OlderThanMe

Sweet!!!

TIG is the BEST for this particular application because of the amount of control you have. Stick is the strongest because is leaves a small heat affected zone(H.A.Z.) relative to TIG. MIG just doesn's have the penetration that stick does unless you convert MIG (Metal Inert Gas) to MAG to (Metal Active Gas) then you will get good penetration. I have seen MAG used a couple times and it is REALLY messy. Lots of spatter. MAG and Stick are close but the MAG is easier on cleanup. It still does not have the same quality of penetration into the base metal. It does not matter really when you are doing a header because you won't be putting that much stress on the welds. As long as you get decent penetration you don't need the extra strength. It's just a header, not s bridge or tubing in a nuclear plant. Some guys I know went out of the weding program and are now doing welding on piping for nuclear generation plants. I was just putting the fact out there. If you have problems with the H.A.Z. cracking then turn down the TIG amps or use a different process. That should not be a problem though with this part that is plenty strong and thick anyways.

Anthony: cool setup! good to hear another story of this type of header working well. The PVC is a good idea but another thing I saw in the fabrication handbook is using hoses like what they use on a vacuum cleaner. You could then make a PVC header to make sure everything will mate up correcly.

That is possible and the O2 sensors would be expensive as heck... The true sequential setup would be easier to setup I think. I don't know if the effort would be worth setting up a side-by-side unequal size turbo system. I would not want a chance to waste a shortblock in experementing with a side-by-side uequal turbo setup.

hmm.. There is a 260z 2+2 down at the local junkyard. I'll go down there sometime and look under it. Cygnusx1 is right about staying in boost longer: My dad's 944turbo loves climbing hills! it punches you into the seat like nothing else at 15psi...

Jmortenson: I have a correction for you. The 260Z only had the 3.36 R180 with the automatic tranny. That gear speed claculator said it came with the manual tranny but that is not right. The manual came with the 3.54 R180 rear end.

Yes he covered that idea but the turbo placement was a little confusing. The main problem is that three pistons would be making low end power and the other three would make high end power because of the different backpressures of the turbos. Let me rephrase that: some would have low end restriction and others would not. There would be some negative effects(don't know them all) of the different backpressures that I think it would compromise the reliability of the engine. The top set of problems may not be right but I can think from the backpressure differences you would have problems. It is an interesting idea but you want to treat all 6 of your individual engines, that are connected together inline, the same.

Low pressure turbo= big turbo High pressure turbo= smaller turbo The general concensus is that you can't have low spool and have good power. I think this is narrow minded and not willing to think outside the box. There is the concern of the smaller turbo limiting the boost of the larger one since it has a smaller input size. Once the larger turbo spools it will pull a vacuum on the smaller turbo. I came up with a solution to this problem. Setup a valve (like a wastegate) to vent air around the small turbo. Connect a tube just before the high pressure turbo on the intake side and then the valve, and then connect it just before the low pressure turbo's air intake. I have a little sketch I made that I'll post up soon. You would just plumb a manifold to the high pressure turbo like normal with your external wastegate and then have a 90 degree bend after the high pressure turbine and feed down right into the low pressure turbo. You can wastegate around the low pressure turbo but you won't need a big wastegate as the low pressure turbo will flow really well. For the high pressure turbo you will want a big wastegate so that when you finish boosting with the high pressure turbo that you will get good flow to your low pressure turbo for it to spool quickly. BTW you would want a sensor placed inbetween the turbos so that if there was ever vacuum you would actuate the valve and open the path to bypass the high pressure turbo. I came up with this solution for using on an L6 but it would work on any inline engine. You could do it with an opposed motor or a V-type motor but you would have to be creative with plumbing. Some dodge diesels use a consecutive setup like this but don't use a high pressure turbo bypass valve. Maybe that is because it is an OEM design..

Another of my roses...It helps when you don't have to go out and buy roses...you can just go out and pick one... *edit* another grinding pic. I like the spinners...lol Make sure your driveshaft is completely TIGHTLY bolted to the diff. Mine got pretty loose... oops..Had to borrow the curb of the cellphone store...got weird looks from spining my tires on the curb in reverse...lol

Let me tell you: Polishing the exterior of a cylinder head is not easy!!! BRAAP got me for best flame...arg. This was a grill we made in my welding class with the new plasma table.

true... I heard a dune buggy in town with a teepee high exhaust with the stinger at about 70 degrees from the ground. You can hear the thing from a mile away and it has a ~60 horsepower 1.6 liter N/A aircooled engine...LOL

Zfiberglass has one for the same price and much better quality

I watched it about 20 times then uploaded and watched another 15 times before going to work...lol It is amazing at how the hood pushes up at such low speed (under 60mph)!!! The car is truly AMAZING!!!

I have seen smaller ones like the VW stinger type like on the BRE cars. I just have not seen the huge ones like on that car. You can get stingers for like $15 each from a VW catalog...I may get a pair of them. The big one there was just sort of rediculous.

Yes it was posted before but it is worthy of being reposted... Rock on the mini Ferraris!!!

BRAAP: You hit the nail on the head right there.

What is with the exhaust on that triumph? Is that for good scavenging? I would imagine that it would act as a diffuser but for the exhaust and help pull the gasses out.

I think making a jig for the manifold would be the best thing to do. Attach your collector to the jig and then attach the main plate to a spare cylinder head. Mount the collector jig to the spare cylinder head with some pretty big bolts. Maybe some spare used head bolts (gotta do it cheap). I have a squareport head I won'd be using (E88) on my build so I will probably use it for my jig. I have a jig base I built a long time ago to make control arms but I could modify it to make this header jig.

sweet lunar!!! Get those pics up!!! maybe it will look like... THIS...

COOL!!! what is the production #? It is an early 74' 260 by the front bumper. Looks rust free! (or at least less rust than normal)

Prox, Yes you COULD do it I guess..but TIG is soo much better. Just get some anti-corrosion high nickel wire like the second link talks about. With this thicker metal it would be easy to MIG it without blowing through. TIG WILL have good penetration on the tubes. If you use mig get some extra pieces and practice welding them together to get full penetration of the base metal. If you don't the inside will have gaps inbetween the joint configuration which will do weird things with airflow. You don't want more than 1/32"-1/16" of penetration though. If you do it will cause restriction in the exhaust. Edit* I guess you would want to practice anyway no matter which process you use. You could Stick weld this and it would be WAY stronger than MIG or TIG...Less heat input than TIG (less H.A.Z.) and better penetration than MIG...It's just messy as all getout though...

I just uploaded it!! Very very cool... Also for you aerodynamics guys...underhood PRESSURE... Vacuum can't do that to the front of a hood...albiet a FG hood...

I have FAST DSL...lol That sounds awesome as far as when you start building boost! 375 is a heck of a lot of power for an untuned system!!! I am looking at different turbos that will give me a LOT of power so that looks like a good option... I am going to set up a nice head and all the turbo stuff (megasquirt, big injectors, P90...) on my L26 bottom end while I build a strong shortblock. I don't want to crank up an expensive motor and something be wrong and mess up a grand of pistons...I'll just go till it is tuned or I melt my flattops... Then comes an extra .4 liters

Awesome!! did you fabricate it or have a shop do it? Great design! can you give some info on the turbo spooly actuated thing (that lowers lag) right at the inlet of the turbine? Also how much does your header weigh aprox.? Edit* just found your GT40 fitment thread where you said you made it. Very cool!!!

I drove my Z for a little bit with a dull-ish finish on the face of my aluminum dash... It reflected on the windshield and made the windshield impossible to see out of and when the sun came from over your shoulder it just about blinded me. Of course my dash is a race car style with flat sides and very simple. Here it is: Yours may be diferent. What thickness are you using for the aluminum? the welds look small so maybe .045"? I used .063" for mine and it is plenty stiff! I will be using a nice oiled tool leather to cover mine since this black felt catches a lot dust. Your dash looks great and very involved! looks very good!! Props on those rounded corners!!!