Ed260Z

Bump

http://www.z31.com/differential.shtml

Someone was saying that the US Z32 tranny was very similiar to the GTS. I'd PM Stoney or 240Z_Master.

With Out Question!

I see you have most of the mechanical done. Are going to wire it in this week end? I want a sound bite!!!!!!!

There is a a place in Cali that is suppose to have a good rep. Their name is Venus Auto Parts. http://www.venus-auto.com/ As far as which engine, it depends on how high you plan to rev it. If your constantly going to be at high RPM's get the R33. JUN make a collar for the 32 that solves the Oiling problem, ($150 plus machining to get it onto the crank)

Dude I'm drooling,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I can't wait to get my swap started. I might have to put if off until the spring, seeing as how we just got a foot & a half of snow. Just one more reason why I should move to Cali.

If you mean fentin_fury he's got a S30 as well. But if you mean you also have a 280ZX who's cooler then you bro. I think I'll have to move to Cali just so I can be around more Z freaks like me. I can't remember the last time I saw another S30 by me. LOL

The big problem is the the S30's aerodynamics SUCK in a big way. So the car is inherently unstable to begin with at speed. The lower you can make the CG the better. Rick Wong and Q (240Z Master) both make mounts for the S30 that will put the engine as low as possible. But I think the Q is still refining his design.

All of the RB's have the same block. you need the mounts from a 200ZR (JDM 300ZX) to drop it into the S30. But this does not mount the engine in the ideal location. There are several posts on this subject already.

This is for his Yellow 240Z

I think I'm going to buy 2 cheap 2 1/16" guages, and see if I can make my own dual gauge out of the stock AMP/Fuel gauge. For now (until I change my mind again. LOL) I'm going for a boost/Fuel Press combo. If it works I'll re make them with higher quality internals.

You'll probably want to go with the 4.11 rear in the car. It will give you a better launch, and good on road characteristics. Should knock off over 1 sec from your time. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to fit the 26 intake on the 25, with out some serious fab work. That intake looks custom, or may be JUN, MINES, GREEDY, ect............

After going through thr RB manual a few times, to get more insite into this mod, I see that the intake has a water by-pass already. So why do this mod to begin with?

looks like a real nice & clean install. I hope mine comes out well, but I'm still worried about the wiring.

Does anyone want to elaborate more on this mod? Specifically the mod to the ITB's.

I'm going to go with a 3.5" from the down pipe to the muffler. And I'm going to notch the tranny support so that the pipe will fit up higher. I still want a dual look, so I think I'll mount the muff just behind the tranny. It will have two 2.5" outlets to make the "dual" look. A lot of modern performance cars do this the get the look of a dual. I'm going to fab up my own exhaust, and I wanted to know if a MIG welder is OK for this application? I don't have a shop, and I don't want flammable gas around the house. Thanks for the replies guys. Ed

Looking good so far. I'll be joining you soon. Are those dumps from SS auto chrome? I've read mixed reviews, but no one has said that they actually used them. I want to get their Exhaust Manifold & Dumps myself, since they seem to be the only ones that keep the stock placement of the turbos. What Rad are you using?

It seems that a single would be best, but a single 3.5" will be a tight fit. I'm thinking that a 3" Oval might be the way to go.

I was doing some more reading on this great thread listed above http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98786, and I saw a link to a co that makes oval tubing. That looks like a great solution to my clearance problem, but I would like to get a Dual look at the end.

The "Tool Box" behind the seats is not Square all the way down. It starts to taper forward about 3" down, and mets up with the front at a depth of 9". To make the Batt fit right you will need to cut into the under body of the car to make a true box. I hope you can follow me with that. I plan on relocating my batt as well, but I'm going to put where the spare is. (Or would have been, depending on how you look at it.) I will be replacing my 74 tank with one from a later model S30 (76-78), and in the process I will need to remove the tire well so that it will fit. That will also leave me plenty of room to weld in a Batt box just in front of the new tank.

The 2&5 wires need to be connected, and not the 2&3. I had connected them before because I got a lot of fluctuation on the gauge when I put on the accessories. This doesn't happen now so it must have been a bad Alt. (Which I changed in the middle of the swap, because I could)

It seems that on a N/A engine you want to keep some pressure in the exhaust system, to increase it's power. But does this hold true for Turbo applications? More specifically Twin Turbo'ed cars. A turbo wants 0 pressure in the pipes, so that it can flow as quickly as possible. So in the case of a TT application it seems to me that 2 pipes would be better than. Also when you take into account that a overly large pipe will not flow as quickly as a properly sized pipe. Ideally a TT motor making around 600HP wants a pipe that's 4-4.5", which is to big to fit under my Z. Now two 2.25" pipes (one for each turbo) will be easier to fit under the car. And with a smaller diameter it should have a much higher exhaust velocity. I'm no expert on the subject, and this more of a long winded question w/ explanation of my reasoning behind it. If I'm wrong please correct me.

Here is a link to the mounts J. Soileau RB26zcar found. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=ANH&mfrpartnumber=2265 If you click on what's it fit you'll see that it was designed for late 60 early 70's Dodge & Plymouth vehicles.

It's just the engine,tranny (AWD), ECU, & sensors. I think that this is worth the "penalty" of not having a front clip. I'll have to do a bit more head scratching, and I'm going to be spending some extra money on parts that I could have gotten off the clip. Like the factory boost control solenoid. (I was going to replace it eventually any way) I really wanted to install the engine completely stock to begin with. This way if I have any problems I can rule out any modification that I may have done. This will be a HUGE learning point for me, as I stooped working on EFI engines over 12 years ago. Never mind try and modify them safely. I'm almost surprised to hear that your mate's R33 is faster than his R34. I thought that the R34 was suppose to be the best out of the RB series. I know that the R32 had some issues that where corrected in the R33. I also thought that the R34 had revised turbos with Ball bearings, to help them produce more boost safely.