Dave

Hey did anyone notice that if you right click on the bogus page and Select All his E-mail address comes up as. primal_rage_69@hotmail.com Better yet just go to google.com and search using his E-mail address. This boy has been busy with Petes car.

We aull lernt to wurk on r cars b4 we figured out how too spell. But we do a better job on our cars.

I have a 71 and a 75 coupe and I used a hatch gasket from a 300ZX. The 300ZX gasket is not glued to the pinch weld so it just pulls off. The gasket is a perfect fit on the early Z.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/

I have 4 of the 2X2 1/4" angle front diff mount brackets left from when I did mine. It seems that for some reason when I make a part I do a couple extra in case I mess one up. $5.00 each to cover shipping. These are easy to install without tearing the car apart. See the pictures 2 posts back. V8-240Z@juno.com

I also need to sign in on this thread, 3 years ago when the R180 grenaded I did the R200 LSD swap and soon after I experienced the broken mount syndrome. I also did the snubber with the 2X2 1/4" angle and have had no trouble since.

Here are some cable specifications and and tips for trunk mounting the battery in a Z. Click Here There is more info here than what you need but it gives you a idea how how much power is lost through the cable. MAD enterprises sell a remote solenoid kit for a trunk mounted battery. Click Here I bought this kit and used it in my Z. I have my remote solenoid back by the battery in the back of the car. I used a 8Ga wire to power the rest of the accessories. Here is a scan of the directions that came with the MAD kit. Click Here

All kinds of pictures at http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/Rollbar/

According to a news report, a certain private school in Victoria recently was faced with a unique problem. A number of 12 year old girls were beginning to use lipstick and would put it on in the restroom. That was fine, but after they put on their lipstick they would press their lips to the mirror leaving dozens of little lip prints. Every night the maintenance man would remove them and the next day the girls would put them back. Finally the principal decided that something had to be done. She called all the girls into the restroom and met them there with the maintenance man. She explained that all these lip prints were causing a major problem for the custodian who had to clean the mirrors every night. To demonstrate how difficult it has been to clean the mirrors, she asked the maintenance man to show the girls just how much effort was required. He took out a long-handled squeegee, dipped it in the toilet and cleaned the mirror with it. Since then there hasn't been any lip prints on the mirror.

Here is a link to a slick 1/8 to 1/4 mile ET calculator. http://12.224.138.56:8884/Files/Datsun/Software/Et-Calc/ Click on the html file or just grab all 3 files and use it from your computer. Feel free to use this any way you want.

He's got a web page listed in a description of another item he has for sale but don't go there. It has the most aggressive Pop Up ads I have ever seen. I think he needs to be as Jim said.

Wur in trauble if he taukes a intierest in Datsons. Damn that was hard to do!!!

I think that most important would be a exaust driven vaccum pump to run the brake booster when that electric turbo charger has developed full boost.

We are in the wrong business!!!! once you get to his web page click on view seller's other items. I have a 21 foot Bayliner out back I am parting it out!!!! How much is a bilge pump worth to keep our floors from getting wet.

I would bet money that at full throttle that thing would turn into a turbine and charge a battery. Better yet hook it to the tail pipe to keep the battery charged.

DAW do you happen to have the NISMO part number for the sway bar mounting kit? or pictures of what you get with the kit and how its installed?

For some reason solar clothes dryer comes to mind when I see stuff like that.

BLKMGK had a problem with his GM mini starter doing I think the same thing. I wonder if a large diode in the jumper to the GM S connection would also solve this? Looking at the wiring diagram it should do the same at the ford solenoid that it does at the stock one. But then again maybe not because its not connected to the battery lead.

The SE three wire only needs the S and the F terminals for our cars. The S is the sensing that is connected directly to the output from the alternator. The F is the Field that excites the Rotor (field) through the charge indicator light. I see from Powermasters web page that their alternator will drop a couple volts when the field is taken to ground but this recovers only a couple HP. Call it greed on my part but I want all of it at WOT. I found the wiring schematics for the charging circuit on the SI http://12.224.138.56:8884/delcosi.jpg and it looks like I have to break both the Sensing and Field circuits but the Diode Trio is still feeding the internal regulator. If this works the alternator will stop charging at a low RPM but it will come back to life just off of full throttle. The External regulated Ford and Chevs I have done this on in the past had point type regulators. The CI and SE with their electronic regulators may not be able to handle this. I may have to try a Ben Franklin and fly the kite in a thunder storm to get a answer if this will work. I haven't done anything quite yet, but its getting close.

My ignition (Mallory stuff) is running at 9V all the time set with a electronic regulator. I have a Meziere electric water pump. I can take the fan belt off the car and it runs just fine off the battery. Fuel pressure is fine at full throttle. I am after the 7-10 HP the alternator is using. I did this years ago with a 66 Vett using a relay and a TH400 kickdown switch to break the field from the external regulator. The SI and CS series internal regulator alternators are not making this easy.

Seams to me that it will work. Seams that this is not going the way it seams it should.

Pete I was having a similar problem with a Mallory Unilite a couple years ago. It turned out to be a noisy voltage supply to the ignition. The cure was a 20 amp stereo filter (a rather large capacitor) from Radio Shack. On your car it needs to be installed before the ignition relay because the filter holds enough power that the car will run on for a moment after it is shut off. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F002%5F001%5F019%5F008&product%5Fid=27%2D055

Thats so well done it deserves a thread of its own.