OlderThanMe

:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:

Ron, Is there color in that photo? Like a teenie weenie little bit?

I bet 385HP.

If your valves are making noise then you can adjust them. You just need some shims, a 14mm wrench, and a 17mm wrench.(IIRC) Doing the valves is about a 45 minute job and just follow the Haynes manual instructions or the FSM(Field Service Manual) if you have access to one. OTM

Licence plates... just old licence plates... like what the cops call in before they pull you over. Those. Actually I'd be down for two. http://www.tigerdude.com/japan/license/pref1962.html

Johnc, I just got a job welding on thick 18 gauge 304SS for custom resturant kitchen tables/sinks and general fabrication so I will be spending lots of time in the 35-55 amp range. These HF $50 helmets are good for the hobbiest or someone in welding classes but mine was going crazy at lower amps in TIG. I have used a buddies 9002X before($275 to $900+ depending on acessories) and it is about half the weight of one the HF helmets which makes a difference at the end of a 8 hour shift. You can see different colors in the arc and weld with the 9002X which can help for low amperage TIG. I have also seen the head strap problem but it should not be too much of a deal if it breaks. Just tape it up as you said. Maybe some pop-rivets... I will still keep my HF helmets for MIG welding on cars and for other people in the garage that want to watch.

They will!!!! We had a rental van when we were in Japan(1992) while the Subaru was being serviced. On the side of this van there were diagrams of the engine and driveline on the OE fender/body graphics! Somewhere I have some pics. I'll have to dig them up. If I recall correctly the van was called a "Bongo"?!? LOL?!?! Sorry for the threadjack... That intake looks great! I hope to be able to model in CAD as well as you, Jeff, in my lifetime.

Well if you are in a welding class then they have it preset to make life easier on you. We were told to read the book and then go setup/play with the machines until we figured it out after we had practiced the technique as a group. LOL www.Millerwelds.com has a cool calculator where you can plug in what wire you are using, what metal, etc... and it will tell you what setting range to use.

Don't worry... the newer ones don't get any better. I went to the local welding supply store and bought one of those little black hats with red trim for $7 and that solved the hair snagging problem and gave me some added spark protection. If your hair is longer then it can also get into the open adjuster of the old helmet which would hurt. The newer version is closed so that helps.

Hey guys... I thought I'd leave a little review for the Harbor Freight auto-darkening $50 welding helmets. I own the older and newer versions and both are "modified". They both have basically the same electronics but the newer version has some improvements but also has some problems. (not electronic problems...) BODIES skinny vs. round shaped We will start with the bodies of the two versions of the helmet. The older version is made of thicker plastic than the newer one. The older version is more narrow than the newer version so it should be easier when you are up under a car welding on a tranny mount, floor pans, or that driveshaft that you are too lazy to replace. The newer helmet is lighter weight than the older helmet but it is bulkier. A problem with the newer helmet is the "shelf" that is right in front of the lens. When welding overhead it catches and holds all of that hot molten slag and sparks. Old helmet "shelf": New helmet "shelf": Melting partially through the newer helmet's upper shelf. The same thing is true with the lower "shelf" at the bottom of the helmet around the neck area. The newer design catches everything where the older design has a thicker and more sloped lower deflector to keep sparks away from your neck. Newer helmet lower shelf: Electronics: NOTE!! These helmets perform poorly when used on TIG under 50 amps! Even on high sensitivity it will start to flicker at around 50-55 amps! They do fine for over 60 amps on TIG and do fine for MIG and SMAW(arc) welding. The view is also plain green. Viewing area is adequate for most welders. Requires no batteries. Keep the front plastic cover clean or the light sensors will be slower to detect light which will hurt your eyes. Old version has all of the electronic functions of the newer helmet. Notice that the shade adjuster is attached with a solid part that is connected to the viewing area. When this older design helmet is dropped sometimes the plastic body will flex and pop off the shade adjustment knob. Also notice the inside of the screen is eaten up a little bit with hot slag that got inside the helmet while I was welding. This causes light spots in the screen. The screen is also held in by plastic clasps or clips. These can go bad over time. This is the newer design. You can see that the shade adjustment knob is now seperately mounted so that the knob won't pop off and shoot across the room. You can also notice that the body of the electronics is held in with a spring now rather than press-fit in. There is also an internal plastic shield to keep sparks off of the inside of the lens. Old helmet screen without protective cover (looks like it can have one but didn't come with one and store had none): New helmet electronics securing spring Headbands: The New style has a bayonet style adjuster which is quite nice and doesn't require much maintaining. The older style is an OPEN adjustable friction style and is horrible. It gets full of slag and spatter and gets hard to adjust. I highly suggest these helmets for anyone that is just welding on their car or just to watch someone else weld. If welding is your JOB or business then this won't be durable enough to last long. Maybe 350 hours of welding time. Personally I am going to be buying a Speedglas 9002X now. My anti-spatter, slag, and spark gear: When wearing it all setup for overhead welding I look like a cross between a midaeval soldier and a post-apocalyptic guy from some movie... I guess you can tell what my favorite brand of welder is too...

I hope you are willing to accept a little advice after a few questions... What model of MIG welder are you using? What size wire? What voltage? It looks good for a beginning welder like yourself. You probably want to slow down by lowering the voltage and wire size for a little while. Practice getting a weld that has smooth sides and doesn't look like a row of tack welds. On the round bar you should be able to put down 5-6 short welds instead of tacks to go completely around the tube (or have someone that you trust rotate the tube while you weld). A row of tack welds won't have the amount of penetration to hold very hard. I think it will hold. The welds look as if they have wetted out decently enough. Just practice face, leg, and toe consistancy with your welds. Side view of your weld: l_ l_ those are the legs. that is the face. the two points where the legs and face meet are the toes. Where the two legs meet is the root. It is common to have the toes cut into the base metal. That just means your ground is in a bad spot or you are angling the MIG gun too far to one side. It takes some time to not do but your welds look good as far as that goes. It does look as if you are running the machine a little hot from the amount of spatter that you have. Try turning your voltage down a little bit. A good practice is to weld a T joint out of some scrap steel (on one side) and then see if you can bash the "T" flat with a "Big Fat Hammer" without the weld or base metal breaking. Looks good and may you have many years of good welding ahead of you!

If you come across any cool license plates...I could use one. late 60's to early 70's model...1969 would be perfect!

Yeah I came SOO close to dropping that spring in my oil pan once. LOL That would be a pain in the rear end to get it. I guess an endoscope camera with a little claw would be very nice.

That seems more RonTyler~esque. Maybe the Doc...

I'd be worried about the tires slipping on the sidewall if they were pumped up too much. I've done some crazy stuff with my Z but not that much...

Would that guarantee mean that head gasket changes and rebuilds need to be assembled by you or just the initial installation?

I do still wear a little hat under the leathers as the leather is protection from only about 95% of the sparks when welding overhead. That just means I'm more suprised when one lands on my ear or back of the neck... Just be sure to keep the reel system inside the welder as clean as possible to keep even tension. After using a 30 Lb spool of MIG wire in a semester the inside of the spooling system was quite dirty and hard to clean out.

If the engine runs fine then someone probably dropped tht spring into the pan and replaced it. To get to the tensioner you have to pull the front cover off of the engine andd the timing chain. From there read your Haynes manual that you bought(right??). If the tensioner is missing the car would be making quite a racket I think.

Buy some extra contact tips for the gun if you didn't get some with the machine. If you are going to be welding under your car put some leather on your helmet to cover your neck and top of your head. I did a whole 10 weeks of overhead ARC welding and I got flat-out sick of being burned. When I took MIG I had all of the protection I needed. Reinforcement/protection made from oiled tool leather. Emergency tape was because slag/molten gobs started to melt the plastic enough that it was showing through the helmet. Time to fix that or just pony up for a nice speedglas. I have had good luck with the Harbor freight helmets so far. One helmet lasts about 750 hours of shop time and probably half that actually welding. The plastic body melted from sparks/molten slag before the lens died for me... I also made a welding apron that works great! Rivets and leather from Tandy Leather Company.

With that kink in it... Timing chain tensioner spring for sure.

I have seen up to a 91.5mm bore on a Japan-built L28... Probably wet-linered. Liners don't cost THAT much for the amount of CCs gained. OTM

Yeah... I had an extra couple inches of rubber below the poly air dam giving me 2.5" of ground clearance at the front. After a drive on the highway at ~75mph a bunch of my added rubber was gone in the middle. Somewhere there are some pics of a Urethane air dam at high speeds buckling down really far. Now if it is installed with bracing and blocking off the open area behind it then it won't flex near as much.

Pretty sure they were made in Japan along with that car. Powered by a plain old 760hp twin turbo VH45DE with a pair of TD06-20G Mitsubishi turbos...

You can get the fiberglass or urethane version. 240hoke has the urethane version like mine but he braced his and painted it. The urethane version without bracing does deform a good bit at speeds over 60MPH.

Welcome to HybridZ! Hope you enjoy your 280Z! Dang... All the roadsters are in California!!! Is the roadster a 67 or 67.5 model? The 67.5 models are super-rare...