EMWHYR0HEN

Make sure the reaction disc stays in place and don't forget to adjust rod length and pedal play.

WoW. Pictures?

I would make sure your rear suspension bushings are in good shape, along with your struts. lowering your tire pressure might also help.

I know you've been successful with this. I'll take your word for it and put down the welder now. Thanks John.

I welded my R200 diff solid for my track car in hopes of correcting the car's fast turn in and lack of traction. First I removed the carrier and cleaned the spiders then preheated the welding area of the spiders with a butane torch. I used a 220V mig and made 4 welds on each side of the carrier with 2 overlaps on each weld. I've welded thick metal before in welding classes, and I feel good about the penetration and quality of the welds. I'm still new at this though and I was wondering If I should also weld the spiders to the carrier. The carrier is cast iron and after reading these, I feel kinda iffy about doing it. http://www.locknstitch.com/CastIronWelding.htm http://http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/cast-iron.htm http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/castironpreheat.asp Basically, if your not careful with the temperature it can become brittle. For those of you that have welded diffs before, Is what I have now strong enough?

ATE super Blue works good for your intentions. Plus, you can usually get them at your local BMW dealerships.

I know. It was my steet car then. Pm sent about welded diffs.

The car was manageable to drive, I just want to get out of turns faster. Also, Recently Iv'e done a bit of chassis reinforcing overall improving the front.

Iv'e been running my 240Z on 300lb fronts and 350lb rears with Koni adj. for quite a while now. Half the time I ran with the stock sway bar up front and no rear. No LSD, 195/14's. Some of my observations: My turn in and corner entry speed was fast, almost too fast. Sometimes I had trouble with clipping the apex early. Corner exit speeds were slow. I wasn't able to get on the gas early without some oversteer. Putting power down (even though I didnt have much of it) was tricky. Adding 1'' sway up front and 3/4 in the rear made the car turn in even quicker and exit even slower.

I'm been running 300 front and 350 rear and Koniis. Just wondering if it would be worth me time to switch them around...

I don't know how you get the to clear everything, but that setup looks awsome!

It's mentioned alot here that stiffer rear spring rates than fronts is the way to go. I'm curious to know, WHY? In gerenral, What are the basic handling chararteristics of an S30 with a stiffer rear spring setup? What about a stiffer front spring setup?

Pete, the car looks great. One question for you, Have you tried running your 350lb springs up front and 375lb on the rear? I just wanted to get some feed back on the comparison between that and your current setup (F:375, R: 350) My current setup is stiffer rear and after extensive front end stiffening im considering making the front stiffer.

I hope I don't run into anything worse than what have encountered when I finish... Like Jon mentioned, you can't just expect your car to handle well after extensive changes like you have done. It's ALL about the fine tuning and experimenting. Keep at it Cameron, you'l figure it out.

That was lame. Probably could have sold it to a J-yard for some cash.

You dont need to flare the ends of the tube with a compression fitting. 37 degree flaring tools are expensive for decent - good ones and cheap ones might make crappy flares ending up with leaks. Jon, post pics of your process as I know of a few people here that are also on the same subject, including myself!

Thanks for the info Preith. Braided line isn't cheap and for over a 25' length ouch. You mentioned running braided line inside your cabin. Do the fuel fumes seep through the lines and stink up the cabin? What brand of hose are you using?

I'm not making any changes just yet, I still have more research to do. Nevertheless, Thanks for all your concerns.

I think i'm going to have to make some changes. I didn't realize how dangerous it could be to have the fuell ines through the firewall which could litterally cut the lines if the hole on the fire wall changed it's shape in a collision. I think i'm just going to run it how it was stock..

Is there a reason why I should run the pump lower? Should I be concerened about the lines and pump being that low? Thanks

I have my fuel filter before the engine, after the pump which is how most factory Nissans run them. For the added protection it would be best to run 2 filters before and after the pump.