CamH

I LOVE the way your interior looks and I want to do something similar for mine. Have you considered making really simple panels to cover the inner parts of the doors?

I didn't use a relay board for my build but I did use a generic fuse block and fuse most of the wiring.

Thank you for your reply. Any switched source should do, right? Also, do you have any recommendations for replacing the white with black wire? Any way to run it to somewhere besides the factory set up?

Nobody?

Thanks for moving the thread for me.

I have been having some massive issues with the wiring (and charging systems) in my car. I am trying to bypass as much of the factory wiring as possible. Right now, I have the alternator wired up like this: and it works! (finally) My question is, can I have it wired like this (temporarily?) Also, what would be a good solution for getting rid of the white with black wire?

Hey guys, I am having numerous problems with the wiring on my Z. I just ordered an EZ2Wire kit to rewire the whole car, but in the meantime, to ensure that I don't lose charging if I blow a fuse or something, I would like to temporarily run a wire directly from the output of the ZX alternator that I am using to the positive side of my battery. Is this a "safe" way to ensure that I will maintain charging, or will it possibly ruin something? I would like to continue driving the car while waiting on my new wiring harness to get here. Thanks for your help.

I have begun blowing the fuse marked IGN which also happens to run some of the gauges and four way flashers, I believe. Anyways, I don't know where the wires coming off of the fuse block go exactly, and I need a hand figuring it out. I've already tried disconnecting my gauges (oil pressure, water temp, fuel) and emergency flashers. I think this fuse also runs the voltage regulator, but I have that jumpered off because I am using a ZX alternator (could this be causing the issue? tried with voltage regulator and that doesn't work either!) Anyways, the wires coming off of the fuse block are solid green and black with a white stripe. Here are some pictures of the black with white wire that I'm dealing with. I only took pictures of it because the green wire is nearly impossible to trace due to the amount of green wires in these cars and also because the black with white wire seems to be severely melted due to the fuse failing improperly and continuing to operate after it should not have: Large part of wiring harness underneath far passenger side of dash. Top of that part of the harness. Melted up fuse block. Wire coming directly from fuse block. It's hard to tell in the picture but it is badly melted, and there is slack all around the inner wire. Same melted wire coming out of the same connector set. Picture of underneath side of melted fuse block and both wires circled. I appreciate any help that you guys may offer. Thanks in advance!

For what it's worth, I am running an L28ET with the factory turbo, MSA 2.5" downpipe to a 3" exhaust which has a 3" straight through Magnaflow muffler in the center right behind the transmission and a 3" resonator at the very back of the exhaust. It is very very deep at idle and load, and is very quiet while cruising. If I get on the throttle really hard, it still doesn't make much noise - just a pleasant rumble. Most of the noise comes from the intake. You can definitely hear the turbo sucking air more than anything.

Okay, looks like I had a few things wired wrong. Headlights and running lights on the tails work now. Three out of four marker lights work, and one of the running lights for the front turn signals work. Turn signals still don't work at all - I think I still have some wires mixed up...

Well, it looks like all the grounds are good but I will double check them after work this evening. It seems like things would just not work if the grounds are bad - I don't think it would blow fuses, or would it? Also, if I posted this in the wrong section I apologize and would appreciate it if someone moved it.

Hey guys, I've got a 1973 240Z and I am having issues with numerous things: The fuse above the fuse for the headlights burn out immediately. Headlights don't work. The fuse for them burns out as soon as I turn them on. Turn signals don't work. Doesn't seem to burn out any fuses though. Could be one of the other two fuses, I guess. Four way flashers DO work. Brake lights DO work. Interior light in front of hatch DOES work. At one point, over a year ago, I had everything working but I have had the entire car torn apart since then. Dash pulled, engine replaced. From the looks of it, I have all of the connectors underneath the dash connected properly, but WOW, they are a mess. I hate how complex wiring systems are. Does anyone know off hand which connectors that these involve, and if so, do you have a picture of them? I'd like to get everything working properly so I can drive at night. Thanks guys!

I've been DDing my car for about two weeks now and every night I change a few settings and load the new tune in the morning and give it a shot for a day. Today we were messing with my car and I took my friend who owns a 240SX with a stock RB25DET in it and we agreed that my car was certainly faster, AND I'm still rich under boost.

All you posted was an email address.

I really like it so far. Thanks. The only problem is that I think I ruined the sensor for the LC1, because it can never give me a stable O2 reading, but I ordered a new one yesterday and it should be here by the end of the week.

Hey guys! I picked up from the exhaust shop today. Here are the results! It has a straight through Magnaflow muffler in the center of the exhaust, and a resonator on the back. It looks and sounds great!

Update on the car! The walbro fuel pump was completely dead. I replaced it with a 65GPH high pressure Bosch inline pump. With the current tune, the car starts up almost immediately and revs up fairly smoothly. I was very happy with it. I datalogged a run up and down the street, and then drove the car to have the exhaust put on it. The exhaust is going to be a 3 inch with a straight through magnaflow in the middle and a resonator on the back. It will be done tomorrow. I'm attaching the datalog to this post for everyone's review and suggestions. It is using the MSQ file from my last post. Also, the first thing I said when I stepped on the gas was, "Holy ♥♥♥♥!" datalog200905261429.msl.zip

I have a surge tank with a filter built in. No filter after the fuelpump which feeds into the fuel rail so I think we can rule that out because it had no problems drawing fuel from the surge tank.

Alright, guys, I just got back from messing around with the car. Someone on another forum pointed out that my MAP reading was way off and I had the vacuum line for the MAP sensor in the wrong location (bottom of the throttle body.) I relocated the MAP sensor and put the fuel pressure gauge on it. Nothing but trouble! According to my fuel pressure gauge, I've only got 1PSI of fuel pressure when the fuel pumps are running - even if I smash the return line. Could this be indicative of a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel pressure gauge? I'm not sure! I tried running the car like this and it would run for a few seconds and then die down and not start again for 20 or 30 minutes. Amazing! With the MAP sensor relocated, I've got like 80-90KPA during cranking. If the car starts, it goes down to 60KPA which is probably about right! Of course, the car won't run long... A side note: A few months back, I ran the fuel tank dry and the fuel pump was running for a few minutes dry. It got extremely hot and blew my fuse for the fuel pumps. Is there a chance that it would have been fine for a few months before blowing out all the way? Also, I don't think it has anything to do with getting a proper reading for the MAP because I disconnected the line for the MAP sensor so it would read about 100KPA the whole time and had the exact same symptoms. I'm not against buying a new fuel pump if it sounds correct that it is ruined but it seems odd that it would stop working the same day I fix the MAP. What do you guys think?

Here is a recent datalog and MSQ file. I am still having problems with the acceleration settings. I still haven't tested the fuel pressure, but I ordered a nice pressure gauge and will be installing it as soon as it arrives so I can verify that I am running the correct fuel pressure. heh.zip

Well I fixed a part of the hot start issue by switching the "Pulsewidth at 160" setting under the Warmup Wizard menu to 25. However, it still took it much longer to start up warm than it does when cold. Does it seem correct to have a higher number with that setting than the cold setting?

Ugh, so I am messing with the car right now. I came over, started the car up (and it started immediately.) I started playing with some of the settings in MegaSquirt (mostly VE and Accel settings) and after about 20 minutes, when the car was warm, I decided to shut it off to go grab something to drink. The car won't restart! I'm totally lost on why I can't get it to start. I've taken the spark plugs out and cleaned them, switched the pulsewidths for warm up wizard to the same as the cold one (where it easily starts!) and I am getting nowhere. If I am going to drive this thing, I need it to start up warm and cold, not just cold! Any ideas, guys? I should note that the fuel rail does not feel hot, and I have run the fuel pumps without anything else on, so it shouldnt be putting hot fuel into the engine.

Yep, the car definitely runs rich enough to make your eyes water when it is running. I know there is a harbor freight around here somewhere. I will make a trip there today and see about a fuel pressure gauge. One of the things I noticed about the really cheap ones online is that they only go up to 15PSI so they are likely for carbureted engines.

Alright, guys, just got back from messing with the car. I changed from using the old fuel return line from the small carb one to the breather one on the other side of the engine bay. This helped IMMENSELY. The car will now sit and run fine on its own for an extended period of time. I actually tried driving it today. I also turned off my barometric correction and that helped as well. Unfortunately, when I tried taking the car for a drive and datalogging, I ran out of gas. After putting another five gallons in the tank 15 minutes later, I could not get it to start properly. After waiting a good hour or so, I got the car to start and run again (roughly), so I took it back to my buddy's house where I keep the car and parked it, as it was not running well. So I didn't get any datalogs. As a side note, I am unsure if I may still have too much fuel pressure. The car is still running fairly rich. Nobody I know has a gauge for this. I am considering buying an inline fuel pressure regulator (with gauge) instead of running the factor L28ET one. Any thoughts or recommendations on this? I will probably not mess with the car tomorrow (go karting at Qualcomm woo hoo!). However, I would appreciate some more input as to what could be going wrong. I'd really like to start driving this car soon!

I am going to check the fuel pressure after work today. It is really starting to make sense to me that I am getting too much fuel pressure. I have a fuel pump feeding a surge tank in the front of the car and a 255LPH fuel pump feeding to my fuel rail. The fuel rail returns to the surge tank, and the surge tank returns to the gas tank through the regular return line. I think the regular return line may not be enough for the fuel setup that I have. This is going to be the first thing that I look into.