JustinOlson

This is at a current rocker height of 5.75" front and 6.5" rear. I think I'm going to ZY fenders front and rear to help get the car lower. Once I get the car down to the height I want it at, I will redesign the suspension pickup points to make it work. Overall I'm really happy with these Rota's. They look great on these Z cars!

Here are my 17X9.5 with 245/40 Bridgestone RE-01R's. I will get them mounted today and hopefully take some pictures. I wanted to go wider, but I could not pass up these tires at half off from Tire Rack. I think if I ever make an upgrade from these it will be to 285/30-18's all around on some 18X10's. Justin

Here you go. I found it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=745009&postcount=12

It really depends upon which 275 tire you are looking to run. Clifton was running a 275/40-17 Mickey Thompson ET Street. He wasn't rubbing the strut tube, but the inner fender wall. There is a picture of it floating around somewhere.

Or you could move the whole strut assembly inboard. You'd need to redo the wheel well, shorten the halfshafts, and control arms.

Here's a good view comparing most of the different RB profiles:

I was just browsing through Rota's latest inventory and found that they are making the P45-R in a 17X9 & 17X9.5 both +12 offset. These should fit a coilovered car with a 7mm spacer. Found these pictures: http://zilvia.net/f/wheels-tires/244205-rota-p45-r-time-attacks-17x9-17x9-5-12-4x114-3-wrapped-w-bfgoodrich-kdw-2s.html Justin

Heres the Xenon catalog page: http://www.teamxenon.com/mm5/pdf/2009_Xenon_CatalogPage45.pdf And here is the cheapest places to buy them: http://www.google.com/products?q=Xenon+Polyurethane+240z+air&hl=en&scoring=p

I picked up a Bosch 044 fuel pump off of Ebay for ~$175 shipped. I figure if the 910 will support your needs, theres no need to run the more expensive, higher current draw pump. Justin

A little update. I'm about to order a set of YZ fenders front and rear. I'm going to retain the MSA type 3 air dam, and modify it to work with the YZ front fenders. I will be running the MSA type 3 in the location pictured below. I'm also working on figuring out my Bilstein R36-5022 inserts. I'm currently struggling like many have to make the techno toy tuning front camber plates to work on these bilsteins. There just isn't much room for the thrust bearing. The upper ball joint can't articulate with my current clearances. I have some ideas, and will be discussing with my machinist friend ways to retain the thrust bearing. In other news I have purchased a 99 honda civic to get around in. This is helping a lot as I'm not attending school 5 days a week, working 5 days a week, and caring for my grandparents in my spare time. Life is definitely busy right now, but I'm making the best of it. Hopefully things will get sorted out so I can make time for the Z on the weekends. I will be getting my welder back from my cousin at the end of this month hopefully. He's been using it for the past 3 months to build up is Land Rover project. You can see that here: http://seriesiiirover.blogspot.com/ Also, I nearly forgot that I ordered JSK front rotor hats and mounting brakets. I still trying to decide on a set of calipers to use, but that should be soon. I want to do the brakes at the same time I section the struts. I have to figure out what I'm doing for my rear brake setup. I'm torn between doing a solid axle now, and retaining the IRS. There just aren't many reasonable options for a strong 4 lug stub axle. I think its pretty crazy to spend the money on the Modern Motorsport R230 axle conversion, and billett stub axles. I may sell my R230 diff and axles, and go to a ford 9". Decisions, Decisions, Decisions. Justin

Terry did this mod. It increases steering effort from what I've read. It also moves the leading edge of the tires closer to the air dam. See this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=294221&postcount=4

Looks Great!

I ride daily. I generally do a multimodal commute where I ride 7 miles to the electric commuter trains. So I get about 14miles a day during the work week. This winter I haven't ridden very often on the weekends. Now that the weather is getting better I'm getting about 40-60 miles on the weekends. Current collection: 08 Cannondale Capo Fixed (17lbs) 07 Trek T1 Fixed (16lbs) 06 Lemond Filmore Fixed (19lbs) 02 Giant TCR geared bike mid 70's Invicta converted to Single Speed for Girlfriend (mocked up in pic, finished now): http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/208/dsc01046vf2.jpg I really love the fixed gear bikes. They are so simple and fun to ride. A really great workout too. I use my TCR for long rides as the gears really make a difference when climbing. I have only done one century ride so far, but plan on doing quite a few this summer. I really want to by a nice mountbike next. Hopefully a nice hardtail 29er. I really like the trek 69ers SS, but likely won't buy one as I only want one mountain bike. Justin

Moving the cross memeber forward 1.25" will improve the caster getting it to ~7 degrees. I'm doing this on my swap soon..

Yeah, you are looking at about 50lb/corner with the Rota RB-R 17X9.5 with 275 tires.

What about making a bolt in mount kinda like Arizona Z's, but connected to keep them from moving around, and raising the inner pivot mounts. I haven't looked under the car, but you'd likely have to do some sheet metal mods to make this fit. Seems pretty easy really. You could even integrate the diff mounts into this cradle. Justin

Myron, Do you have your crossmember moved forward for increased caster? Just curious, as that seems like it would make the rack/crossmember interference issues less of a problem.

You should be able to bore them to 2.17" just like these other sleeves they sell. I have these, and they are thin wall thickness. They are strong enough tho, so I don't see why you'd have any issue boring out the longer units to 2.17" They use the same nut, so they'd be the same resulting wall thickness. http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12452-h.aspx

What is the total height of the VQ35 from oil pan to intake manifold?

I was dorking around with the MSA type 3 this weekend. Heres a side shot without the bumper cover. Looks like I'll need to lower the car several inches more to get the front to look right. I'll see what I can do on that front next week

Just an FYI, I got an email back from Kim and all of the colors are in stock on those Rota RB-R's 17X9.5.

I went through this last summer, and will be hitting it up for a clean up in the next few weeks. Check out this thread for what I did: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137262

You could do the Rota 17X9.5" RB-R's for 725 shipped from Kim at Rota (kimcosmic@juno.com). You could put the Bridgestone RE-O1R on this wheel in a 245/45-17 at $78/tire: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Potenza+RE-01R Justin

So bringing this back as I'm finally getting moving on my project again. I'm in the process of completely redoing the stock floor pan, and frame rails. My floor pan is flush with the rocker panels now. The frame rails are gone, and the load will be transmitted through the cage and rocker tubes going in. I'm trying to evaluate what else will give me trouble for scraping, as I'm shooting for 4" ground clearance at the rockers. The exhaust is going to be side exit, never going under the car, so that won't be an issue.I'm worried about the MSA type 3 air dam rubbing on everything at this ride height. Also, I'm worried about the oil pan and front subframe. BTW, before I get jumped all over regarding this, I'm raising the rear diff, and LCA mounting points front and rear.

Which Outlaw calipers did you go with? Bummer about the street wheels