seattlejester

Yes very very good point, I was looking at strictly from a spline perspective, but any VLSD differential will need the companion flange that comes with it at least on the passenger side. The original chart linked does reference the VLSD differentials with the V designation after R200 ala R200V, any of those will NEED the companion flange on the passenger side and if you don't want to run lop sided axles get the one on the driver side. According to many those VLSD passenger inputs should be interchangeable as well with people running the 88 Shiro axle in J30's and people with S14's running J30 centers as well.

Glad to help. But, in retrospect, take that with a grain of salt. I also installed adjustable control arms at the same time. They were set roughly to stock length, but could be longer.

The missing bits as far as I have seen. R200 from the 280z, 280zx, Z31 300zx are all 29 spline. Given interchangability between the early S13, I would presume they are similarly 30mm. Given these all have the same ring gear and even use the same bearing, I would be tempted to say there is quite a bit of interchangability. So our easy targets of 29 spline 30mm are: S13 – 30mm, 29 spline, 3×2S14 (pre 96) – 30mm, 29 spline, 3×2 J30 (pre 94) – 30mm, 29 spline, 5×1 Z32 NA – 29 spline, 5×1 Adding in the information above in similar format. S30 (280z) - 30mm, 29 spline, 4x1 S130 (280zx turbo) - 30mm, 29 spline, direct input, no input shaft Z31 (na and turbo) - 30mm, 29 spline, direct input, no input shaft S13 – 30mm, 29 spline, 3×2S14 (pre 96) – 30mm, 29 spline, 3×2 J30 (pre 94) – 30mm, 29 spline, 5×1 Z32 NA – 29 spline, 5×1 Take with a dash of salt, since I have the 3x2 pattern J30 center, but a 280zx turbo axle, at least on the driver side, and that axle slipped in and out without the lock ring. Some people say the later Q45 have the bigger axles even in some of the slightly earlier years, so take some precaution. Well glossing over my personal issues. There are the 29 spline options. One of the problem is that the early differentials of most of the long nose variety, S30 and S130, have 10mm bolt holes. The later ones starting from the Z32 era have 12mm bolt holes. You can purchase shims that have an OD of 12mm and an ID of 10mm to make up the difference. Alternatively the cross over is the Z31, the differential for these cars are long nose, but came with 12mm bolt holes. While the CLSD R200 from the 300zx turbo command an eye watering value, the NA ones really shouldn't. Alternatively, if you plan on using the input shaft, and an axle with 2 flanges on either end, any of these center sections should physically fit in the long nose case and accept the ring gear (with the bushings making up the bolt hole difference). The input shafts being the same 30mm diameter should mean the seal should seal as well with the exclusion of some later Q45 and the Z32TT and I guess the later 32 and 33 GTR although I doubt that is an option for many here. Just some more info for some considering alternative swaps. The S15 Silvia Helicals are OEM and quite affordable many coming with inputs for ~$400.

I was kind of curious after seeing a few S15 helical differentials for a down right affordable price. I stumbled upon this list. http://www.eatsleepboost.lt/tech-info/nissan-tech-info/nissan-r200-diff-ratios/ Copied below: Nissan R200 diff ratios + drivetrain info Nissan R200 diff ratios: 3.692 – 48/13 3.916 – 47/12 4.083 – 49/12 4.111 – 37/9 4.363 – 48/11 4.636 – 51/11 4.900 – 49/10 Z33 – MT – R200 – 3.538 Z33 – MT – R200V – 3.538 Z33 – AT – R200V – 3.357 Z32 – VG30DETT – R230V – 3.692 (6×1 output shafts) Z32 – VG30DE – R200V – 4.083 (5×1 output shafts) G35 – Sedan – AT – R200 – 3.357 G35 – Sedan – MT – R200V – 3.538 G35 – Sedan – AWD – AT – R200 – 3.357 G35 – Coupe – MT – R200V – 3.538 G35 – Coupe – AT – R200 – 3.357 G35 – Coupe – AT – R200V – 3.357 Q45 – G50 – R200V – 3.538 Q45 – FY33 – R200V – 3.692 J30 – R200V – 3.916 R34 GT – RB20DE – manual/auto – 4.363 R34 GT – RB25DE – manual – 4.363 R34 GT – RB25DE – auto – 4.083 R34 GT-FOUR – RB25DE 4wd – manual/auto – 4.363 R34 GTT – RB25DET – manual – R200H – 4.111 R34 GTT – RB25DET – auto – 4.111 R34 GTR – RB26DETT – manual – R230 – 3.545 R33 GTS – RB20E – manual/auto – 4.083 R33 GTS – RB20E (96.1+) – auto – 3.583 R33 GTS – RB25DE – manual/auto – 4.363 R33 GTS-4- RB25DE 4wd – manual/auto – 4.363 R33 GTST – RB25DET – manual – R200V – 4.111 R33 GTST – RB25DET – auto – 4.363 R33 GTR – RB26DETT – manual – R200 (mechanical LSD) – 4.111 (6×1 output shafts) R33 GTR Vspec – RB26DETT – manual – R230V (el. controlled) – 4.111 (6×1 output shafts) R32 GTE – RB20E – 4.363 R32 GTE – RB20E (ABS) – manual/auto – 4.083 R32 GTS-t – RB20DET – manual/auto – 4.363 R32 – RB20DET 4wd – manual – 4.375 R32 GTR – RB26DETT – manual – F160 – 4.111 – (Front Final Gear) R32 GTR – RB26DETT – manual – R200 (mechanical LSD) – 4.111 S15 – SR20DE – manual/auto – 4.083 S15 – SR20DET – manual – R200H – 3.692 (5 & 6 bolt) S15 – SR20DET – auto – R200V – 3.916 S14 – KA24DE – USDM – manual/auto – 4.083 S14 – SR20DET – EDM – manual – R200V – 3.692 S14 – SR20DET – EDM – auto – R200V – 3.916 S14 – SR20DET – ADM – manual – 3.692 S14 – SR20DE – JDM – manual – 4.083 S14 – SR20DET – JDM – manual – 4.083 S14 – SR20DET – JDM – auto – 3.916 S13 – KA24DE – USDM – manual/auto – R200/R200V – 4.083 S13 – CA18DE – JDM – r180 6 bolt – manual/auto – 4.363 S13 – CA18DET – EDM – manual/auto – R200 – 3.916 S13 – CA18DET – ADM – manual/auto – 4.363 S13 – CA18DET – JDM – manual/auto – 4.363 S13 – SR20DE (ABS) – manual/auto – 4.111 S13 – SR20DET – manual – 4.111 S13 – SR20DET – auto – 3.916 PS13/RPS13 – SR20DE (ABS) – JDM – manual/auto – 4.083 PS13/RPS13 – SR20DET – JDM – manual – 4.083 PS13/RPS13 – SR20DET – JDM – auto – 3.916 A31 – RB20E – manual/auto – 3.916 (5 & 6 bolt) A31 – RB20DE – manual – 4.363 A31 – RB20DE – auto – 4.083 A31 – RB20DET – manual/auto – 4.363 A31 – RB20DET 4wd – manual/auto – 4.375 C23 – SR20DE – manual/auto – 4.363 C23 – CD20T – manual/auto – 4.363 C23 – LD23 – manual/auto – 4.363 C23 – CD20T 4wd – manual/auto – 4.636 C23 – LD23 4wd – manual/auto – 4.636 C23 – SR20DE 4wd – auto – 4.900 C23 – SR20DE 4wd – manual – 4.636 C23 – GA16DE – 4.636 C33 – RD28 – manual – 3.916 C33 – RD28 – auto – 3.692 C33 – RB20E – auto – 3.583 C33 – RB20DE – manual – 4.363 C33 – RB20DE – auto – 4.083 C33 – RB20DET – auto – 4.363 C34 – RB20E – manual/auto – 3.916 C34 – RB20DE – auto – 4.111 C34 – RB25DE – auto – 4.363 C34 – RB25DE 4wd – auto – 4.363 C34 – RB25DET – auto – 4.111 C35 – RD28 – manual/auto – 3.692 C35 – RB20DE – auto – 4.111 C35 – RB25DE 4wd – auto – 4.363 C35 – RB25DET – auto – 4.111 Y32 Gloria – 4.636 WC34 – SR20DE 4wd – manual/auto – 4.363 WC34 – RB20E – manual/auto – 4.083 WC34 – RB20DE – manual/auto – 4.083 WC34 – RB25DE – manual/auto – 4.083 WC34 – RB25DET – manual/auto – 4.083 WC34 – RB25DET 4wd – manual – 4.111 WC34 – RB25DET 4wd – auto – 4.083 WC34 – RB26DETT 4wd – manual – 4.111 Diff output shafts / stubs 3×2 use 8mm bolts, 5×1 use 8 or 10mm bolts, 6×1 use 10mm bolts 29 and 30 spline stubs are 30mm outside diameter 31 spline stubs are 33mm outside diameter S13 – 30mm, 29 spline, 3×2 S14 (pre 96) – 30mm, 29 spline, 3×2 S14 (96+) – 30mm, 30 spline, 3×2 S15 – 30mm, 30 spline, 5×1 J30 (pre 94) – 30mm, 29 spline, 5×1 J30 (94+) – 30mm, 30 spline, 3×2 Z32 NA – 29 spline, 5×1 Z32 TT – 31 spline, 6×1 Z33 – 32mm, 31 spline, 6×1 Q45 G50 (pre 96) – 30mm, 30 spline, 6×1 Q45 (96+)- 30mm, 30 spline, 5×1 R32 GTR (pre pull clutch/94) – 30mm, 30 spline, 6×1 R32 GTR (94+) – 33mm , 31 spline, 6×1 R33 GTR – 33mm, 31 spline, 6×1 R34 GTR – 30 spline, 6×1 R34 GTT – 30 spline, 5×1 Axles There are two types of axles – tripod (regular s-body axles) and Rzeppa style (z32, skylines, q45 etc). Rzeppa ones are stronger due to bigger contact patch inside the cv joint. S13, S14, S15, J30, Z32 NA, Z33, R32, R33 GTST – smaller shaft splines (29 spline, 30mm) Q45, Z32 TT, R33 GTR, R34 GTR – bigger shaft splines (32 spline, 32.5mm OD) S13, S14, S15, J30 (94+) – tripod cv joints J30 (pre 94), Q45, Z32, Z33, R32 GTR, R33 GTR – Rzeppa style cv joints Differential bearings R200 side bearing “30209” R200 Oil seals Pinion oil seal 38189-Y0810, 38189-Y081A – 40x75x12 Alternate aftermarket part # 190 34067B (CORTECO), NOK BH3063E Gearbox ratios S13 CA18DET (EURO) 1- 3.592 2- 2.057 3- 1.361 4- 1.000 5- 0.821 S13 CA18DET (JDM) 1- 3.321 2- 1.902 3- 1.308 4- 1.000 5- 0.838 S13 SR20DET (also same on all KA24 engines) 1- 3.321 2- 1.902 3- 1.308 4- 1.000 5- 0.759 S14 SR20DET 1- 3.321 2- 1.902 3- 1.308 4- 1.000 5- 0.838 S15 SR20DET 6speed 1- 3.626 2- 2.200 3- 1.541 4- 1.213 5- 1.000 6- 0.767 Driveshaft info S13 front part: AT – 432mm MT – 395mm S13 rear part: ABS – 590mm NON-ABS – 605mm S14 front part: AT – 441mm MT – 421mm S14 rear part: ABS – 636mm NON-ABS – 650mm

Turned the machine on for the first time this weekend. Goodness, it is quite different. Not having a pedal might have hurt us in some regard, but interesting to try. Definitely contaminated about 7 tips between my friend and I getting far too close to the material or too close with the filler rod. Also definitely overheating the crap out of whatever we are welding, but the welds seem more than strong enough. I think we need a chart to go by. Kind of got overzealous, but we just kind of dove in and played with AC welding as well, that is also a different animal. Aluminum seems to almost just run away from you. Still I can manage to make some ugly, but complete welds. We managed to almost finish shortening my transmission assembly. Need to do a couple braces/supports, but the shifter assembly supports the shifter and shifts the transmission. I'll be taking in my knuckles and probably my steering rack shortly to do so photos to come.

Sorry, but not sorry :P. Who knows how it will "feel." Everyone says hydro is better than electronic, but as far as I know you can essentially turn this down and it will be the same as a manual rack which I believe trumps hydro. Socorob did so much of the leg work, I'm following his method to the T on my first iteration. I've already built the lower shaft just by ordering the u-joint and the DD shaft. I just have to separate the column, make a jig and put the pieces together for the next bit, just turned my TIG on for the first time on saturday, so a bit of a learning curve required. Once that is setup I'm going to try the "I'm super broke and going to use as much of the datsun stuff as possible" method for fun.

Two things being discussed. 1. The adjustment knob is inline and very close to the shock hole. That means if you adjust it more than center your adjustment knob will run into the side of the hole. Sorry I don't have any pictures, but... See the knob that is centered. If you adjust it it moves the center knob and that runs into the little hole we have for the shock bolt access. To answer your question, no you cannot access it through the top in stock form. Most likely you won't be able to install it in stock form either as it comes with max negative camber assuming you are going lower, if you are at stock height with a straight chassis you may be fine just installing it as is. 2. The 4 allen bolts to adjust the camber. You can widen the shock hole to be able to reach the allen heads. Is it strong enough? Not sure, that is not leaving a lot of material, but it isn't a single shear situation in that you have 3 bolts so even if one was trying to pull towards the weak side the other two are pulling towards a stronger side, so single shear in 3 locations I guess? I'm not sure if I'm using that term correctly. It is nice to be able to access, but after realizing how negative the camber was at my desired ride height I just set mine all to full positive. Most like it won't be you who is adjusting camber, the shop I went to charges the same regardless of how difficult or easy it is, so I didn't see a reason to do them any favors and allow top access by shaving all that material. If needed you can drop it and adjust the camber and raise it back up in a few minutes. Kind of your choice really. I've seen others just make two slots where the allen bolts are, I've seen others do like above where the just open it way up, I've seen others open it up a little bit and use the ball headed allen wrenches to barely reach them. I bought these to do fairly minimum modification so I chose that route cutting out just enough to make room for the adjustment knob.

And you can't adjust it anyway with the stock towers the adjustment knob runs into the side of the center hole. There are some who worked out ways to slot the tops to allow access to the bolts, but chances are if you go low you are going to have to max these guys out to positive to stop from getting high negative camber.

Hmm I've heard of the stock cast manifold bowing so maybe there is some merit, although my current cast stainless one seems to be holding up fine. I thought the concern was with thin wall manifolds? I guess it depends how thick OP went with his manifold if it would be a concern, then it may need bellows and support stays from the flange. The newer manifold styles seem to have similar dip down then come up design on the turbo honda's and they seem to get by without any bellows on thick wall tube.

Regardless of OP's likelihood of execution I think the spirit of discussion is quite useful. I'm not sure the motivation in trying to kill the discussion. The question was vague, yes, but the replies were interesting. We're no strangers to swapping parts here especially from other makes, and I also think we have members who have shown we don't just stick on components with bubble gum and duct tape. The scope of the suspension as a whole may not be executed perfectly given we don't know much about the OP, but a discussion of alternative setups I imagine would be useful. Mark's corvette or sc300? I forget which, but that conversion comes to mind as a well executed example.

The only OEM thing I can think of is the 1jz? It has an expansion joint between the 3 cylinders if I remember. I don't really recall any manifolds with expansion joints integral in the manifold, would love to see an example.

Hi DUDE, Looks like you posted in the FAQ section. That section does not allow for replies. I've gone ahead and moved your post to the interior section. Let me know if you would like it moved to trouble shooting or somewhere different.

Happy coincidence? The Mfactory post a while back also set off a few triggers, but turns out just someone not very experienced. I mean it is odd, but not as odd as the bots posting weird essays randomly. I've gotten some disturbingly useful or accurate information on the internet before. You never know who on the side knows a ton about other subjects.

Haha, yea it might be super useful in case of an accident, but who knows. One of those you never will need it until you need it type things. I am planning on trying to make a simple install with the other column I will be getting, harvesting pretty much as much as I can off of the stock setup, but even then I think you can still employ the collapsible column from the donor setup just welding the stock datsun joint to the bottom of the collapsible portion of the donor column. I'll try and go over my thoughts for the super cheap method soon. Would be interested in your results with the yaris setup, I didn't go very far into the thread, but the fail-safe mode oneshould be a moderate amount, but probably not enough to make the vehicle feel twitchy on the highway. I think you are spot on, I really do imagine it is most likely some kind of ECU-on-trigger signal and the rheostat controls the VSS via some kind of pulse emitter. Definitely replicate-able with an arduino I imagine, but then you need a power supply conversion and regulator for the arduino, I've heard of the 555 timer, but never played with that, but if it is what I think it is then that would also be able to output a variable signal. Then it would be as simple as sending an ignition signal to power the box, feed the dedicated power and ground, and have the VSS conversion module. I think one of the threads I read it was on a factory 5 cobra with an absolutely massive tire like 275 comes to mind with a V8, additionally the saturn vue at least is an SUV which no doubt weighs more than our car, and the most common users seems to be the mustang guys who also have heavy iron block V8's. I think it should be adequate, socorob has been running his for over a year with a V8 swap, but yes time will tell.

It is the non-tech section,more or less free reign here, and her posts have been in good standing.

To save yourself some money you can totally pull the airbag and the steering wheel off at the yard. If the key is in the ignition you are in luck you can attempt this pretty early on. If it is not you will have to remove the two screws holding the combination switches which is metric which will then allow you to remove the ignition switch and the lock I believe. Turn the steering wheel so you can access two of the triangular slots at a time roughly point the steering wheel at 10 o clock to get access to the left two, turn it to 2 o clock to access the right two. The air bag is held in by 4 posts with a cutout In the back cover of the steering wheel there are 4 triangular shaped grooves These 4 grooves allow access to the spring wire. Getting a fair sized flat head screw driver at least 4 inches long and with a fairly large head about 1/4 of an inch or larger you can slide into the groove running along the edge closer to the shaft and turn the screw driver towards the longer side of the triangle, this pulls the wire out of the way of the post, supplying some pressure will allow you to slip the post past the cutout. The cutouts in the post are secured by a spring wire, the goal is to stick your driver down through the hole, get to the inboard side of the wire and clock it So the spring wire moves and disengages the post. Repeat for all 4 posts and you can remove the air bag. The air bag has two connectors, 1 yellow and 1 red. If you are in a JY the battery should be disconnected and as far as I know there is no risk in removing these if that is the case. The yellow tab has a locking tab removing that allows you to free that clip. Red one can be just pulled and that should fall off as well. A 13/16 nut holds the steering wheel on you can loosen this and attempt to do the hammer method making sure to leave the nut on and hammer the wheel at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock and hit it hard enough it should release the friction from the splines and allow you to tug it off the nut is on there so you don't hit yourself in the face. If that fails you can undo the 2 torx T20 screws between the 4 slots in the back of the wheel to loosen the rear cover, with the combination switches removed this will let you slide the assembly down and leave you with the metal base. This will give you room to get a traditional pulley puller if you don't want to use the proprietary steering wheel puller from GM.

Aluminum tape works pretty well for keeping out the elements.

My experience: I was on a one track mind, socorob did such a good job not to follow in his footsteps would be silly. Finding the column: Junkyard: I found 3 Saturn Vue's on the yard, they only listed one when I searched, but the Saturn Vue Greenline/Hybrid is in another tab and doesn't cross reference. All 3 had their columns missing. One of the cars was on the yard for 3 days. I stalked the yard's website until they posted one, and went the day after and was able to pull the column. Wreckers: I also found a wrecking yard that had several Saturn Vue's. They did not reply to internet inquiries, but they picked up when I called. Most of these yards are still pretty old school and deal mostly over the phone from the last few I have dealt with, I was able to get the lower steering column for an additional fee, they were fairly generous with the harness, it was either a combination of me asking for it nicely or pointing out it only supplied the box on the column, they drove me out to the car and with a pair of dikes I pulled the wire through and cut the ground, took less then a minute. I picked up another column as they had the cheapest drive shaft for another project in the area so I would be going there to pickup parts anyways, and I'm kind of curious to see how cheaply it could be done via reusing stock parts. eBay: You can find quite a few online, although many posters are wrecking yards and will only post a picture of the vehicle, what you get may be different depending on their definition of column. Most listings with the column removed supply just the motor, many are missing the upper column shell, and almost all do not have the lower steering shaft, I have also yet to see a post with the power and ground harness. There are slight differences in the columns. The later model ones neck down to a much thinner diameter than the older ones as in my 2003 column is beefier looking than the 2007 column where the u-joints meet the collapsable column Price: Column: I paid $88 for my steering column from Pick and Pull, I was on a time restriction so I didn't have time to figure out the steering wheel, air bag, or column switches, otherwise it should be ~$45. On ebay they go for about ~$100 for the column, the lower steering shaft goes for another $60, complete sets seem to be about $200. Some listings are wreckers and you may be able to ask them to throw in the lower steering shaft. I called a local wrecker and paid $65 for the column from the wreckers, they threw in the lower steering shaft for another $20. I was also able to grab the power harness for free, your experience will greatly vary. Total parts: Saturn Vue column and the lower shaft $90 The woodward steering joint to adapt the datsun rack to a 3/4 DD was $87? $70 for the joint, $17 for shipping The 3/4" DD shaft was ordered on amazon, for almost the perfect length of 18" $22 2x R18ZZ bearings were ordered on ebay, $6 x 2 = $12 2 1/8 ID exhaust 548510 $3 CV boots Dorman 614-001 $14 x 2 = $28 Bruno controller $55 Subtotal: $297

I really like it! Much more cost effective for sure, good priority, true twin scroll. My only concern would be the size of the ting if there is room for it to reach down like that. I'd be curious to see how well everything flows. A little bit of murder might be taking place, but not nearly as much as before lol.

Happy coincidence? 40 years old it could just be about time for them to go.

I converted to H4 a while back so it was plug and play. The conversion should be in the earlier section of this thread. You can also buy a generic conversion kit, older jeeps used to use the sealed beams as well, they just require you to run a new wire for power to the battery and take everything else off the sealed beam plug for one head light to trigger and out put to two new H4 plugs.

I couldn't quite make out what the ground was grounding to, I imagine a ring terminal to the support bracket? I also didn't realize how the power cable was routed so I cut that, but I grabbed both ends so I'll put them together and try to use the stock line for power which saves me some trouble. Part of me thinks they may have charged me for the switches as the register said $65 for column with air bag, and the total was $80+ I'll have to look at the receipt. It isn't a screaming bargain, but still cheaper than piecing the parts together on ebay. The wreckers haven't gotten back to me so no news on that front. Currently stuck on freeing the punched section of the collapsible portion and waiting on bearings to arrive.

I tend to ramble and kind of go in a lot of directions with my thoughts, and felt it unfair to clutter up a nice thread like socorob has on his example of the install. So I'll be covering two topics, one is my attempt at the conversion. Second is some more information I found along the way. First off: There are more options out there! I struggled and had to run the day after one was put on the yard to get my column, the columns listed below should be in your local junkyards shortly if not already and are much more popular then a midsize american SUV so you should be spoiled for options. While it may not be an options for some, given our relatively light cars there are more options than just the 02-07 Saturn Vue and its clones. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/1008722-electric-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-needed-pics-videos.html To summarize, while there are several units on the market, these units specifically will provide modest assist without having to trick or hack the system. 2004-2009 Toyota Prius2009-2013 Toyota Corolla2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS works in Fail-Safe).2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (Non-ABS needs VSS signal or flashing LED)2007-2009 Nissan Versa2009-2012 Nissan Cube2012-2014 Kia Soul Basically these have fail-safe settings where when no ECU input is detected, the unit goes into an automatic pre-determined assist setting. Back a little more to the beginning. This seems to be one of the earlier mentions of the electric power steering. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/787114-best-200-mod-ever-eps-2.html The basic premise is to acquire the steering column and adapt the ends as needed. Given our long hood and rearward seating position it seems that we need the steering shaft in addition to the column to make it to the firewall, depending on how much of the stock system we choose to use. The cheapest and easiest would most likely revolve around using the stock steering shaft, cutting the shaft that goes into the chassis and mating it with the Vue motor output via a coupler, then once again via a coupler or welding attaching the datsun input to the saturn input. That unfortunately would most likely loose our collapsible column feature. Socorob's method corrects that by using the steering column from the vue which has a collapsable column as part of the system, then making a bespoke, but modular piece to mate the datsun rack to the saturn vue steering shaft. Given the number of joints (3) this requires a rigid fixture in addition to the fixed rack to lower the degrees of freedom for the movement. Socorob solves this by employing bearings at the firewall plate to support and to eliminate a degree of freedom. With that end taken care of it only leaves the mounting of the motor. The motor can be retained by the two bolts that hold the column, but would be further assisted by employing the pass through bolt used to mount the motor in the stock configuration in the Vue. Once mounted it is just a matter of adapting the saturn input to the datsun input/steering wheel. The electronics, there are 3 plugs on the 2002-2007 saturn Vue motor controllers. 1. Is the plug for the motor 2. Is the power and ground plug for the controller and motor 3. Is the VSS/ECU communication/ignition plug The bruno controller as far as I can workout without having it in my hands accomplishes two things. One it tricks the EPS controller into thinking it is communicating with the ECU, and second replaces the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) with a rheostat, which allow a user to manually adjust the effort supplied, usually freeway speeds would pretty much remove any assist, while speeds less than 10mph would ramp up the assist, so the box allows the rheostat to start by sending freeway speed signal and as you turn the knob up lowers the simulated VSS signal until it gets to parking lot levels which gives max assist. The bruno box comes with the communication plug. Almost all columns come with the plug for the motor Most columns do not come with the power/ground plug. Ask the seller to grab it for you if you are buying it after market, it is held in by 2 bolts, 1 on the battery with a big inline fuse, another under the dash where it attaches to a ground. Easily pulled by pulling undoing the nut for the power and cutting the ground wire. And lets not forget, for those who could not be bothered, there are 2 commercial options for our cars. Zcarpowersteering offers a kit for $1500 http://zpowersteering.com/store/ Silvermine offers a kit for $900 http://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30 Also the bruno controller can be found on eBay for quite a bit less, but all the little parts can be found on his site http://www.epowersteering.com/ What about hydraulic power steering? While a hydraulic power steering option is definitely viable, depending on the motor the correct pump or conversion fittings may be difficult to source. The racks that work seem to be miata or subaru in nature and require different tie rod ends to make the wheel base situation workout, they are pretty well documented. For some running hydraulics, making the appropriate brackets, sourcing the pulleys etc may be more tedious then some wiring and making a support bracket for an electric system. The benefit of the electric system is that it is adjustable and could be turned off if desired, not something you get with a hydraulic system.

The woodward joint has two grub screws with what almost appear to be drilling ends on them, you may be able to get away without notching them, but it would be a much better sense of security to do so as socorob suggests and probably some loc-tite of the blue variety would not go amiss. The 3/4"DD rod actually comes with a slot on one end for the bolt end that goes on the saturn steering shaft side so you can buy the 18" one and trim it down to the correct measurement before notching the joint for the grub screws on the other end.

Goodness, I clipped your quote as that is a bit ridiculous. If there is a certain section you would like to quote you can highlight it with your mouse and let go and after a second it should prompt you if you want to quote this. For example^ What wire how to are you referring to? The headlight relays? The sealed beam to H4 conversion? The LED housing?