where I will mount my turbo on my VH45DE. I have no reason to fear cutting on the tranny tunnel, cowl, or inner fenders for this setup. I'd really like to do a top mount with the turbo set like this position: (turbo was sketched with the turbine/compressor spinning the wrong way... the turbo would actually hang over the engine and not toward the cabin) I'd rather stay away from a front mount as I am trying to keep weight away from the outer edges of the car. Since the car is going to be mainly for autox and track days keeping the weight centralized on the car as much as possible is a consideration I am looking at. A bottom mount would be hard as there isn't much room around the steering shaft on the driver's side. I'd also rather not do twin turbos to help keep the cost down. Ideally it would be better for quick spooling but a big single is enough for me. The VH can rev pretty high so I'm not worried about breaking anything by revving higher to get boost. The headers will be made from 10 gauge stainless weld-el's and TIG welded to simplify fabrication. I'd like to hear what y'all think or if you have any suggestions for turbo positioning on a V8. (don't even think STS...) OTM

Heck yeah! My window regulator for the driver's side of my early 260 has been driving me nuts! The window has been down for a year because I didn't want to spend the 5 minutes to get the window up. LOL "Fair weather only" Saving a pound and gaining power windows is sweet! I'll be watching this progress! OTM

What if you did some ITB's that had an iris like a camera or an eye? That would involve a little more engineering and has never been done before as far as I know. Best of luck on your project! OTM/Dan

Go into your user control panel and request entry into the aerotech group. All older members should be able to get in.

Are you sure it is smoke and not condensation? What color is this "smoke"? Also how is the motor set up? What turbo, mods, etc...

I believe you can get a bigger HX35 housing. Aftermarket ones come used for like $100 like on Ebay. I think there is a 18cm^2 housing as well.

Nice! That is a little expensive looking. It looks like it uses 2 TPS sensors? I need my ITB's to be as low profile as possible because of hood clearance and be able to fit a turbo back there on top. Thanks for the pic! Mind you that I have a slim budget because I am going to be buying all my own tools as I go on this build. I have seen MarcG's videos. Very nice (and FAST) Z!

That is sad. There are a LOT of other roads in the area that are just as good or even better than the dragon. I don't like going around turns THAT much. At the end of 6 runs on the dragon the steering wheel from the Porsche was covering my hands and legs in powder. I like the roads with a little more gentle higher speed turns. It is like AutoX vs. a road course LOL. The Hellbender is way more fun and less tiring IMO than just running the dragon a bunch. Especially in the Z without power steering and wide tires...