Dave

Actually its the alternator that needs the work. I have a CS series alternator that I need to break the field circuit in when I hit WOT. I have electric fans, water pump, fuel pump and ignition that are drawing close to 40 amp. By breaking the field circuit from the regulator in the alternator at wide open throttle there is nothing belt driven that eats up horse power. It looks like from this site http://www.transpo.de/cgi-win/product.exe?D7050 the one wire conversion has had the regulator moved to the outside of the alternator. Has anyone done the one wire conversion on a CS series alternator? The cs series is the alt that has the serpentine belt.

1967 GTO

The ring gear carrier is different than the one I have that is also out of a 88 ZXT. Look through the axle holes and see if you can see straight through and out the other side. I can put a broom handle clear through mine. My best guess is that it is a LSD and Nissan had more than one supplier for the carriers. Does the finned cover have a tag that says viscous on it?

Here are some pictures of what others have done. Click Here!

If you look at the side of the differential the R180 has a plate with 5 bolts that the side axles plug in to. Click Here!

If you don't find a steering wheel nut by friday let me know and I will send ya one.

I was looking at Bryan Little's web page and found his about using the 77-78 vented hood for Passive Ram Air on a carbureted Z. Looks interesting. Passive Ram Air

A long extension cord will also lower the amperage with out causing damage.

Here are some text files and pictures of early Z's that have had power steering installed http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/Power-Steering/

Just head here http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm There is probably almost anything you ever wanted to know about the Z.

Looking at the pictures I see that the car is a 71Z. The fact that it is a 71 is not so important. What interest me is the front bar that goes down to the sub frame. Its anchor point looks to be on top of where the sway bar goes. However there is no sway bar on this Z. I have had the 1" bar that I use rip the subframe to pieces at this point. On the 71 I now have I put a plate on top of the frame and used long threaded bolts for the sway bar with nuts on top. I would think that this front bar if welded on the top end would stiffen this up. It looks like this setup has a slip fit on top and if there was any movement there would be another squeek or rattle from this area.

http://www.405themovie.com/Home.asp

Hi Miles, A couple months ago I upgraded to the 15/16" master Cylinder in my 71Z. and could not get the pedal feel where I felt safe with it. I went back and bleed the brakes again except this time I did it this way. I used the master cylinder bleeder kit but fit the tubing over the bleeder screws. Then I looped each short hose back into it’s own reserve bottle with the end below the fluid level. I opened both front and rear bleeder screws and slowly pumped the pedal to bleed the master and fill these loops with fluid. I did this slowly so the fluid would not aerate. I let it sit for a few minutes then did this again, this allows any bubbles to gather together so they come out easier. After this was done I started to bleed out the system. I closed the rear bleed screw on the master, but left the front one open. This will allow pressure to bleed the rear circuit, but leaving the front open will prevent the pressure differential switch and proportioning valve from messing with you. Normally when you are bleeding the rear circuit the front circuit will be fighting you and you will not get a full pedal travel while bleeding. I bleed the both rears and then swapped the master bleeders. This time I closed the front bleeder and opened the rear bleeder. This will prevent the rear circuit from building pressure while you bleed the front cylinders. Now I bleed both front cylinders. After all this I had the pedal back where it felt safe.

COOL!!! what the heck is it. I think I want one.

The Z car Cheat Sheet now has a new permanent home in Cyber Space. http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm The old URL I posted a couple days ago will no longer work

I had the Handy Dandy Dennis (AKA Rough Idle) Cheat Sheet HTML file cleaned up. The name has been changed. If you downloaded it earlier delete the first one and grab the new file. To download this in HTML format click on "file" then "save as" and save it as a Web Page. You then will have the Cheat Sheet complete with the pictures. http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm

Actually 63-67 Corvette tail light bulbs are changed by removing the lens.

Here are a couple pictures that might be what your talking about. http://12.224.138.56:8880/Files/Datsun%20Files/Subframe/PassMountPlate.jpeg http://12.224.138.56:8880/Files/Datsun%20Files/Subframe/NewCrossmemberOver1.jpeg

I was cleaning up a old hard drive and I found a copy of Handy Dandy Dennis (AKA Rough Idle) Cheat sheet. There is a wealth of info on the file so I put it up at the following link. http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm I just changed the address to this site where the Cheat sheet will live a long and permanent life.

Here is a link to a online site that does Auto Math Calculations. http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/index.php Dave....

This proves beyond and reasonable doubt that "the difference between men and boys is the cost of their toys" Dave...

I have drilled the mustache bars before and they are hardened steel. I do use a drill press set at the slowest speed.The drill bits I use are Cobalt not Carbide. One will cost about $20. Dave... http://www.linfoot.net

I downloaded the video of Saturdays F4 crash from http://home.socal.rr.com/picsgifs/images/_dvcr001.mpg and it looks like there was a massive fuel dump from the F4 just before it went in. It is sad that we lost two people but it does show that spectator safety is #1 at these shows. Dave...

As I recall the JTR conversion manual says that there is a adjustment screw in the back of the tac that you adjust it with. Dave...