roger.svoboda

I think he is talking about the power transistor mounted up near the coil. I've got a zx but I think in that regard the z and zx are pretty similar. I've got a couple off a z31 that might well work for testing purposes. We are practically neighbors. Drop me an email to let me know when you are around and maybe we can get together and figure things out. Two heads and all that. I'm retired so pretty much anytime. krs@whidbey.com

first off cheapest thing to do is change the fuel filter probably $10. next get some fuel line hose, hose clamps, tee and a pressure gage. Probably run you under $20. put the tee in the fuel line after the fuel filter hook the pressure gage up to the open leg on the tee. See picture. what part of WA are you in? Check our club zccw.org plenty guys willing to give advice come to a meeting

well we could take a guess at what type Z you have for a start and then guess at some other things but if you had done some diagnostics like knowing the fuel pressure there are things that could be eliminated. when you hit the key does the starter engage and the engine turn over but not start. your post is not clear on that point.

Be sure it is tight into the tranny. Check the connection between the short cable in the dash and long one to the tranny. Be sure it is securely screwed into the speedo.

well if you think you got power to the starter issues then like I said prove out your battery cables. the amps don't just jump to the starter thru the air. needs a complete circuit positive to solenoid to the starter thru the starter and back to the battery via ground strap.

neither of you mention checking your fuel pressure nor your fuel pressure regulator. for the guy in the wrong place. product called color kut comes in a tube smear it on a wire and run down into the tank. if water it changes color. gas tank holds 19 gal

Check your battery cables for a start. no corrosion either end. no one size fit all clamp on terminals. Get the battery load tested to be sure it is fully functional - free most places. Battery terminals are tight not just pushed on. Ground bolt tight and starter nut tight. If all that is good then your starter is having issues. next time it happens rap the starter lightly with a ball peen hammer. if it works after that you definitely have starter issues.

you can probably buy a running 280zxt for 1500 bucks and no it ain't just a drop in you need ecu and maf for a starter plus the wiring harness. $1500 the guy must have thought you were a tuna with a 2/0 hook already set. P90a heads are standard issue. do a search plenty of info on how to do it and what you need with a leettle effort on your part.

might help to know what z you are talking about and a year

might help to know what kind of z it is. s30, s130, z31 ,z32 and a year

1,2,3 and 3. NO. Ashort is a hot wire touching another wire that is grounded or goes thru a grounded device. A ground is a hot wire physically touching ground (in this case the car frame and body. You need two wires to make a circuit one to supply electricity and one to bring it back to the source. In automotive circles the frame/body is used as the second wire. EX: A +12vdc wire goes to a light bulb terminal the other terminal is connected to ground thru a short piece of wire from the other terminal thus completing the circuit and lighting the light. A relay is simply a device that connects this circuit by means of a small coil current closing some contacts (switch). The relaly only uses coil current regardless of how much current it supplies to the lights thu the contacts. until you decide to study electricity you are stumbling around in the dark. A fuse blows when too much current flows thru it.

you need to get a vom (VoltOhmMeter or multimeter) and learn how to use it. Get a pretty good one at Harbor Freight under $20. Invaluable for troubleshooting elecrical problems. Digital or Analog I like the analog better for what you are doing and they are cheaper. If you know a bunch about electricity the digital does somethings better.

that is called the clutch fork fulcrum pin if you want to buy one

ground or short and a big one to blow a 30 amp fuse that is enough to fry 16 ga wire. IF it blows after you activate the switch which should activate the relay I'm guessing the wiring to the lights has got some real issues. but again you said you only messed with the combo switch wireing so maybe you just shorted the power lead to the relay. Yes the relay can be bad but just remove it from the circuit and activate it with jumpers this will tell you what is wrong. You really need to learn some basic electricity google search on the web will tell you all this with pretty pictures.

You must never have heard of Lucas "The Prince of Darkness"

you got it. if you power the relay and it clicks and you get no lights then the relay conacts have lost power from whatever constant source the PO selected. If the lights come on then the relay is working and wired correctly. In that case the problem is that no 12vdc signal from the combo switch is reaching the relay. This could be no power to the combo switch or the wire from the combo switch to the relay is faulty. given that it was working until you worked on the combo switch I would suspect you somehow lost the power feed to the combo switch. But you need to check everything because there are a lot of variables here. a. is there power to the relay contacts? b. is there power to the combo switch? c. is power getting from the combo switch to the relay. Way out of the box but possible is that the wiring from the relay to the lights is faulty. Have you traced down the wires involved via the schematic in the fsm? Is the relay mounted in a socket and somehow got jarred loose? You are getting light power directly from some constant source thru the relaly - forget the combo switch in this case. The original system was dirrect power to the lights thru the combo switch but that was found over the years to be a poor choice. So the relay only takes like 50 milliamps to operate and will handle 10 amps. solution to the burnt out combo switch. you need to understand how a relay operates. do a google search plenty of elementary descriptions of the operation. When I say jump 12v to the relaly I mean to the coil terminals. one side +12v the other side to ground. polarity is not an issue but be sure what side of the relay coil is grounded check it with a VOM

you are going at it backwards. the switch operates the relay. If you have no power to the switch then you will have no power to operate the relay coil. As I said jump 12v to the relay in question it should click and the lights should come on. But since the last thing you did (always ask yourself that question when stuff stops working) was play with the combo switch I'm thinking you disconnected the power lead to the switch. Look at the top of the relay and you will see a circuit diagram (or should anyway) which show you the contacts and the coil terminal numbers. Again don't discount the PO not making very good electrical connections and one of them pulled apart. two wires twisted together with tape over them is not a secure connection. Ok for testing but after that crimp connector for the lazy. solder and heat shrink for those who want to reduce the failure chances.

the signal wire for the relay coil would come from the stalk switch so that may be the issue. the relays would take power for the lights direct from the battery (or constant source somewhere). At least this would be the logical way to wire. I would start by verifying 12 vdc at the relay contacts. Next find out if you get 12vdc signal at the relay coil when the switch is activated. PO might have been one of those guys who think twisting two wires together with some tape is a solid electrical connection. to test the relay operation just jump 12vdc and ground to the relay coil.

clutch hard line from master to slave. console cover. pedal assembly. Might as well change the pilot bushing cheap and you are right there. Make sure the clutch fork fulcrum pin is sound but for $6 I'd just put in a new one. Might as well do the tranny input shaft bearing another failure spot often. You need to bypass the auto tranny interlocks to start it. If not new get them master and slave cylinder. Tranny jack is a good thing to have. Rent someplace or buy at harbor freight $50 if I remember. Three 12" extensions for your socket set to reach the bolts from under the car.

less than a pint

use redline by the way best tranny oil I've found. the fill plug is the one on hte side the drain plug is on the bottom and has a magnet to show you all the neat metal shavings that come out of the tranny.

Easier to fill it while sitting on hte ground. Then duct tape a plastic bag around the tail end so you don't spill fluid all over the place when moving around. As long as you keep it level you won't get any spills but sometimes things happen. While you have it out be sure you can remove the fill plug as well as the drain plug. You can fill it in place but either need to go thru the shifter boot or a long hose out and under from the car in the fill hole then utilize gravity to fill but usually a two person job and messy.

have you changed the fuel filter lately? Have you checked your fuel pressure? That would be the first thing to look at. You need air, fuel and spark to run so be sure your are getting air and fuel.

You need a piece of aluminum flatbar 4" x 1/16 or 1/4 to fab up the piece. When you remove the stock unit you will find a plastic carrier piece that you can either bolt or pop rivet the flat bar to it. Run new wire for the rear speakers. Use the original wiring for the fronts they are too hard to get at to run new. Look on the fsm wiring diagram and you can figure out what color wires nissan used to run the stock radio. match them up to your unit's hook up diagram. If you are going to use crimp connectors (soldering is recommended) then cut the wires different lengths or you wind up with a wad of connectors all in the same place. the reason you want new wires aft is that nissan used common ground for front/rear left/right. Modern units much prefer eight separate wires for the audio section. be sure to insulate the old wires in hte rear so they don't short out. i made a cardboard template first to get a fit for the mounting plate then transferred that to the aluminum. If you want to go plastic Car Toys or Crutchfield has a kit that works.

Maybe I'M thinking of the z31. looked at the fsm for the s130 and it seems that there is only one light. Appeared to be on the thin edge looked to be a hole. Get the fsm and check out that section. apparently that light doesn't show much. However I do know stick auto doesnt' make much difference cause I put a 5 speed in a 81zxt and it ran just fine.