roger.svoboda

if you are going to change shocks you should first consider doing the front end suspension. ball joints, tie rod ends and bushings this will give the car a lot nicer handling than changing shocks. it is a joy when the car goes where you point it rather than wandering the road like an uncoordinated drunk. I've done all. just replaced shocks (got em free also). reduced rear end squat under acceleration but didn't help the wandering between the white lines while driving on a wavy road. after doing front suspension really nice handling.

no mine just stopped providing electricity. I just cut the wires and bypassed the connector.

did you look at the connector from the switch to the main harness. Mine had a burnt contact and wasn't allowing curent to pass. also check the lighting relay EL38 in the fsm

depends on what you call running hot. Not a very technical descriptiion. If you are depending on the stock gage to give you an answer DON'T. notoriously unreliable. get hold of a infrared temp gun and see what temp the coolant is running at.

disconnect the cold start injector and see if that cures the noise. if not then something else is wrong

what would that tell you?

I used a 90 degree exhaust elbow of the proper diameter. K&N filter. brazed a hunk of flat bar on the elbow to keep it in place used one of the M6 bolts below it where convenient. works just fine. K&N has a calculator on their site. put in rpm, displacement tells you what filters will be enough. turned out one that was a stock item at Schucks was sufficient and not too expensive.

aha need to cough up some bucks is the answer. Thanks

went to settings. there were five categories none of them user name. General, change password, Notes, attachments, notifications, your notifications. what am i missing here? Thanks

the title says it all Thanks

take it to a battery shop they will load test the battery and test the charging sytem for FREE if you go to the right place. better than the minimum wage clerk at Oreillys generally.

bad fuel pump or bad fuel pump relay or mouse been chewing on the wiring.

don't depend on stock gages for a good reading. if worried put in a real gage otherwise probably ok.

probably flooded it. hold the gas pedal down to the floor with the fuel pump disconnexcted and crank for a long time. get a couple of pops good. do it again. no more popes reconnect fuel pump and try for a start. why do you need to plug the oil temp hole. get the sensor and reconnect it otherwise it is a dry hole why worry mate. probably not a bolt thread.

it is screwed into a well so unthread the sensor now that lock nut is out (if my memory is still working)

L on jap wiring diagrams means blue if you haven't figured that out yet it helps.

use CAIG Deoxit to clean the connectors the stuff is magic. You might want to read the definition and use of dielectric grease before you go smearing it all over the place. It is an insulator not a conductor.

coolant temp sensors were on the s30. the s130 goes in a dry hole and actually reads the metal temp. Have you tried some on line stores do a google search can't be that hard to find

step one READ THE MANUAL. having it under your pillow at night will not help. use google to do a web search or the search feature on this website. You might want to get a basic book on how automotive engines work. without at least a limited working knowledge of how a fourstroke cycle internal combustion engine with spark ignition works you are not going to be able to understand the advice you are given. lots of things on forums get abbreviated because they are used all the time. when one like chts pops up search on that you'll probably find what you are looking for. Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. feeds a signal to the ECU telling it to lean down because the engine is hot. Don't know why bluez would think that an ignition problem would produce black smoke but hey everyone has an opinion. i'd say you have to solve your fuel delivery problems and have good vacuum for a start. with the engine idling pull the oil filler cap on top the engine. if she runs worse that is good. If evrything stays the same you most likely have some vacuum leaks to repair. If the attachment feature works there will be a pic of a cheap homemade fuel presssure check device. It goes in between the fuel filter (which if you haven't changed you might as well) and the piping atop the engine which feeds the injectors. fuel pressure should be around thirty psi at idle and to up to 36 when you gun it. Don't neglect what I said about battery maintenance. Most people kinda ignore it but it is the heart of the electrical system and if not in top conditiion will cause weird problems. I had that heartache with a Brand New Battery so ASSUMED that was not my problem and kept working on other things to cure my troubles. Finally had eliminated a lot of stuff with a lot of work. Took it to the shop for a load test. It was marginal and they replaced it with a new one. All the weird stuff stopped happening. And that is your last freebie next one will be flamed

replace the temp sensor so that the gage works but not related to anything else. replace chts may help the black smoke issue (these are two different units don't confuse them. one has two pins the other only one. download the fsm from xenon so you can look things up before coming here as you will likely get flamed big time with a post such as the one above. often times from me but I am feeling charitable tonight after three glasses of wine. hard starting get your battery load tested at a reliable battery shop usually FREE (and the charging system while at it). check your battery cables for loose and/or corroded terminals. If some jerk put those one size fit all clamp on terminals get some new for real cables those things are a problem waiting to die while you are out driving to Kamloops but still 100 miles to go. Ground cable should go to a bolt about a foot below the battery and thence to the starter. Grounding through the tranny bolts is not a reliable ground and zx are not liking low voltage for running their electronics. My hard start problem disappeared when my starter died and I replaced it. figure it was either not spinning the engine fast enough or pulling enough amps out of the syatem to bolix the electronics. now it starts if you look hard at the key. if you are around vacouver they have a z club there with some very knowledgeable folks you should make contact with them or see if there isa club in your area. If you want to drive south you can look our club up in Seattle.

nvever messed around with a z but sounds like what they call the water temp sensor is analogous to the cylinder head temp sensor used on s130 and z31. in which case yes it would affect how things run.

If indeed you did disconnect the water temp sensor then someone had the wrong wire running to it as it has absolutely nothing to do with the ecu or how the engine runs. It has one function make the gage tell you the coolant temperature ( of course with stock gage it is problematical whether the temp it shows has anything to do with reality). Assuming you have a zx you didn't see fit to make the type car you are talking about available to the general public.

see my reply to your post on ? probably zcar.com

vacuum leak on surging. compression might be valves.

most vom won't react fast enough to detect the pulse a noid light is the best way. do a google amazon had some for cheap.