seattlejester

That is kind of the problem at the moment. The hole is under 12mm, and the pilot bearing tool is for 1/2 inch at the minimum. I went to 3 auto stores and finally found one that had it, but when I measured it I found it would not fit the hole, and I thought they would frown if I brought their tool back ground down. I ordered one so I can maybe grind down the jaws, but was hoping someone knew of a tool that got small enough.

Except the orange seal is now blown out so the ball bearings are exposed and the grease/bread is coming through.

Hey guys, I've asked on the specific make forum, but I feel like you guys may know of some other techniques. How do you remove the clutch pilot bearing, with the caveat being if you have blown out the seal? I was doing the hydraulic method and was using grease, then went and bought some bread as that was getting messy, got half a slice in there when the oil seal blew out and now it just pushes out the grease and even the bread between the ball bearings. The hole is like 12mm so the traditional pullers don't seem to fit, I ordered a generic one so I can modify it, but was hoping for some thoughts.

I would counter with a V12 in the sound department

In Leon's defense and I surmise his main point is that it looks like you are looking for an out. There are fixes to the niggles that you mention as ben mentions. If it is difficult to address these issue in stock form grafting on a new system would potentially be a cause of concern as trying to trouble shoot a grafted system is going to be far more difficult. Looking to swap out the front suspension here to apply hyperbole would be to change the engine because the spark plugs are fouled. Granted a huge precursor is if this is strictly in the realm of discussion aka bench racing, then the discussion of theory is at our imaginations limits. Unfortunately one of the points of this forum per JohnC is that this isn't automotive 101. The fact you state you need to learn is awesome, it is a huge first step that many people are too prideful to take, but it would be more appropriate to search and find a few systems and ask specific questions, the breath and depth of the subject of suspension and chassis dynamics is quite vast. And the use of the "b word" is quite frowned upon here, as stated there are different bests depending on time, location, finances, etc trying to find that without providing any info would be an exercise in futility. To keep things going though, if a fixed knuckle is a concern, the 240sx knuckle is quite modular. I've looked and noticed you could run them flipped in the front with the driver on the passenger and vice versa (the 240sx is rear steer, the 240z is front steer), standard coilover and a custom top, and you have a knuckle with quite a bit more aftermarket options in terms of brakes and coilovers. Granted the benefits I don't know would outweigh the effort involved.

^Help us Americans out!

The new surge tanks are pretty crazy. I think Stealth or Radium make one with a built in regulator as well.

The use of the word best is actually written into the forum rules, actually qualifies a post for the shed off the bat, but people are being very nice and informative with their responses. Just like your definition of best is quite different, like NewZed says a lot of members on here can weld and use a micrometer so best may be a matter of function rather than ease of assembly.

I can see if you put time into it you can get some cool results like have a turbo act like a super charger with gradual build of power, or boost by gear and such. Alternatively you could run a MBC and not mash the pedal to the floor everywhere you go. Interesting thing when I talked about it with, some people were still thinking the bleed type valves and were saying I should switch. Kind of shocks people when I tell them I went from an EBC to a MBC. Granted as stated my EBC never had a chance to work. I'm getting pretty close to bugging you. I want to do the trans swap and the power steering and maybe figure out a baffle or make a surge tank. Make sure all my ducks are in a row and all that.

I think the boost table has a start point that you set in the 100+ kPa range so at times when you are off boost or idling the solenoid does not actuate. The solenoid never had a chance in this situation as I did not plug a bottom wastegate port. I did take it apart and grease it, but after this I was not sure if I wanted to deal with it sticking as such, so I switched to a manual spring and ball type. I'm pretty happy with it for the time being.

I have very little exposure to RB heads so ^ his advice would be more sound. I've seen even nice mazworks manifolds crack which I imagine quality would not be the culprit which points towards an expansion issue being the culprit. Adding some supports off the head flange to the turbo flange and adding some bellows or those fancy 3 way slip joints would be snazzy and show quite a bit of intelligent design.

I tell people that all the time when they find out I have a welder and tell me they have a welding project. Just have the piece completely prepped and I can swing by and zap it in. 1 person has taken me up on it, granted they just had me order all the parts new and order it cut to length.

Picked up a 350z drive shaft from the wreckers for $80. The stock drive shaft at least for the 350z is a carbon-fiber/plastic composite. Crazy light, but a bit more troublesome to fabricate with. The u-joints looked like they are staked so potentially non replaceable as well. I'll have to see what the drive shaft shop says, I'm going to try and cut the composite portion off so it is just the metal yoke to play with, worse case I'll have to pony up for the spicer joint listed above. Welding the shifter tripod is a bit of a tricky business. Aluminum is an excellent heat sink and this style has the rubber bushings so we spent quite a bit of time heating up the material, getting a bead in, and then trying to quench just the ends with the bushings in it. The shifter bracket is rough as well as it has a staked in u-joint so heating it up you will boil the grease out of the piece. Quench it too hard and you will probably propagate a crack so similarly you need to find a balance. Quite troublesome, it may be worthwhile to try and grab the mount from an earlier CD001 which don't have the bushings in so you can just zap away. You have to make sure the shifter bracket has enough clearance to clear both the drive shaft and the shortened knuckle has enough space to clear the bracket.

With a decent welder you can sell it for what you got it for so you don't really have to consider it a sunk cost. Ask around, you may be surprised who has a welder or who knows someone with one who may be able to help you out. Additionally I tell people this all the time. If you have all the pieces cut out, the surface prepped, and the new pieces ready to go in, you can either call a mobile welder or rent a welder over the weekend and put it all in in a couple days. It is the fitting, shaping, and cutting that takes a long time.

Off topic, but did you like the carter pump? Happen to know the model? I'm facing some fuel starvation issue and was thinking of doing a surge tank setup and was looking at some lift pumps. Carters seems to pop up as an option.

I think as a super rough estimate, it is roughly 10hp/gallon. The mr gasket pump pushes what it says is 28gph. My last friend with a 350 said his motor pout out at least 300hp so I could see you using more fuel then the pump can supply especially if it is pulling instead of pushing.That is with good quality wire as well, if it is thin gauge I can see the pump pushing substantially less. I had a similar issue with my L28, made me end up hating the motor and I went one step further in looking to do an engine swap. Similarly in a way it would suddenly cut power if you got on it HARD for a long duration. When I went to execute my swap I found that the fuel pump wire from the relay was loose. So under hard acceleration it would come off so the car ran until the fuel bowls went dry then would run real rough then as the g's returned to neutral the wire would move and come into arcing distance and fill the fuel bowl. The newer EFI conversions are pretty neat, some have pretty decent auto tuning setups and some like this one apparently has PWM to control the fuel pump to maintain fuel pressure and I assume run just a feed line, but I just don't want you to drop a nuke to kill a mosquito. Might be a higher volume pump and a pump placement change would remove the hesitation for quite a bit less in time and effort.

Another 2+2 in germany, seems like the 2+2 is more popular over there than over here! It is very interesting, people usually get the front flare "right" but, the rear flares are always mounted a bit low. Like the body line that goes from the front to the back, you have the two bolt holes above the line in the front, but below the line in the rear. Is it the lack of the rear bumper that you loose the reference point? Or is it something else that made you mount them lower than the fronts?

I imagine the volume is a problem with the Mr. Gasket pump (I had one as well, but feeding the a stock L28), at almost double the displacement I imagine you are running out of volume to maintain the pressure. The pumps are designed to push more than pull, so having it near the engine bay is causing it to do more work pulling the fuel rather than pushing it. Granted the way the pick up and all that is in the stock tank as I remember the pumps will always be pulling anyways. If the carb setup works than replacing it with a higher volume slightly higher pump with an adjustable regulator should work fine, so I'm not sure if it is a good reason to upgrade, but upgrading it would "solve" the problem. I would say if you are more tired of dealing with the carbs, needles, valves, jets, etc or looking for a bit more fuel efficiency would be a better justification.

^I'll have to agree, I've begun to see the ones without the fenders past the body line as wrong now, they just look like they are sitting too low. Granted those don't look like the standard flares. I can appreciate the non circular flares for the front where with low off set wheels and turning it is required, but in the rear it looks a bit off.

I think he mentioned that to me in my control arm post as well, although I had no idea how that would work. Just to clarify, this would be for the rear correct? Or is this more for the front like the video you posted in the other thread? I think I have a visual for it now though: Stock upright Weld two gusseted brackets under the hole for the spindle pin on either side Replace the control arm attachments into two ball joints

Welcome back! Very nice adapter, looks much better than the pedestal with the flange directly off of it style. I'll be referring people to this for people looking for an external wastegate on the stock manifold.

Most people do a power steering delete, that is what I did on my last two motors.

I think part of the reason I spend so much time here is that I enjoy the spirit of the board. The "there is no best" rule comes to mind. There really isn't, depending on your geographic location, your skill level, your support group, the best is highly variable. Throw in things like the activity and we find a different "best" emerges for each one and at that point there is no best. I think once you grasp that you realize on the other hand, there is no worst, something really might be an option for someone given their walk in life. You apply that to real life and to hate a group of people or to blindly follow another just isn't an option. I love the ridiculously intricate discussions we can have. I even enjoy it when people argue even with me. Maybe not in the moment, as it is hard to look at where someone is coming from, to peel back the red or to calm your heart rate when someone points out you are wrong or has a vastly different opinion, but I think being able to calm down and maybe adopt someone else's perspective for a moment is something I learned on this board and am deeply thankful for. Also you have to realize when people argue with you it means they care, maybe not for you, but they care about the topic enough to take a moment out of their day to point something out. Sometimes it isn't welcome for sure, but I think in the context of the forum where we refer to the FSM, diagrams, charts, tables, and manuals I appreciate that there are people who care who take the time to interject and even spend the time to back up their opinion whether I agree with it or not. Just knowing that there are people who aren't just mindless dolls puts a smile on my face as silly as that may be.

I think with the modern trend of "I know what I am doing" by maybe some that are not as knowledgeable taking over the land scape asking questions are a good measure to check yourself. Whether there is merit in the response, or the questioner will follow solid advice will always be determined. Chances are people have different perspectives, priorities, and experiences, the benefit of the forum is that it brings people together. Some might have extensive track experience, others may have extensive autocross experience, others may know the intricacies of stance, and others may know the world of drifting. Suspension/steering for these activities are quite different depending on the course and layout. The caveat is always how much do you let the information influence your decision. Some may be bench racing, others may be suspension engineers, everyone is going to have an opinion. I think a good exercise is to entertain the options, that usually helps lay out your priority. Like maybe a double wishbone setup is the most stable with great camber characteristics and adjustability, but if adding additional suspension pickup points is out of your time/budget/etc then the priority obviously falls into limiting to something of a similar nature ala strut with single lower control arm. You don't have to act on every suggestion, but looking into it can help focus your own goals.

Depending on how an electric setup is made you could have unwanted delay. Like when I asked about some of the other systems, the controller maker suggested I stay with the basic one as the more advanced one that had torque sensing wouldn't be as linear or immediate. I imagine systems built around a stock setup that have torque sensing would have such a delay. Alternatively some say electric systems don't supply as good feedback. If you ramp it up it will supply the torque with almost no resistance even if you are steering over a large rock. You could do the same with a hydro, but they have kick back. We will have to see, like I wonder if the steering wheel will self center with an electric assist setup.