Supra510

I think the key to this is that your catch can actually needs to "catch" something. A lot of can's don't have baffles or anything else in them to assist with removing the oil vapor and then it ends up in the intake. If you have a properly baffled can it minimizes any oil vapors.

Looks good in there, you've made some good progress.

Sweet bike. 14.7 lbs is amazing. Had a Trek way back that was around 21. Thought that was light!

I would reconsider having the shop machine the entire wheel if you can avoid it due to machining costs. Might try buying something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EDIS-36-1-trigger-wheel-megasquirt-2-3-ford-dis-turbo_W0QQitemZ160171012126QQcmdZViewItem and having it modified to mount to your pulley. I had to have one for my Electormotive set up machined in an emergency, story here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663/5 and at 60 per hour, which is pretty dirt cheap it was over 260.00. You can buy the same wheel for like, 35.00. Granted he did mount it as well but the machining of the wheel was the time consuming part. 6 hours for everything and I was there every minute, not much wasted time. Anyway, I'd google "edis trigger wheel" before I paid to have one machined.

Awesome

Nice job. For anyone contemplating this you can also use schedule 40 PVC pipe of the size to mock things up for the straight sections. Makes getting your lengths perfect pretty easy.

Ruby

You'd need at least an inch spacer to fill out ZG's. I have them in my garage and test fit them on my wagon which has ZG's and they are sunk in quite a bit. These are 18x9.5's with 275-35-18's. Offsets from a 510 are pretty similar to a 240z so this gives you a idea at least. Compare to the last pic with my regular 18x10 Racing Hart C2's. Not the lightest, but for the price they are hard to beat for a good looking wheel.

My SDS for a turbo has the RPM map set a 63 for basically every RPM from idle to redline. The MAP sensor map on my motor is set at around 30 for the vacuum around idle (20, 19,18) the goes up about 4 per vacuum point until I get into boost then I go up 7 per lb of boost. Should be enough to get you going. I have 550cc injectors on a 3.0 motor so you'll likely need to lean it out.

No check valve needed. You route the pressure back to the compressor inlet which is always under a vacuum condition whether under boost or not. I've attached a pic

The catch can is routed back to the turbo intake. The catch can traps the oil vapor that comes in through the 2 smaller tubes from the cam covers. The the pressure then goes out the large tube to the intake that enters the compressor housing. A lot of Supra's run this set up.

I had had a problem very similar to yours with my old turbo. I couldn't get it to smoke on deceleration, mostly it would occur once I was on boost, then decelerated. No smoke on deceleration (or on boost), but once on the gas again I would get a big puff of blue smoke. I made sure the oil drain was big enough, valve stem seals, breather tank. Nothing cured it. I had a little oil residue in the compressor inlet, but minimal shaft play. Nothing worked. Rebuilt the turbo which turned out to have quite a bit of shaft damage and all smoking issues went away. The only other smoking I ran into was at track days at the end of a long straight. Turns out my breather tank fittings were too small. I've since gone to a closed system with a catch tank that runs back to the intake. See write up here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663/6

Sick.

Nice job so far. The key now is to keep at it without getting tired of all the cutting, grinding, welding, and bodywork. I thought my bumper project was bad.

Looks great, cool project.

Datsunlover--Thanks, it was a lowered, dark green 240 wagon with BBS wheels that got me interested in wagons in the first place. Veritech-z- I've attached a couple of shots from the front. You can see how the bumper follows the lines of the car a bit better. Pretty much impossible to cover the tire with the bumper on a 510, at least these tires Savage42--Thanks a lot Gary. You're getting closer with your Z. Looks like the paint came out really well. I'm guessing you'll have it together for the summer? Someday I'll have to have you guest drive my car a one of these "time attack" time trials to see what it can really do. Lum's got his new project in the works, 3.5L with twin turbos I think. I'm just trying to keep up

Great story.

Pretty much finished with it. Need to fix a few things you can't see in the pix. At some point I will add a splitter to the bottom (a lot of my reason for doing this in the beginning). Tired of metal fab for now. I had to redo the mounts for all the coolers as the bumper slants back so much more, almost finished with those, then on to something else.

All those 510 guys are nuts.

Looking good. I'm no expert on the SR engines, but everyone I've seen swapped to a 510 or a roadster (which is quite a few) the engine looks to be tilted a little to the right (when facing the engine bay), but not very much. Here are some links to some really nice set ups http://www.cardomain.com/ride/755713 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/736863 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/678774/2

Did it 3 times with one HKS gasket. Just cleaned with acetone and used copper spray.

Pic from the side and another angle with a little flare on the backside by the tire. Still refining this area, it will follow the arch of the wheel a little better in the end. Used this E30 M3 Evo lip for a little inspiration. http://www.bmwinfo.com/pictures/00152.jpg

Well, decided I'd had enough so under the knife. 1st what's hiding under there. Coolers, lots of coolers. 2nd, reused the center section, tilted back. 3rd, added sides, more curved and slanted in than before. 4th, added a lip 5th, added sides to the lip.

Sick. Enough said.

I couldn't agree more. Here's what my big brakes gave me. Braking force--Yes, plenty Controllability--Yes, I can actually modulate the brakes on the edge of lockup from 130+, not so with my previous 280zx set up. The window of controllability is much better. It doesn't go from braking hard to blam! lockup. You can tell when it's about to happen. Repeatability--Yes, less fade=repeatable results Balance--Yes, now. With my first rear brake set up the caliper pistons were too small, so even with the bias all the way to the rear I couldn't lock them. Now with bigger pistons I have all the adjustability I want and good balance as well. Feedback--Yes, hand in hand with controllability. I can feel when they are on the verge of lockup, not so with the previous setup. You won't get any argument here that handling/weight wise you should go with a system as small as you can that meets the above criteria. That being said when I'm stopping from 130+ at the end of PIR's front straight I'd rather have brakes a little too big than a little too small.