roger.svoboda

they got red and green lights and you won't have a problem with a stick. You have to have the ecu out laying on the floor to see them.

couldn't make out your thread to well but the ecu and maf from the z31 are considered superior to the standard 280zxt. If the turbo is in good shape then use that as the watercooled ones last better than the stock s130 model. Some people like the seats better but you need to squeeze them in. you could go 5 lugs and have better front wheel brakes but what about the back. 86 didn't have clsd rear end. but maybe the r200 would work better in the s30

junkyard that is a part that is usually still in the carcass.

first gear early shift sounds like what I had. Do you know the know that the kickdown solenoid is working? Also that vacuum modulator has something to do with that. When you slam it to the flloor the kickdown solenoid is actuated by a switch but just easing off the line the vacuum modulator is supposed to regulate the shift point.

hopefully you bought a pcv valve and not one made out of pvc. Just because a part is new doesn't mean it is good. Is it installed correctly? the fact that you can block it off and the car runs better means it is leaking and the manifold is not under proper pressure due to this air leak.

might not be the engine at all. I had an 81T on which someone disconnected the kickdown solenoid. It was a dog off the line also but once you got up to 45 she took off like a scalded cat. After a week or so of getting used to the car I pulled it into 1st one day at a light and wow away we went. Found the disconnected wires for the solenoid and when connected made all the difference. There is also a vacuum modulator that determines shift points. Never did figure out how to adjust that as I decided to put in a 5 speed instead.

look around the radiator cap for green crud. I've had two that cracked at the neck and needed to be resoldered. You don't notice much until the car is at operating temperature but if you look closely you may see the leakage then. Unless the head gasket is popped and the oil looks crappy. You need to look at everything while it is hot. The hose from the radiator to the expansion tank can get kinked and the fluid is then forced out the radiator cap instead of going to the expansion tank. when it cools it then sucks the fluid out of hte expansion tank.

far as I know everything is the same as far as mounting unless you are talking 2+2 to a coupe and even then I think everything forward of the door is the same.

any mechanical pressure gage will work probably 0 to 60 or 80 psi is plenty. Get a cheap oil pressure gage at one of the auto stores or Harbor Freight. Less than $10 plus you need some hose a tee and some clamps. whole thing shouldn't be more than $15.

get your battery load tested sounds bad from your description. Be sure your battery cable terminals are clean and corrosion free. If you have those one size fit all clamp-ons get some real cables. What is a morot?

probably by the passenger's right foot. that is where all the other years I have looked at have it.

might be gunked up. you might take it off and clean it up with carb cleaner or other solvent. it is sort of an electrical solenoid. Or get a stethoscope and see if that is really what is clicking.

is there a little paper tag in the glove box with a weird xxxxx number on it? that is your key code. If not pull the cylinder out of the hatch. that should have the original number stamped on it. A competent locksmith ie not home depot or the local hardware store should be able to cut keys to the original code. The parts guy at my local nissan dealer can look at it and give you the code. He may just be very good and the only one in the usa who can but that is worth a try. Performance Nissan Everett WA. If all else fails you might try calling them and sending it up there. i thought he was putting me on but after two z's I believe him.

probablly all the bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints and shocks are gone. z31 suspension wasn't that great to start with. Are you checking the boost with the stock boost gage? It is calibrated in mm of mercury not psi. If she runs and you are a fair wrench you can get it going. Depends on the cost. Look for rust especially in the rear under the carpet. those triangle windows leak. the t-tops may well leak another z31 weakness. Idling problem could just be a vacuum leak. Don't know about prices in your area but in Seattle I wouldn't pay much over $1000 if that. If it is a real anniversary edition then that is worth something. Do a search on what to look for in AE cars. If owner not touting that then it probably isn't. Not sure about the wheels Maybe? If you got the bucks you might consider a z32. I think they are prettier than the z31 but they don't carry much cargo. i got a 86T for a thou up here but it had a lot of small things wrong with it. Now that I have them straightened out and replaced the bushings, tie rods and ball joints I enjoy driving the beast.

leaf blower stapped into the intake system would give you some boost and its cheap. otherwise you need to get a turbo that works. It will drive around okay without the turbo but be a real dog.

If totally drained you should have no problem.

I put an 81 n/a 5 speed in a 81 turbo. It worked just fine. I'm not dumping the clutch at every light nor trying to turn 8 sec quarters either. Nor do I drive like a little old lady on the way to the market.

a relay is a relay. How complicated can it be? they come in many flavors find one that duplicates the original and use it. Probably something standard bosch makes. look on the relay usually there is a circuit diagram on the case else take the case off and look at the contacts you know it is a 12 volt coil so that part is easy.

auxiliary lights only come on when you are on low beams (and you push the button). it is the middle one on the right. what does the fog light button look like?

riding the clutch, improperly installed, wrong bearing, two faulty in a row is a low probability.

yes a marginal battery will fail while sitting. for a start buy a cheap $5 ammeter and hook it up between one of the battery cables and the battery terminal. since ammeter reads either way polarity not an issue. If you see a current draw you will know immediately that there is a problem. pull fuses until the draw is gone. If it isn't a fused circuit then you have some real detective work to do. If the needle doesn't move or maybe just twitches then you can go to a cheap vom on the 10 amp scale (Harbor Freight under $20) but now you have to get the polarity right. If you see a draw then again fuses. If you have a security system you probably will see a draw. Have the battery load tested at a battery place they usually do it free. Be sure your battery cables are clean and free of corrosion at BOTH ENDS. If you have those crappy one size fit all clamp on cable ends get some real battery cables NOW.

I think it is not called the cylinder head temperature sensor in the catalogs of the parts people. Ask if they show two heat sensors. ONe of them will only have one pin connector that is for the coolant temperature. The other will have a two pin connector. That is the one we refer to as CHTS. Got one from Napa and one from Action Auto. Maybe things have changed that was like a year or two ago. But I do remember they called it something different but it was the correct item and solved my problems.

Maybe because they are easily obtainable. I've gotten two one for the 85T and one for the 86T. Just ordered them and they magically appeared at the correct time and place.

napa, schucks, autozone etc. etc. dealer even

ecu probably work. try it can't do worse