seattlejester

There is a local who just finished his swap, I think hepatitus Z is the name he picked. Hood closed https://www.imgrum.pw/media/1798223233800181447 Hood open https://www.imgrum.pw/media/1799729077469493531

Yea scratch that that is almost 3 times my build area, probably like 9 times the build volume. If I didn't get a deal on pretty much every piece this would definitely not be a viable option unless I picked it from the beginning. I think in the end I'll come out a little ahead if everything sells for a good price.

To release the collapsable shaft I just used a drill to drill the punch out and pry up the remnants. After prying and ending up with a blood blister and a few scratches I figured it was not worth the effort. Just slide the splines away so you don't accidentally knick them and make sure to clean up the metal filings to prevent bind. You can punch a little lower to prevent it from slipping out if you have that much slop The R18ZZ bearings are a bit loose on the shaft may need to weld a few high points so it doesn't bounce around. Make sure to slip the boot on first before the bearing.

Trans install almost finished. Hoping to tackle power steering, steering angle, and some brake tweaks before this.

There are some shells that aren't worth saving, but then those aren't the most pleasant to work on. His frame looks a little bit more realistic now, but his decisions and executions are a bit odd.

Some small details. The reverse switch pigtail is available from wiring specialties. $14 or so shipped Good luck finding the socket/cap allen head bolts if they are missing from the adapter plate. For some reason the american version of the metric bolts get coarser as they go up, very annoying to try and find any in stock. Belmetric is your friend, super affordable even factoring in shipping. $24 for full replacements plus extras. The slave cylinder port is supposedly a 10mm inverted flare. I have yet to verify. On a VQ setup these are replaced quite often along with the clutch slave I'm guessing from how the exhaust is run so it may be advisable to replace it to prevent worn or melted internal seals. The dowel pins for the adapter plate to transmission have a nissan part number of 11010C if I'm not mistaken, it is on my laptop will correct. Downfall of buying used, but for about half price I can't really complain. Be prepared to take a hit on the drive shaft. $580 is the quote I got, the differential flange and the input flange were $200+ alone. Mckinney offers one for $525, but I think they have a bit of a lead time plus shipping of course.

That is one tall delta, specs? Mine is maybe 1/2 the size lol. It is pretty intrusive for sure, and the exhaust and trans make quite a bit of heat. I was tempted to just put the exhaust out the fender in the front and save myself a lot of fab work, but I also kind of want this to be street-able which will most likely mean a muffler and maybe a cat or at least a resonator in the future. I think I'll most likely do something similar as to what I had, but cover up the front with a plate held in by riv-nuts and the rear will be some type of box I think with a rubber cover of some sort. Definitely just going to wrap it with insulation for the time being. I don't think mine is capable of printing TPU and with the interactions required for fine tuning I don't think I want to sink that much time into it. This is definitely more involved then I had hoped.

+1 for evaporust, although if I recall it leaves a residue that needs to be cleaned.

I've heard of that one, completely forgot about it though. I'm pretty happy with where it sits, and I have it close enough to order a drive shaft at least. Sealing up the hole and remounting the proportioning valve is going to be an ordeal, but this also gives me the chance to install my new hydro and line lock so silver lining.

Appreciate the comments! Steel stick or JB weld may have worked to secure a bolt, someone even suggested making a new seal by sealing up the balls again. I will say even after welding this required quite a bit of force to remove, not sure if JB weld in that orientation is as strong. I thought of using a press type thing, but this hole is so small, less then 12mm so the hardware I could fit was quite small, the rear of the bearing is also tapered as are nuts usually so small hardware with double taper may have had some issues, definitely another option for the arsenal. Just to reiterate this isn't a typical bushing, this one actually is a ball bearing with balls a roller bearing. The problem was the seals that retain the grease for the balls blew out as I was stuffing in bread, news paper as Geno suggested may have worked as it would be less likely to slip past the balls, but the hydraulic method was kind of off the table. Bottom line, getting something in there and welding it was my solution. Probably not even an option for most bushings since they are bronze, but being a roller bearing this is one of the benefits.

There is pretty much no chance of getting the transmission in without cutting out the factory mounts. Use eye protection, a grinding hood or safety glasses is a must. The trans mounts are pretty easy to remove. cuts along the side one to meet the cuts at the top, and one on the bottom outboard of the nut plate and it will come out. You can use a flapper disc or to get it really flat, or a hammer to make room. Tips for mounting the transmission. Use a nice flat piece of wood or metal and a piece of rope to hold the tail end up. You can roll it and the flat plus the weight should keep it from untangling. A ratchet strap could be an alternative. For the engine side a couple heavy duty zip ties can help line up a couple holes to get started. Really consider a transmission jack. We were using a combo of 2 jacks and it is precarious for sure. Might go grab one for final assembly. My engine sits about 3.5ish inches from the firewall. The transmission is fairly long the shift tower does indeed interfere with basically everything. After considering making new mounts to gain an inch or so and save my little change pocket with the brake adjuster, friend and I decided to just cut everything out. The change pouch is cut to the grommet, the grommet area is them slit along the sides and pulled up, the sides are then rolled against the tunnel. Still need to widen the opening to basically push the shift tower more into the cabin, but as it is now the trans is barely under the frame rails. Clearancing the sides and bringing the tower up another inch or so (the top of the trans will almost be touching the top of the trans tunnel), will keep the trans from being the lowest point. The shifter location is completely workable. With the short shifter getting all gears is simple. Plus with the engine still back I can rotate the crank or swap out the belts without having to pull the radiator. Looks like the trans will fit and I won't have to make new engine mounts for the time being.

I'll have to try newspaper some other time, but no dice on the tools. The blind bearing puller fit easily, but seems like it maxed out just a little after grabbing the bearing so after a few pulls it would fly out, either the threads run out too fast or something I'll have to look at it again later. The conventional tool had no chance of fitting at all. It is advertised for 1/2 an inch but it was like 16mm or something across. I managed to shave it down and shape it to fit the 12mm hole, but at that point the legs were thin enough that pulling hard on the hammer, the legs would bow in and pop off. I didn't try the newspaper, because after about 2 hours I was kind of over it. I put in the traditional tool I had ground down to fit and welded the bearing to the legs and pulled hard until it flew out. Super annoying, suggestion would be to try the newspaper or a better quality or slightly larger blind bearing puller. The two claw ones have no chance of working the way they are designed.

I appreciate it, just need to check my own sanity.

Quite subtle, I dig it. Could you verify the measurement from the firewall to the trans adapter or bell housing or something when you get the chance?

Thanks for taking the plunge!

You don't want flux if you can help it, it requires clean up afterwards so quite a bit more work, MIG is what you want. Once again you don't really need to think of welding for quite a while. Getting all the pieces cut out with a perfect fit and prepping the surface is way more time consuming. When the time comes as in you have all your pieces ready, you can look around. You really only need it for a week or 2 if you have all the pieces ready so $15 a day is a good deal granted you would have to go rent a bottle, but if you are looking to buy, $800 is pretty expensive. You can get a Hobart Handler 140 for under $500. Lincoln also sells a MIG welder for under or around $500 as well. You can even look at some cheaper units like Everlast or AHP which have offerings for even less than that, even harbor freight can be an option. Welding MIG really is not that hard, have someone show you the ropes and maybe come by and check on your progress after a while.

Engine moved forward a whole 1.5 inches with my current mounts so I made out like a bandit there. In my application I can't move it forward much more or else I risk the crank trigger wheel hitting the sway bar. Waiting on some tools to pull the pilot bearing and move onto getting the adapter and such installed, not looking forward to grinding out the trans tunnel. The mounts I put in in the back are not inline, they do have captive nuts and all, but one sits higher than the other and they jut out quite a bit I'm afraid one is going to foul the shifter if not the drive shaft.

This one is actually a bearing instead of a usual bushing so it would just rotate unfortunately.

Also just wanted to say, I really appreciate you guys. I asked on the specific make forum because I figured they might know off the bat, wasn't nearly the case. Maybe I'm one of the first ever to have blown out the seal making me seem like an insane person.

I just spent money on two tools may have some staging of the bearing going on lol. I was surprised the bread was squishing out. Definitely preferable over grease though. Maybe newspaper, bread, grease in the future.

I just worry it will squish out of the bearing, I'll definitely add it to my repertoire though I think we have a winner! It seems to be half price on amazon, so I placed an order, should be here by Thursday.

Hmm paper may be big enough to not bass through the balls. That may be an option I was thinking trying to weld something onto it, but didn't want to plug up my only access hole so to speak as well as not wanting to put a lot of heat into it near the rear main seal which as with seemingly all toyota seals costs quite a bit and is the only recommended seal. So game plan as of now: Try the bearing puller and slide hammer if it fits Try paper Grind down bearing puller to fit and hope it doesn't break If it breaks, paper doesn't work, then weld a bolt with the same thread as the slide hammer and go to town

If it was on the fly wheel I would just pop it off and press it out. Unfortunately this thing is in the crank, I really don't want to disassemble the motor. Some people have mentioned what you suggested as a method, just basically destroying the bearing with a chisel and scraping out the remnants, but I feel like that is an absolute last resort, I really don't want to be hammering the bearing in case it pushes it further in and then I have no room to try and get it out.

That is kind of the problem at the moment. The hole is under 12mm, and the pilot bearing tool is for 1/2 inch at the minimum. I went to 3 auto stores and finally found one that had it, but when I measured it I found it would not fit the hole, and I thought they would frown if I brought their tool back ground down. I ordered one so I can maybe grind down the jaws, but was hoping someone knew of a tool that got small enough.

Except the orange seal is now blown out so the ball bearings are exposed and the grease/bread is coming through.