roger.svoboda

pull the drive cable out of the sheath to be sure it isn't broken. if it is whole then be sure the connections are tight. to test the speedo itself you need to pull the module out that houses the speedo and other gages. an electic drill with a match stick in it is usually sufficient to drive the speedo to be sure it is working. but your problem is most likely to be poor connection broken cable.

if you read the guys post he probably knows more about turbos than half the replies I read above which indicate that people don't understand how a wastegate works nor why having the pov is a waste of metal.

when you say your fuses look good - what does that mean? only way to really check a fuse is with a vom. I've seen them with broken conductor that look good but don't work. another failure point is the fuse block itself. be sure nothing is broken that holds the fuse. another possibility is loose/broken wire. take your fsm pdf to a kinko's or the like and have them blow up the schematic pages to 11x17. makes it a lot easier to read. you can easily check the relay with a vom and put 12 v to the coil. most relays have a wire diagram on the cover.

I did the front end on two z31's and made them both drive like a different car. If you haven't tried it don't knock it. also an S130. If you think all it does is reduce front end shaking then you must like driving a car that wallows down the road like a drunken pig. the other benefit is it goes where you point it not willy nilly.

if you don't replace tie rod ends, ball joints and put in poly bushings all that other fancy gear is a waste.

what aarang said should solve your problem unless mr. turbo died. get rid of the pov no matter what. not needed.

how did you determine you have no spark? do you have fuel pressure? you need to describe what you have diagnosed in order to get a reasonable answer otherwise all you get is flamed. pictures of wires are really of little value. download the fsm from xenon. look at the schematic and find the wires by color you have questions on and you too will know the answer.

do a search the z31 ecu/maf conversion is documented someplace. might be on xenon. learn to use google.

GREAT PRESSURE is not a number you need to know what it is. too high injectors deliver too much fuel. too low they don't deliver enough.

get a new cap rotor and plug wires. plugs use the ngk in the manual they work best. take all the electrical connectors apart and clean them. afm tps ecu. download the fsm from xenon wealth of into there and the fi bible.

get a noid light and see if the injectors are getting a pulse. If not then you need to start tracing wiring back to the ecu. what is your fuel pressure? if not at spec (30-36psi) she won't run. just cause you got a new pump means nothing without checking the pressure at the rail. download the fsm from xenon if you haven't done so already.

a thousand maybe

first to second always an issue because the cars get abused by idiots who don't know how to drive. you can get synchros but diving into a tranny not for a newbie wrench or the faint of heart. the cv shafts should just plug into the diffy if both are the R200 but if an R180 then they are diffent lengths. depending on your budget you might want to consider giving it to a tranny shop and do the in/out yourself. the auto output spline may not match the input spline of the n/a drive shaft. problem I had putting 5 speed in an 81 turbo. Put it all together and she no go say I how can you screw up a clutch. but the output from the 5 speed smaller than the input to turbo drive shaft. what does using tires have to do with the tranny or the diffy????? don't know that suspension changed. I think all s130 the same

fusible links. get a vom and learn about electricity

since you have the donor car at hand shouldn't be much of a problem. took me a couple junk yard trips to get all the gear needed. you might have driveshaft matching issues in re spline sizes and input flange sizes. take out the whole cage holding the pedals easier than trying to swap individual pedals. it is the four bolts holding the brake booster plus two small ones over to the left. it will seem like it doesn't want to come out but if you wiggle and cuss. wiggle and cuss again it suddenly jumps right out disconnect the clutch and brake cylinder rods of course. tip take out the seats and roll the windows down before you disconnect the battery. if possible to do a pressure wash of the wheel wells and what else you can reach you don't get as much dirt in the eyes. tranny jack or a friend that can bench press 150 highly recommended. while there you might consider new rear engine seal, clutch plate, throwout bearing and clutch fork fulcrum pin, pilot bearing. the mountings are there for the clutch hydraulics but the bracket that holds the clutch hose is missing on the auto car. No biggy I just left mine hanging no problem. I would also replace the master and slave cylinder for the clutch. they always seem to fail at a very bad time and place. you say donor car has been rode hard and put up wet so parts like cylinders are suspect.

too bad I threw the one I had away. personal choice ugliest thing i ever saw on a Z car

those of you talking about 240 and etc might note that he claims a 79 280zx in his signature. perhaps he got a 280z set because he didn't correctly identify what car he wanted them for. newbies often don't realize the 280z and the 280zx have different bodies altho on quick glance they look a lot alike.

get a welding machine and start adding steel OR as suggested above cut your losses and buy one that is running and not rusted out. for 3K you could have gotten a nice one.

try napa they usually get it right. make sure you differentiate between a 2+2 and coupe.

did you hot wire the pump to be sure it runs. if you did and it did then yes relay or broken wire someplace I'm in mill creek if you want some help you can contact me at krs@whdbey.com direct be glad to take a look at what you got.

they look the same. the 79-81 lights were one style and the 82-83 were different. there was an aftermarket hideous looking piece that said 280zx turbo or some such which you might see on some cars.

jack up one wheel. put it in gear. If you can turn the wheel easily your clutch is not engaged. if you can't turn it have somene step on the clutch and see what happens.

download the Factory Service Manual from xenon's site (try google search it is wondrous tool). do a search for the fuel injection bible another useful fount of information. put a fuel pressure gage in line between the filter and the rail. fuel pressure should be around 30 pse idle rise to 36 with some throttle. attached is a rig you can make for under $15 to check your fuel pressure. when you get the FSM try reading it putting it under your pillow at night does no good at all. jump a 12 volt hot line direct from battery to fuel pump. don't forget the ground if it runs you will hear it. you should hear it run for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key to on. if the pump is running and delivering pressure to the fuel rail then probably fuel pump relay is a goner ONCE AGAIN READ THE MANUAL

if you can't feel anything then you didn't bleed correctly or slave/master cylinder shot. replace them both if one is gone the other will follow soon.

injector cooling fan probably