Kennysgreen280zt

Jersey, how'd you get the IC piping to clear the fan, and go under the radiator hose like that? are you running an aftermarket electric fan? I am getting ready to make a similar setup for my Z and am curious! later ~Kenny

Doug, I have *just* installed a fuel pressure gauge and havent even had a chance to fire the car up yet. Just out of curiousity, how quick of a bleed down are we talking here? like just a few seconds after shut off, or like 5 min after? I wont be able to get around to fooling with the car untill sunday so I will repost my findings then. Drax, I found 2 plugs at the local pick n pull that look like they will work. If you want them, let me know via email Fiestaboy80@hotmail.com They came off of a trecel I think, and they werent the main fuel injector plugs, but for something else under the hood. There was no motor in the car so I really cant say what they even went to. The injectors do lock into them nicely though. Thanks for all the sugestions so far! ~Kenny

Hey all, I am in the process of tuning my SDS all up and I have run into a problem. When I have been hot starting it the last two days, it has let out a huge, shotgun sounding, backfire out the exhaust. no error codes, and non of the programming seems to be out of whack (ie everything is still pretty close to what SDS gave me). the START function is set at 0 for the temp range it is usually in when its hot. I have double checked the intial timing to make sure the hall sensor hadnt moved any, no difference. The car runs great otherwise and I am really happy with the SDS. If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do to make it stop back firing on hot start it would be great. My car is running 440cc supra injectors, stock turbo, 3" DP, and 3" exhaust. Just to share

http://www.burnsstainless.com is where I have found some stuff. they are rather pricey. If you can live with normal steel, JCWhitney has some great prices on mandrel bends Edit!!! I guess Jegs sells them too.... twards the bottom of the page. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1327&prmenbr=361

Hey all, I got my supra injectors all installed, a new fuel rail hooked up, the only thing I havent been able to find is the plugs that actually plug them in. I havent been to the local junkyard yet, so I havent seen if there is anything there that will work (no supra turbo's for sure ) I also tryed the dealer "you would have to buy the whole harness to get those" so that was a dead end. If anyone has info on what would work, or has a set laying around I would be greatful for the info/parts. I also hosted this picture to show what they look like. thanks all!!! ~Kenny

Any way to stop the metal HG from leaking? My car is in need of a headgasket right now and I was considering going to the metal one. thanks! ~Kenny

The little race diamond looked like it was in the laguna seca area.... or maybe fontana?

I think I payed $60 or so when I bought them about a year ago. Should have just gone with the ARP's.... Summit has them for like $125.... Thanks for all the replies, I think I will actually try to get a little extra cash together and get the ARP's before the car goes back together. later! ~Kenny

Hey all, quick question about the turbo head bolts. Are they re-usable once they have been torqued and then taken off? I am looking at changing the headgasket in my car and wanted to know if I had to buy new ones. thanks!! ~Kenny

I am running the supra injectors on my Z right now. they fit in the manifold just fine, use the OE Oring's on the manifold side. I can send you some pics of the fuel rail, its a little wierd but gets the job done well. I couldnt locate the stock supra plugs, so my injectors are very "poorly" wired right now later ~Kenny

It was just a clip from some website I downloaded about a year ago so I dont remember. sorry

Thought I used to have that vid on the computer but its gone now I could only find the vid of the HKS skyline running a 5.05 1/8 mile.....

http://datsun.org/sroc/shako.html Found these pictures over at http://www.northwestnissans.com and thought I Would pass them along to the Z community ~Kenny

I believe mazda actually had a four rotor in thier le-mans car. Cant remember where I read about it or who I heard the info from...... later all! Happy wankle-ing ~Kenny

The idea behind a BOV is to vent boost while you are in a high boost/closed throttle situation (ie when you are shifting) That being said the BOV should be placed post turbo and pre-throttlebody. Closer to the Throttle body is better. I have usually heard 6 inches is a good number to have. Since I assume you are running a MAF setup you will want to have the BOV "vent" back into the system after the MAF and before your turbo. the idea being you are feeding the turbo its own boost to keep it spooled for that split second you are shifting. If you vent it to the atmosphere you may experience some rich running condtions if the BOV opens any durring idle and while you are shifting.(mmm flames ) Hopefully this helps you out some. later! ~Kenny

I was running a cartec kit on my car for 6 months untill I broke three pistons it didnt like being over boosted and under-fueled for that second. I was running a cartec rising rate FPR (4:1 ratio) with stock fuel pump, injectors and AFM. I have a feeling if you can keep an eye on the A/F mixture the pistons may stay together longer. An extra injector controller say from SDS EFI and one or two extra injectors may be able to help you out. I am suprised no one has jumped in and said how much better it is to just find a ZXT and do the swap. Good luck and happy boosting!! ~Kenny

I cant wait to put mine on the scales now. It went on the bumper diet and I am curious how much those things actually wiegh! (75 bumpers are huge!) ~Kenny

I am goin to be doing mine with 2.5 from the turbo to intercooler and 2.75 (if I can find it) from the IC to the TB. just out of curiousity, what path is your piping going to follow? Im still deciding on which way mine is goin to go. Later ~Kenny

according to Max Boost by Corky Bell..... CC/minute = lbs/hour x 10.5 SOOOOOO your 370cc injectors come out to 35.2lbs per hour. Assuming I know how to do 9th grade math that should be correct HTH ~Kenny

I personally wouldnt do much more than 2 10's in the back of a Z. I dont think on the show circut you have to have a zillion speakers that fill up the whole entire car. I assume judges are looking for originallity and also neat-ness. IE how your wires are run, placement of amps, speakers and neon (a must now a day ) Also if you are goin for some sort of sound qualitly other than rap/bass style music you will want to stay as far away from bandpass boxes as possible. They are "boomy" and only play well in a small band. There is a ZX on this site somewhere that has 4 15" woofers built into a wall behind the drivers/passenger seat with all the amps and shiz mounted in the back. Pretty nuts! For me, I am goin to run 1 10" behind a strut pointing twards the back, two 5 1/4 3ways in the back, two 5 1/4 component sets in the front kick panels or doors (not sure yet) with a 5 channel amp (50x4 and 200x1) I think this will be plenty of a system to deal with my musical tastes. I guess I am goin to stop rambling now Good Luck with you system! ~Kenny

Only a 20 point turn to get out of the driveway I saw a few cars like that out in the mid west last summer. couldnt stop laughin

Also please be aware that your compression ratio doesnt have a direct effect on your spool-up the way you are thinking. The A/R of the turbo is the biggest contributing factor to spoolup. (ie in the "my turbo is at full boost at 3000rpm" way ) It does affect the off boost drive-ablity of the motor resulting a a fast spool time (ie its at full boost in 1.3 sec.) Lastly, speaking from experience (I had four broken ring lands when I tore my motor apart) it is way better to get turbo pistons maybe with a different head to boost the compression. The NA pistons just arent made to take the boost most people want to throw at them. Mine broke at 10 psi and one audible knock .... it was toast afterwards

I paid $200 for mine. It had all the machine work done and was ready to go. I think I got a good deal. so maybe $100-250 depending on what you are willing to pay for

Thanks guys! should be up and running by friday

I realize that the SDS needs power both while the key is in the on position and also while it is cranking. I guess what I am asking is what wire (or wires) have power when the key is in both positions. I thought I had it figured out but the wire I picked didnt work out so well. Thanks from anyone who has the answer! oh yah my car should be back on the road once I figure this all out and put the hood back on Later all! ~Kenny