hoov100

Best advice I have ever hear on hybridz is "don't remove the spindle pin unless you absolutely have to"

Alright, so this question has been burning in the back of my mind, since me and my brother built the car. The guy who put the cage in back in the 80's ran two tubes connecting the rocker bars together, for seat mounts. Now one seat mount is bent to go over the trans tunnel and the other is strait and goes through it. My question is, would the seat mounts survive any real crash? or would they just fold? as there is no lower chassis brace in that area minus the stock floors and firewall, but the frame is stitch welded to the floors and have some serious subframe connectors, if it makes any difference.

What is so difficult about comprehending this? the rule, is the rule. it lamens terms, it means you're cage cannot go farther then firewall or ANY panel that is between the down tubes and the wheel wells. Penetrate means. "cannot go farther"

Lol, I knew I should have checked this thread out, before updating the old one..

apparently, they are $7400 a piece.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240-Datsun-240z-FRP-Body-Shell-All-Panels-Brand-New-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2306f30b3aQQitemZ150440446778QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

Removing weight from a s30 is actually pretty easy. lets start with the dash, say you get vildini's fiberglass replica and use all autometers. Theres about 20 pounds right there. Say you strip all of the stock wiring out and re-wire it with the bare bones essentials, theres a good 5 or so pounds right there. using aftermarket one piece fiberglass seats and custom rails will save about 20 or so pounds, gutting all of the sound deadener, insulation, rear interior panels, carpet, HVAC system and controls will take off a good 40 pounds out. keeping the R180 and swaping in the subie R180 with CV axles will save about 10 pounds over the R200 swap with CV's. doing the wilwood rear disc brake setup will save a few pounds. using betamotorsports fiberglass hood and hatch with a lexan rear window and 1/4 windows will save about 60 pounds. fiberglass front fenders with molded in headlight buckets will save about 15 pounds a piece. going with an aftermarket aluminum pedal assembly with an aftermarket aluminum collapsible steering column will save about 15 pounds. replacing the control arms with aftermarket tubular ones will save about 5 pounds. installing a lightweight flywheel and clutch assembly will save anywhere from 10-20 pounds. total= 225 pounds and the car will still be completely street friendly. (these are conservative guesses at best, so don't quote me on it.)

You might as well just use an s13 dash. It will weigh about the same and will look better then a piece of folded sheet metal.

The cams spin slower then the crank by a considerable amount (obviously) which is what makes the marks irrelevant once the belt is on. if you turn it over enough times, they will line back up though.

Unique, but not really known by anyone other then z car groupies, thats why I said $15k.

Looks like one of those xenon air dams...

TBH I don't see it selling for more then $15k let alone $100k.

Little bit of an update, we havent fixed anything yet, but we are trying to decide where to go with this car. IE, finish the cage and put a new body on it, or just use a different chassis altogether.

You have to run a single carb though, SU's are dual single barrels. I remember 390cfm being the key number whenever someone did the 4 barrel swap, but you should confirm that.

a built L6 would be lucky if it ever needed a 500cfm 2bbl.

lol, the team I'm on, likes to drink, screw off and horse around after the last race. but we (the team) comes from street stocks, late models, dirt late models, modifieds, superlates and sprint cars. It's basically different owners, but the same crew.

portland.craigslist.org

Just because there isnt an HOA or some other controlling body, doesn't mean that every other property is a heap, I have lived in some nice neighbor hoods up north where people don't even know what a HOA is. The only good thing I can think of IMHO here about living in a nice well up kept neighbor hood, is to say you live in one. other then that, you're just spending more on property tax, spending money on HOA fee's and fines and are more likely to get robbed/vandalized or both. Lets say for example you pay $3500 a year for property tax, plus $500 a month in HOA fee's in a nice very well up kept neighborhood on the good side of town for 20 years. That totals to $190,000 over the course of 20 years. Now lets say you live in purgatory, between the nice side of town and the bad side. The side that is know to be nice, but has a few problems which keep it from being as nice as the good side of town. say you pay $2500 in property tax, but the insurance goes up an extra $150 a month for living in that part of town. The total comes out to $86000 over the course of 20 years assuming nothing changes (goes up). So out of all of that, how do you justify spending that much more, for the sake of a measly $100k difference in property value and the sake of saying you live in a good neighborhood? Maybe I'm simplifying things here and most likely you're situation is different, but the question still stands. I'm not trying to start an argument here, or say anyone is better then another, but the numbers are right in front of us and they only add up one way.

just about every RWD nissan from 89 and up, theres a very thorough page, listing all of the ratio's and what cars they come from. I'm guessing this is a 1/4 mile dirt track? I would think that a set of 4:50's would put you about redline with a 27" tall tire in the straits if thats the case.

Just look up the law, before you decide anything. I've seen instances where the HOA can legally tow a car, as they where only renting the house and the country club owned the land.

Whats going to happen if you stop paying the fee's and stop answering the phone calls? I used to live in a HOA, that wasn't in a country club, or gated community, just a small group of houses controlled by the HOA. after the first month and three complaints, I said f-u, stopped paying the fee's and had there number blocked from my phone and they couldn't do a damned thing about it. With 4 cars in the driveway and two on the street and the occasional parking on the lawn. that lasted until I moved out into a real neighborhood, where I can do what I want, when I want to. As for the cat litter, grinding it into the pavement should be enough to cover it up and if you keep grinding it in about once a week, the oil spot should disappear. Have you tried putting a piece of cardboard or wood panel under the car when you park?

Contrary to popular belief, circle track racing is not a redneck sport.

It would be interesting to build one, you're best bet for gear selection would be to swap to a short nose R200 and CV's. You most likely have a set of rules that say you have to run OEM suspension for the car though. If you're feeling like doing something different, you can get aluminum spindles and hubs from a z32 and ream them holes out to accept the large HOWE ball joints and run a crown victoria lower control arm and a tubular upper with an late model coilover setup.

damn double post....

Hook a 2-3 gauge wire from the battery to the strut tower bolt, then run one to the engine block, then run a ground to the firewall.