CamH

Well, I believe cam tower removal requires the removal of the nuts off of 5 of 7 head studs so I'm not sure that the head gasket would keep a seal. It's a felpro, not metal. I wanted to kind of keep the head gasket as a "fuse" in this setup. I think I am going to put the Schneider cam in today, and see what happens. If I can widen out my power band a little, I'll be happy for now, and can build a new head later. edit: Will post back later with butt dyno results, and VE change under boost.

I'm posting to see if any of you fellow L-series guys have bothered putting aftermarket cams in your hydraulic lifter P90A engines. I currently have a P90A head with factory turbo cam, and it will not pull past 5500RPM without taking a serious dive in power. I want to correct this. In my parts supply, I have a nitrided MSA (Schneider) Stage II Turbo cam made for the hydraulic head. I also have an extra head with good factory A grind camshaft, lifters, and a set of timeserts for the conversion to solid lifter, kind of avoiding this because I would need to swap cam towers (which requires head gasket swap) as my A grind cam is externally oiled. I'm just trying to figure out what my best option would be. Also, I am running a larger T3/TO4E 60 trim turbocharger with stage III exhaust, and about 18PSI, and I have an aftermarket intake manifold (lonewolf) and full 3" exhaust..

Mine is 2,300 without me in it. It's an inter cooled L28ET swap in a stripped interior (with sheet metal dash instead of factory one) 1973 Z.

L28ET is the most powerful direct bolt in that isn't a built engine.

Okay, so I watched a part of your log. One thing that I immediately notice is that your fuel map is very blocky- no smooth transitions between cells or anything. You might try switching to tunerstudio and let it auto tune a little bit, or have megalogviewer do the VE Analyzer. I think your sensors are fine, mine are probably worse than that and my car runs very well. These systems can be frustrating to get running right (took me six months) but they are very rewarding once they are set up properly.

How do you have everything set up? Your engine configuration, etc? That might give people a better idea of how they could help you.

Next week, I can give you the tune for my car. Very similar setup. T3/TO4E turbocharger and RC Engineering 550CC injectors. PM me to remind me

Ugh, I came here to post a picture of that car. Such a beautiful machine, and yes, they do look amazing with ZG flares. I'd love to have one of these cars to mess with.

I think you should probably go ahead and do the eyebrows. I think Nigel just kind of got lucky with the valves not getting messed up. It's cheap insurance to just go and cut in the eyebrows and not worry about your valvetrain.

I guess that probably won't perform any better than a normal internally gated turbo, but it looks pretty cool.

How's the paint on the outside of the car? Did it all make it through?

Hey Noddle, by "self cleared" I assume you mean that the valve hit the block and notched it for you. How'd the valve look after that?

Why would you need to do that?

Yeah, the red car looks okay. I don't agree with everything on it, but it isn't ruined. The white one, on the other hand, should go to the crusher. That thing is ruined.

Yes, pictures, please. I don't watch TV.

Have you considered the 240SX transmission?

My understanding was that it had a lot to do with how you drive it. I'm running a ZX 5 speed in my car, and I shift it smoothly and slowly, with no launching, and it still feels perfectly healthy. I believe I am somewhere in the high 200whp zone based on what others have gotten with the same setup and how it fares against other cars. I can show actual results in a month or two

Since Noddle brought it up, I'd have to agree with him. I'm able to get high 20's out of my car, with a nice lean cruise on the freeway.

I will post some more after I take it out of storage at the end of this month. I'm currently away from the car for military commitments

Just found a nice picture of my car by someone with a nicer camera.

I think you'll be good either way. The valves probably leak on the E88 as well if I had to guess.

What are you running? Carbs or EFI? If EFI, you'll need to drill the top of the intake ports for the fuel injectors on the older head. If you're running carbs the older head will work with no modification. Keep in mind that most of these older heads will probably have leaky valves. It's all old stuff and these things wear with age. Use this tool to see if compression with the different head will be acceptable: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

You should figure out what you have wrong first. Throwing bigger injectors on it right now aren't going to help you.

Turbochargers and superchargers were originally used to help engines cope with higher altitudes. In that regard it will be fine. However, driving an old car like that on salted roads is no good. After saltings, leave the car parked in a garage. Drive a beater

Sexiest shooting brake ever.