CamH

Here's a picture of the me about halfway through installing the fender flares on my car. The fenders are already cut. The circles are where everyone has a gap on their ZG flares. The gap is minimal on tightly mounted flares and nothing to be concerned about.

There is no way you can mount ZG's with no gap in the front! There's a crease in the body line on the fender, and there is definitely no crease on any ZG flare! There ends up being a tiny gap on either side of the crease. On my car, I bolted on a thing strip of rubber on underneath the flares and they seal fine with no gap. MSA ZG's and other knock offs have to be bent to properly follow the line of the fender, it's not that big of a deal and they hold up to it fine. Fiberglass can be bent pretty far without breaking. My flares have been on my car for about three years and I have no issues with them cracking or anything. You guys also may be right about some genuine Nissan ZG's from the early 70's fitting fine, but this is 2011, and I think you'll be hard-pressed to find some NOS flares. Anything at a reasonable price range is going to be a knock off, and they are fine to use!

Also, after looking at this again, the 20 minutes thing is pretty funny. I think I spent 3 or 4 hours measuring the flares on my car PRIOR to cutting.

Yeah, I think it's just a reflection of the building behind it

Here's a recent pic of my car from the top: Can you believe how good cell phone cameras are getting?

You should be able to bend them into the proper shape. This is required for MSA flares as well. ZG flares DO NOT follow the shape of the original fenders.

Wow, our cars look a lot alike when you put the Contours on yours! Mine's a luxury package as well, but not as modified as yours. Here's mine:

You're missing the M3 "twist" sideskirts. Was your car originally a luxury package? My DD is an arctic silver E36 M3 as well. Great car, lots of fun. Much harder to work on than an old Z.

No, but the stock setup heat soaks quickly. I upgraded two toyota 4x4 calipers up front with vented discs and it helped considerably

I have MSA ZG flares on my car, and, yes, the rears are only slightly wider than the fronts.

Stock turbo is the only thing that will bolt up to an MSA or factory downpipe. The flange is application-specific I believe. I have an extra stock T3 laying around as well, so if borini63 falls through, shoot me a PM

Good choice!

http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStudio/

The benefit of buying the full version of tunerstudio is: VE Analyze Live. This will allow you to make an AFR table, where you want your AFRs to be throughout your RPM/Manifold Pressure range, and then turn on VE Analyze Live and it will basically tune itself.

I run an Innovate LC1, as do many others here. I think AEM makes another popular one.

I wouldn't street tune without a wideband. Take it somewhere with a dyno and have it professionally tuned if you don't have a wideband

I love driving my 240Z. It's a real head turner! Any time I stop, I have people asking me questions and giving me compliments in the parking lot. The nice thing is, they can perform however you want them to! The Z is a great palate to build the car you want. Stock, they are loose and slow, but they can definitely be tuned up. My DD is an older BMW M3, and it doesn't hold a candle to my Datsun performance wise.

Do you have a wideband O2 sensor? If so, it's pretty easy to tune yourself using TunerStudio.

Keep in mind your old setup was hydraulic so it may not have been 'pumped up' completely when you were trying to spin it over by hand before. There wasn't any oil pressure. Also, it was my understanding that cam towers will wear to the cam a little, so a cam may not spin as freely as you'd want it to on a fresh install. Everything will wear in and it should be fine.

I had a similar issue on my setup. It turned out to be an "on the way out" coil. One day, I was out messing with the tune, and it failed entirely and left me stranded. After picking up an MSD Blaster SS coil and installing it, the car would rev to about 5500 (on hydro adjusters and stock hydro cam, but with a bigger turbo.) Might be worth your time to swap out coils if you have an extra sitting around. After that I converted to solid adjusters and MSA Stage II turbo cam and the car revs to just over 6500RPM and pulls hard all the way up!

I am now running the same cam. I heard about this issue, with the Schneider CWC cores, so I sent my cam off to be nitrided prior to installing it. I only have about an hour of usage on it so far, and have already inspected it once (it is fine), but I do plan on checking the cam for wear the next time I change the oil, in a few months (I do not drive the car often). I run Royal Purple 10-30w in my engine, which is a high ZDDP oil, to my understanding. I'll try to post back if I see anything unusual.

Just to confirm, Schneider DOES NOT make a hydraulic cam. The cam mentioned in this thread (and listed on the MSA website as a 1983 280ZX Turbo P90A only head) is for solid setups. If anyone has any info on actual aftermarket hydraulic cams, feel free to share (I am not sure that there are any.) So, I went ahead and put in the solids in with the nitrided Schneider turbo cam. I haven't started the car yet, but plan on buttoning up a few things and retuning tomorrow.

This thread ought to be really helpful! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Cam tower removal requires the removal of 5 out of 7 head bolts on the manifold side of the engine. I'm not sure that I would trust a factory-style head gasket after doing that. If I had an MLS head gasket I would probably try it. Thoughts? Thanks, I'll call them to verify in the morning. Like I said, I have a set of solid adjusters and timeserts so not a huge deal. I hope you're teasing me with that power band though, because it sounds FANTASTIC!

Yes, I believe I have the correct lash pads for this setup. I will be checking everything before starting the engine of course. Cam lift is 460/460 which, to my understanding, is fine on stock valve springs. I believe these are meant to be mostly a drop in affair. The engine has ~5000 miles since rebuild and the valve springs were replaced with new ones during rebuild. I was hoping to have things done today, but didn't quite have time to get it buttoned up. Will hopefully be posting back with good results tomorrow!