OlderThanMe

Or have a friend design/build one for you...Hint Hint. 390 torque is really good! More important IMHO than HP. HP is just torque when related to RPMs...

What I did was take an old drill bit and "hogged out" the rubber until the center fell out. Then it is just a process of cleaning up the inside of the mustache bar. Be sure to cover your face and eyes because that rubber can be nasty when it gets hot from the drill bit.

Great vid!!! We all get screwed on the door to fender gaping...LOL

For the amount of power you seek, more cubes should get to that attainable power with lower stress on the pistons from a lower SCR. The Doc knows his stuff... listen to him(and the other guys).

I guess that I'm just an oaf then. lol :lmao::lmao:

Doesn't convection just mean it has a circulation fan? The heat comes from the microwaves exciting the water molecules in the food to cause the heat...so a fan would just be blowing mildy warm air around? LOL I call a blinker fluid on this one.

DANG! Sorry to see you having that bolt break! My flywheel-crank bolts were backing out but I think the crank is bad. (hairline cracks from an accidential expedition to 8,500+ years ago when the tranny broke)

I think it has been done...one of teh 500HP+ L6 guys was saying how his exhaust pressure was lower than the intake pressure at high RPMs... But for most of us with a "normal" turbo the pre-turbine pressure should be higher than the output from the cold side of the turbo. Think about it, if your turbo has a higher pressure on the intake side wouldn't it normally spin the turbo backwards? AKA surge? I have a feeling that the guys that see lower pressures on the exhaust side see it because of the excess amount of heat being put into the turbo at high RPM/pressure ranges. That way more heat is being turned into energy to spin the turbo than just wind spinning a fan. That is just my limited view though and don't count on it.

But understand that the N/A headers(most of them) have grossly different tube lengths. My L6 square port header tubes range from around 20" to about 27" IIRC. Sure it sounds cool but...yeah.

Pressure in the pre-turbo exhaust is usualy higher than the intake pressure coming out of the turbo... So if you are putting 10PSI on N/A header tubes I think the flimsy tubing would begin to fail with the heat.

I would be wary of putting any backpressure on a thin mild steel tubular header like the MSA ones.... The stock cast manifold can withstand plenty of back pressure(turbo) though with no worries.

Still $3.25 for regular here. I paid $4.65/gal when Katrina hit. Downtown Atlanta gas prices were close to $10/Gal at that time...

That is sorta cool... Using a stock N/A exhaust manifold.

How about a serious case of a dead distributor with a mix of SUs needing rebuilding? My video(look at 40 seconds in...the third afterfire looks to have a hint of flame): It was soo freaking loud inside the car from the "afterfire" that I had temporary hearing impairment after driving the crap... It also blew out/compacted most of the muffler packing which made the car even louder. It was plenty loud already. I even contemplated wearing ear plugs when driving the thing. The video cuts out most of the noise so it sounds more reasonable...but its not.

How about searching the stickies in the body/paint section? HERE you go.

Take out ruler and hold it up against the tube. Should be close enough to tell what size tube it is. Looks tiny. *sings to self* Itsy bitsy spider....

HERE is a post I made on some info that I found on the web about that car... Not quite PORSCHE 944 flares... I have seen a bodykit somewhere that does put 944 style flares on a Z. (Thanks Dan, Reaction Reasearch is it.) That black Z that always comes up on ebay has them I believe.

What does that mean? LOL

Umm... How are you supposed to get your head under that low roofline? Does the door go into the roof like the Ford GT40? It looks impossible to get into. I love the looks of the car though.

He is an engineering student so he's probably busy since we are in a heavy part of the school year.

Maybe they were used on an L20A.

Or weld some KA valve covers together??

The wonders of an engineer.... Check this out... http://www.break.com/index/awesome-lifelike-robotic-dog.html

You guys are crazy... Roostmonkey, I love that Alfa! very cool!

I have seen plain dry liners for $12 each... Whereas wet liners are a whole different story. Maybe $100+/cylinder? Check out Darton for wet sleeves. They can install them for you too if you ship them your block.