roger.svoboda

it is on the end of the steering column between that and the rack. I don't understand how you could wear one out. I've got 250+K on an 85t and my 83 n/a. They are both in fine shape. Took them off just to look after posts on people having worn them out. Maybe a kid sitting there every day moving it lock to lock about 10 times?

carfiche.com or xenon site have downloadable fsm. Circuit diagrams in there. On jap wiring diagrams L = blue. that is sometimes a confusion for people.`

could be something binding up. Jack up the front end so both wheels are hanging in the air. You should be able to grab a tire and force the steering lock to lock by hand. Be sure the key is in so you don't have the ignition lock stopping things. Have someone move wheels with the steering wheel and watch what happens. There have been posts by people who found the u joints in the stering column to be bad and caused hard steering. They come apart pretty easy. Couple of lock bolts to come out and probably some hammer work to move it on the splines.

solenoids don't spin they only go in and out.

run a hot wire direct to the solenoid and see what happens. if it turns over then the starter is okay. after that you need fuel, fire and air.

ecu codes are usually little help . Fuel temp sensor the car will run with or without. read my post and get the information i pointed out is needed to give you a reasonable guess at where to go next. or hire a psychic.

alternator voltage regulator is bad or connections are incorrect. some alts internal regulator some external depends on the year.

the cas is on the front of the 81 motor and in the dizzy on the 83. besure you have switched the appropriate wires to account for those differences in the engine.

when you say it turns over but won't stay on what does that mean. The starter cranks the engine and it trys to run but dies or it just doesn't do anything but turn the engine. Check your fuel pressure unless that is how you decided the fuel pump was okay. Did it use to run? what led up to the non running condition. Your explanation of what happened and what steps you have taken to diagnose the problem isn't very clear nor coherent. Pull a spark plug (not the easiest thing on a z31 but necessary) leave it connected and laying where it contacts metal so it has a ground. have someone crank the engine and see if you are getting spark to the plug. if no spark then pull the coil wire out of the dizzy and hold it close to some metal part while someone cranks the engine. If no spark there then coil and/or igniter (power transistor power module) is bad. If you do get spark there then dizzy or ignition wires are at fault. Look inside dizzy for broken pieces. the z31 dizzy is known to fail internally. remember you need air, fuel and fire to make things work. Check for bird/mouse nest in the air intake. air filter thoroughly plugged? fuel pressure you need to know in case the fpr failed. Do some more diagnostics and try another post with more info.

if it runs ecu probably okay. chts usually shows up as bad running while warming up or after warm up. I'd start checking into the idle components and the air regulator. if the aar is stuck closed car isn't getting extra air during start. if unsure about the chts just change it. easy job cheap part. idle up solenoid and aux air contol. get the fsm from xenon for more info.

Do you know for sure which diffy you have? It could be an R200. The R200 is roughly square about 8" across and the R180 more rectangular about 6" wide (horizontal). Do a search someone posted pics of the two side by side on one of the forums. you need different half shafts due to the width of the R200 at least one anyway.

what kind of friend is it that you don't trust him? burnt oil smells like burnt oil. if you want to know what it is pour some in a pan. heat it on the stove til it catches fire. sniff that you will now know what burnt oil smells like. If you think it looks like oil and whatever it probably is. are we talking auto tranny or manual you didn't specify.

windows not working is probably in the switches on the door. The contact strips get worn and don't make contact. Hard to explain without taking it apart. I should have taken pics when I did it. the other stuff. Go thru the basics. Battery good and load tested good. Fully charged. Battery cables clean, tight and free of corrosion on both ends (lots of people ignore this but hey no battery no workee). Check fusible links clean, tight and freee of corrosion. If you have all that proven good you can start on more exotic solutions.

battery cables and battery charge

those are balance drillings. when they balance the unit that is how they make it right. Opposite of wheel weights on a tire balance. Probably any pulley you look at will be different. As to difference between years I'd go with the if they look the same and fit go with it. Check the notch for TDC. But hey a pulley is a pulley.

when you check the fuel pressure that will verify the FPR. Have you looked at the AFM? lots of posts on fiddling with it. If the ecu doesn't think the engine is getting air it won't give it any fuel. Here is a pic of the fuel pressure rig i made. When i talked about the battery cable I was thinking Z31 but the same thing. On the 280zx it went down from the negative terminal to a bolt that went into frame about a foot below the battery tray. Sounds like you did it right but wanted to correct myself. Been working on a z31 turbo for last two months and sometimes my mind wanders to that. I ask again have you checked for loose hoses that create huge vacuum leaks. The rubber boot from the afm to the manifold is a problem. Examine that closely many folks found it to be cracked. Also there is hose coming off the bottom that needs to be connected (at least I think that is s130 and not z31 I'm picturing).

You can buy a fancy fuel pressure checker from auto parts stores. All you need is a cheap oil pressure gage that is at least 0-50 psi, a tee, some hose, and some hose clamps. Pull the fuel line off the top of the fuel filter. insert short hose there. insert Tee. hose clamps on the new hose. Now connect the pressure gage to the part of the tee that is open. You may have to look around for some adapters to do that. Depends on how good a hardware store you have in your area. I made the whole rig up for less than $20. The reason you had a short negative cable is that someone cut off the original body ground parts and went direct to battery because the original strap clamps were prone to breaking after some usage. Originally the ground wire had a copper piece coming off the cable after the terminal clamp about 6 to 8 inches. This was then bolted to the firewall in the immediate vicinity of the battery. It then ran down and was held by a rubber block and clamp then to the starter. If you can find an original at the junkyard worth the trouble to get it and replace what you have (my opinion). FPR could have failed conincidentally with the rebuild.

what does the positive cable look like? Is the negative cable grounded close to the battery and then to the starter as it was originally designed or did some genius just cut it all off and go direct to the starter. It will work but not the best way to do it. on my first z31 not knowing how it was supposed to be I ran two 10 gage wires from the negative terminal to either side of the engine compartment. Lots of M6 bolts around that go into the body for grounding. Insufficient earthings were what gave early Limey cars and Lucas electric a bad name. not saying that is the problem but every little bit helps. If your fpr is shot the spray fuel everywhere test doesn't tell you much. If you don't have a constant (around 30-35 psi) fuel pressure on the ring your injectors are not performing properly. Too much pressure they shoot in too much fuel. Too little pressure they don't shoot in enough to keep it running. You could try the starting fluid trick if it runs that way then you know (maybe) that timing and spark are right therefore a fuel or air issue. How could you check the spark and not see that the engine is turning over? A huge vacuum leak could also exhibit the same problem you are having. Recheck all the hoses and stuff that could cause that.

no no fuel left after running unless you got a leaking injector that pours what ever is under pressure in the fuel lines into the manifold. this one is kind of a stumper. Have someone watch the engine to be sure the starter is turning it over. you said you hear an odd whine now. Maybe the bendix went south and you hear the starter motor running but it isn't actually turning the engine. I'm out of ideas after that. Remember that zx don't like low voltage. A weak battery or corroded connections can turn over the starter but not provide enough voltage to run the electronics. just cause a timing light works doesn't mean you have spark. Try pulling the plugs and laying them on the block then crank her over and verify they are all sparking. You also said you had unburnt fuel when you blew it out. Things don't compute. what is your fuel pressure I don't see that in your post? TPS on a turbo just says go/no go. Really doesnt' affect starting. Might not like to rev up or might idle rich but should allow you to start it.

I did it by not thinking. Pulled the plugs figuring I'd crank the engine over and get oil started to all the galleries. That was fine but fuel was pouring into the manifold because the injectors were working fine. Had I just jumped the solenoid instead of using the key no problemo. perhaps when you had the timing off you tried starting it and got a lot of fuel then. Anyway try that if nothing happens one way or the other at least you have eliminated that as an issue. what finally kicked my old overworked brain into gear was asking myself why did I smell raw fuel at the exhaust. Had already checked spark, fuel pressure and air flow. Then came the dawn - too much fuel just as bad as no fuel.

that will make it much more useful

having wire gage size with the correct ampacity for the fuse installed will do more for getting the proper power out then a neat diagram.

You may have flooded the manifold with fuel. did that on an 83. Be sur you have a good (been load tested) battery and cables (no corrosion on the ends). Disconnect the fuel pump. With a fully charged battery hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and start cranking - KEEP THE PEDAL TO THE METAL. Give it a good long crank and see if you get a few pops and even might run a few seconds. Repeat a few times until no action. Reconnect fuel pump. Kill a goat in the name of the Z gods. It will probably start up assuming you have put the oil pump in correctly and the distributor is properly positioned to deliver spark to the number #1 cylinder at the correct time and the fuel injectors are doing the same.

Anybody down in Australia that has info about attending the race like best place to be etc. please let me know. We are going there to visit my daughter who is there with her honey for a few months. I was thinking of getting a general admission ticket for Sunday. Anyone have suggestions of a better way to do things. Thanks, Roger