roger.svoboda

make sure you didn't bust a fan belt. Lights could be alternator bad. Clutch could be just bad luck and master/slave went out. My son and I had the z31 up on jackstands changing the alternator and we let it down clutch wouldn't work. Wass up we said looking at each other stupidly. Just coincidence. Put in new master everything okay in the clutch dept. Go figure.

If you can find the correct input flange to the diffy you can use a stock driveshaft. One is square and one is round. Driveline NW in Everett quoted me $100 to cut my two stock ones in half and weld up one with the proper input and output pieces. Found the right input flange and saved that $100. Hey Oak harbor check out our z club zccw.org.

Change the chts it is cheap insurance and often affects the engine performance. Who quoted you on the chts? ask around a couple places I'm pretty sure I paid $30-35 about 6-7 months ago. Believe it was napa course prices kinda rising fast these days but that chts makes for bad juju when not working correctly. At a minimum pull it out put the ohmeter on it clean the connector really good look for busted wires what have you.

not sure if this is germain BUT when I changed the head gasket on a 280zxt I did the newbie dumb thing and dropped the timing chain. Pulled the cover off to get at it and several of the bolts were the long thin guys. So I clean everything up wirebrush the bolts. The one that is longest and close to the hydraulic steering pump was covered in goo. After everythng was buttoned up and running got water running out of that bolt. Did a brain drain on my mentor and he said he didn't think there was a way for the water to get in the oil the way the block was made. I pulled the leaker coated it liberally with rtv and put it back in. Stopped the leak and she ran fine after that.

buy some allthread and make it a stud instead of a bolt.

Pull as many connectors apart as you can and look for corrosion (like maf or tps etc). I guess first thing I'd try would be the cylinder head temp sensor after that. If it keeps running but won't accelerate it probably isn't related to the sparking system (which sometimes fail due to heat). So something failing when she gets hot which kind of points to electronic gizmos. fuel pump wouldn't fail from engine heating up as it is out in the air by the rear wheels. Could be fuel vaporization but that would be way out there cause. CHTS was like $30 from napa not long ago as I remember.

trouble being the output spline of the slushbox is different (larger) than the the output spline of the manual. (this was an 81 Turbo) I found out when I put it in gear and nothing happened. Dummy I says how can you put a clutch in wrong. but the the tranny was just spinning inside and the drive shaft wasn't making contact with anything. Had to get a 5 speed driveshaft and input flange to the diffy to match for things to work. If talking about n/a slushbox to n/a 5 speed might not have that problem but something to think about when you convert.

I admire your loyalty to Z's but that sure be a lot of work unless you got parts scattered around.

after heating it try whacking the end real good with a hammer a few times. idea being you need to shock loose the corrosion that is holding that bugger. Take off the piece that it used to hold and you can get another 1/2 inch to grab hold of.

did it keep on leaking or just a spurt then stop? Just having changed starter on z31 see no way you would get coolant from those bolts. bolts thread into starter. If you had coolant in the bell housing then you got a leak somewhere. Head gasket??? Freeze plug like suggested above. If the bell housing were full of coolant don't think your clutch would work well. I'd probably Pull the tranny (might want to know if your clutch has coolant on it anyway) start the engine let it get hot see if you spot any leakage. Could put some ultraviolent dye in the coolant and black light it for a leak spot. Just remember coriolus effect is backwards south of the equator

On my 81 I just cut the hose going to the waste gate and put the boost controller in there. outlet to the waste gate inlet. pressure from the volute to the boost controller. you must adjust the boost controller to get correct boost. Be sure you don't kink hose. Son did that on the z31 and he got like 25 psi boost cause the boost controller never saw boost pressure.

It can be done need lots of parts so you need to find a 5 speed at the junkyard and get what you need like flywheel, clutch pedal, clutch master/slave cylinder, hydraulic line. Also sometime have trouble matching driveshaft. Search around I did a fair writeup when I did my 81 turbo. All the holes are there etc. only thing missing is the bracket for the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line but you can live without it. Jump out the safety switches at the fuse block is easiest place to get to.

81 turbo came with an auto tranny and there are inhibitor switches that prevent you starting the car in gear. They could be a problem. Does the starter turn the engine but she just won't start or does the starter not turn the engine. You can't hardly get the timing so far off that it won't start unless you drop the oil pump as that drives the dizzy. Are you getting spark??? pull a plug lay it on the block with wire attached crank engine see if it sparkles. Also you can flood the engine to the point where it won't start unless you disconnect the fuel pump hold throttle wide open crank until it fires. Do that a few times until you get no pops. then reconnect fuel pump and see if it starts. Be sure your battery cables are clean (both ends) free of corrosion. Have the battery load tested you can get it done free most battery shops. ZX are really finicky about having enough voltage for the electronics to work. Try making your post a bit clearer as to what you observe what you did. You'll get better answers if you give better informatiion.

you would probably get some better answers if you described your problems more thoroughly. You shotgunned about 3 or 4 different things there in one sentence.

make sure the connector went back on the maf properly and is clean and free corrosion. Plug in out a couple times to be sure.

You say you got shocked thru the distributor housing which would indicate you got 5 Kv or whatever going to the plugs is. You wouldn't feel 12 volts SOOOOOOOOOOO you provided a path of lesser resistance to ground than the plug and plug wire. WERE the plugs installed or just laying on the block. are the wires good? particularly the wire from the ignitor to the top of dizzy. Only common thing going to the plugs. But I don't quite understand how you are testing the stuff. I would put it all together lay the plugs on the block and hit the starter see if you see sparkles. Do it at night in a dark spot and see if you see sparlkles where there shouldn't be sparkles. You say you are turning it by hand on the bench so where do see if anything is sparking.

since you spent all that money on the other stuff you might want to invest in a timing light they aren't that expensive.

If it is spraying out then it is fluid under pressure which is the supply hose to the ram. The return hose has little or no pressure on it. Look for loose connections or blown hose on the supply hose which is the lower one leaving the pump. the return goes to the reservoir. Out side chance there is a crack in the pump housing or the seal is gone but that would be a rarity. Hose the most likely culprit.

your post doesn't make a lot of sense. try expanding your description of the problem. Leaks under power. leaks sitting in driveway.??????????? doesn't leak when filling sounds like you are confusing the reservoir for the pump.

since you are looking for the quick and easy. Yes will do fine. Plug off the relief valve you aren't talking 1200 psi here. If you haven't done the other easy things like improved air intake system and improved exhaust flow I would also address that particularly the intake system. Did the same on my 81 and she ran fine and still is according to the guy who owns her now. Might want to advance the timing a tad.

well that is a solution if you like uglly on the dash

You neglected to state whether you have analog or digital dash. If analog probably fuse. If digital anyone's guess without looking things over. bring it along to our next club meeting zccw.com we have a lot of members in the norht end be glad to give out free advice. You have probably seen me drive by in a black 83.

Do you have a good battery (load tested) and battery cables with no corrosion. Start there. Basic stuff first.

Don't confuse the bell housing and the stuff bolted to the back with the T5 tranny. the T5 tranny in the zxt has three pieces. tranny itself, bell housing and shifting stuff seal etc in the rear. So it is possible that a bare T5 might take the bell housing and shifter stuff. You'd have to get one and see if those compontents fit.

you need to tell us what gage panel you have analog or digital. If digital since you say bars they are a problem. I'd pull the console out look at the connections. Check the printed circuit conductors for corrosion or melted. clean connections to the unit clean connections to the sender. check continuity or wiring from sender to gage. You need to be a bit more explicit in stating your problems. You'll get help if people can understand what you are asking.