OlderThanMe

Is the turbo just oil cooled or is it "water" and oil cooled? It might a Z31 turbo if it is water and oil cooled.

Welcome to HybridZ! You could do a 3.0 turbo... Since the motor would get new pistons, just put in lower compression pistons. You can run it N/A until you get the turbo stuff ready to go on. That is my suggestion. Rebello puts out some pretty sweet motors. Their 3.2 with tripple Webers sounds incredible!

Lol... Crow ain't that bad is it?

I bought my Illuminas from JDMwerks for under $400 and had a good experience with them. I vote Illuminas and coilovers but maybe I'm biased.

It was fun leaving my house every day at 6:30AM when the Z was my daily driver...LOL

TimZ, If that's an RB valve cover then you should just stay with your turbonic L6...

What is that??? Is it really that hard to add 5 letters to make it readable? Check www.racetep.com They carry your desired gasket.

We have had a 96 Explorer 2X4 4.0 that was bought new. 175k miles on the Exploder but on the second tranny. Getting an auto transmission flush at Ford($75) really helps with the first gear slip. The one thing is that it has the COLDEST air conditioning. I measured 45 degree air coming out of the vent on a 90 degree day.

I have the 5 speed in my 04 Frontier with a VG33. Just for some reason I think that a transmission that is for a 200hp truck and can pull 4000+ pounds is going to be a little more beefy than a Z32 trans... If I were to source a VG trans I'd find a low-mile Frontier/Pathfinder transmission rather than a Z32 unit. That is my non-scientific opinion.

2 errors... Capitalization and not "family friendly."

Preach it brother!

I'm looking for a Datsun roadster in GA, TN, SC, or AL. Prefered under a grand ($500 is the ticket). Don't need motor,trans, interior, fenders, or much else. Just a straight body with frame and suspension. Should be a straight rolling roadster. I could care less about rust unless the car is just gone. Anything from 1967-70 is fine with me. OTM

It would be much easier to put an RB26DETT head on an L6 than to build a whole new head. Just block off the oil passages and route oil from the outside of the head. I'd rather spend a grand on a modified RB26 head to work on an L6 than a whole new head. There are already turbo cams available, valvetrain componets, etc... Plus you can use a higher displacememt with an L6 than you can with an RB. (RB 3.0 vs. possible 3.4-3.5 with a max effort L6)

The block would be easy... just copying the pre-designed L6 block and then adding thickness/strength/ribbing to it for the weaker aluminum material. Block girdle integrated etc... The head is going to be the expensive part. Lots of engineering going on there. At $20/hr which is VERY cheap... labor costs for the CAD design of a block will be over a grand. I wouldn't take much less. The head design would cost more with all of the moving componets, cams, etc... If you were to build a one-off motor you would have over $20K into the longblock unless you are the guy on the CAD and CAM with free time and your own machine shop to use for free.

Also if you want to factor in labor for designing the block and then the time in making the molds etc... Nobody is going to drop 4+ grand for an L6 block.

You could do an L28 block... I'd make a hybrid of the two and make some improvements while I was at it. If anyone comes to the point of casting a L block why not just work it over to use an RB26DETT head? Just deal with the timing belt and head oiling issues... Designing and building such an engine would be a one time thing with under 10 blocks made most likely. There just isn't any market to produce these. Also a new cranksaft would be a good idea if you are going all out. I'd want at least a 3.5 liter if I was going to spend the $$,$$$ to build an all-aluminum L6. A 3.5 liter is definitely possible (aluminum block or LD block...) if one has the will and money power to put it together. OTM

Sounds like me. I'd think that the block should be made at the height of an L20B or LD28 to have better rod/stroke ratio but still be able to use the L20B/LD28 timing gear. I have a V07 block, a N42 block, and a P30 block and I have my own copy of solidworks.

The U20 powered roadsters were actually quite powerful. Compares to a 240z... And weighs 400+ pounds less than a Z.

Fabbing up a turbo system is not all that you will have to do. VG30DETT internals are different than VG30DE internals (lower compression for the turbo model) Why would it cost $2k to install the engine? Just pull the old one and stick the new one in. Maybe a weekend event with a couple pals? You really need to search. There aren't as many Z32 guys here as there are S30 and S130 guys.

Twin turbo tank engine making 1600HP. Owned by J.L. himself Driving casket?

The HX35 and HX30 CHRA's are different and will require a different rebuild kit. You can always go to a cummins service dealer and order the rebuild kit for your turbo.

Please use proper grammar. "Has...did" is not proper. Yes you "can" do a NA-TT conversion with a VG30DE but by the time you finish the conversion you could have a perfectly good TT JDM motor with low miles and a lot of hours and money into the project. Seeing as many VG30DETT engines for $1500 as I do it just does not make much sense financially. OTM

The LD block is 19.6mm taller than the L24/L28 height block. The LD28 front cover can be retained if you are going to be using a DIS on the engine. Just hack off the mount for the I.P. and weld on a cover.

I'm not saying that converting a standard V8 is a bad idea... It CAN be done with many off-the-shelf parts. Personally, my Z car passion is to have them for racing and driving for sport. I wouldn't mind having an engine that vibrates that much. But for someone that has their Z for daily driving may not enjoy the vibration. Also with the engine in front of the driver, vibrations seem greater than if the engine is placed behind the driver (ala most Ferrari flat-plane V8 cars). The more stroke that the engine has the more it will vibrate. I consider the reasonable max displacement for a flat-plane V8 to be under five liters. With most domestic V8 engines this means a very short stroke unless you are using a small block variety engine. There is a reason you don't see many 4 cylinder engines over 2.4 liters and I think that vibration is the reason. A V8 is the same but double the displacement. My Dad's 2.5 liter I4 turbo Porsche has some serious idling vibration which is normal but once driving the vibration disappears. A raised idle would help the low-RPM vibration a good bit. OTM

How much of a market is out there for such a kit? A kit with a crankshaft, rods, pistons, cam, upgraded valvetrain, misc parts, etc... would cost quite a bit to manufacture. Big time companies have showed their dis-interest in producing V8 flat-plane cranks. It would be cool though. Especially in a Z! I read on a forum that Scat refused to make a flat plane V8 crank for someone because it would have "too much vibration". Vibration for a flat-plane V8 is 60% more than a standard inline 4 cylinder engine. *edit* DOH! BRAAP got to it first!