BRAAP

I’ve done a fair amount of research into such a project on and off for around 10 years now in an effort to build one just for the sake of making that really cool turbine noise! (During Aviation maintenance school spent some time covering the theory and principles of Turbine engines, disassembled a full scale axial flow turbine and ran it after reassembly, way friggin cool!... That is where most of these pics came from.) I’ll post up some of my research info here for you guys that are serious about building one. I was going to use a HUGE by LARGE Turbo, (currently for sale), for my project, but now would just prefer a much smaller Turbo such as a T04 size, (smaller means less fuel/longer run times and will spin more RPM, and the sound is the only reason I want one, no plans to power anything, just make high pitch turbine noises in the shop… ) The site listed above is great source of info. Another good resource for info is NYE Thermo dynamics. This guy has built many a DIY Turbine, played with afterburners in the quest for more thrust, even Turbo charged his wood stove, running at 12 PSI boost!!! Great picture of it running on his page.. Click ME for the Nye Turbine page... One of NYE’s basic DIY Afterburner turbines in action… Designing the burner can and testing it is where the time and engineering is. The ability to coral/channel the flame within the burner can and using the air from the compressor to keep the flame from coming in contact with inner liner so it doesn’t burn up, getting all those air holes the proper size so when the fuel is introduced, it isn’t too lean or too rich, (remember, there is no throttle like a gasoline engine, these are like diesels in that you control fuel flow only for more RPM/thrust). Only a small portion of the air is used for combustion, most of the air going through the Turbine is for cooling and flame containment. Not only do the holes in the inner liner have to positioned to coral the flame, but not be too many or too few in an effort to maintain a burnable air fuel ratio within the burner can. The design must also allow for differing fuel flows while maintaining the correct amount of air to feed the flame, without being too much or too little. Results are Flame out, burner cans melts, excess Turbine inlet Temps, (T.i.T. for short, not to be confused with your wifes dirty pillows ), can get too high which would melt the turbine section of the turbo. Fueling. The easiest and quickest way to fuel a DIY Turbine is Propane. Propane in a bottle is contained and is also where its pressurized. Just add the regulator, flow valve of sorts and fuel line to the fuel nozzle. Propane burns clean and is readily available. For those also wanting that smell of the flight line at Beale Air Force base, Kerosene, JET-A or B is where it’s at. You’ll need a container, (should be easy), and a pump and a means of controlling fuel flow. An old Z car EFI pup should be adequate. Diesel can also be used with the same result as Kerosene and Jet fuel though the smell of diesel is not quite as intoxicating, (those that have been around running turbines know what I’m talking about…) Do NOT use gasoline! The inherent dangers of using gasoline in project like this are are to risky for hobbyist, even genius hobbyist to consider. Just don't do it. You will blow yourself up! You've been warned! Here are some pics which should help get you started… Burner can of an early axial flow Turbine. Note the inner liner and the holes/louvers, spacing/sizing, etc. Injector nozzle in the center, has dedicated air holes surrounding the nozzle. This burner/combustion can is approx 24” in Length. The entrance to a burner can. Injector hole in the middle. This is a Can-annular style combustor section as used on modern turbines. One continuous burner-can surrounding the turbine shaft vs the older individual can style turbines. Can annular combustor sections, as you can see, are far more complex in design… Note the injector nozzles and the swirl inducers surrounding the injector… Here are a couple designs from others that have successfully built a DIY Turbine. Here is the inner liner of a DIY burner-can that was operational… Here is another. Note the discoloration… Here is that same Burner prior/after a burner can test. A leaf lower is used to simulate the air flow the compressor section would produce, (this is no where by exact, but is better than nothing and will et you close enough…), and you can look right in the burner section itself to visually “see” if the flame contacts the liner at any point and verify the flame isn’t on the verge of blowing out, etc. Note the EGT sensor, duct taped PVC to the leaf blower, ignition source…. Another combustor test in process… Test stand and overall design layout… My gi-normous turbo, FOR SALE! (next to a stock L28ET turbo for scale)

Justin. The VIN for the "shell/car" is stamped into the firewall, easy to find. Don't forget the dash VIN as well. My guess is if the car is a 240, tagged as a 280, it was/is a stolen 240. Write down the VIN that is stamped on the firewall and verify it as “clean” with the DMV. If the current owner gets suspicious about your writing the firewall VIN down, just thank him for his time and go straight to the authorities and alert them of this situation. If it is indeed a "HOT" Z, I’m sure its owner would be pleased to have it returned.

VW TDI?.... I’m sure someone can conjur up a Fahrvergnügen a slogan befitting a VW powered Z.. Build it....

Compared to that, I’d like to think my R/C piloting skills be likened to “falling with style”… Installed the Lipo saver, and few other overhaul goodies, talked my daughter into filming another flight in the pasture. Boy is the plane a hoot to fly. This video is a short collage of just goofing around maneuvers, nothing to brag about, just having fun, (This Slow Stick is 3 channel; Rudder, Elevator, and engine speed control, NO ailerons). Some very low and slow flight, a touch of inverted, a pretty good hammer head, hanging on the prop, buzzing the tower. etc. Li-po saver kicked in at 10 minutes, 48 seconds of flight time. Video is only one minute 41 seconds… GWS Slow Stick with Outrunner and Lipo upgrade. 46" wing span.

Pete, my report was from the N/A NON HICAS cars, (my N/A ’90, and ’93 Z-32 and my ’96 Q-45, same rear suspension). Not sure how much the HICAS adds to the “feel" of the multi links vague unpredictable rear suspension. I’m on the fence with poly bushings in the rear of the multi link suspension as bushing flex is a key aspect of how this suspension functions, i.e. the bushings HAVE to deflect for the suspension to articulate, if the bushing are harder that forces the control arms into bind and increases suspension stiction, and if those bushing were solid such as aluminum, the control arms would be locked and would not move, other than the control arms flexing. Hiem joints sound like the way to go, I’m curious, if ALL of the rear control arm bits were 100% heim jointed, if the rear suspension would move or be locked into position? In looking it over up close, I think it will still articulate, though some of the designed in attributes of this suspension will be lost as bushing deflection would be 100% lost and is one of those attributes. For the hard core discerning track driver, that could be a good thing, or a bad thing.

Finally got some video of the Slow Stick in action. It is Hybrid of sorts, Renault F-1 V-8 conversions, seems to power it quite well, don’t you think? *** EDIT *** Middle Daughter Lelaina, (aka FUZZY), is credited for the videography...

This link below, covers dizzy options regarding EDIS, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114801&highlight=EDIS+Distributor This link follows a couple completed EDIS installs from beginning to up and running. It’s long, but LOTS of good info within… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 Good luck, Paul

:lmao:

My apologies gentlemen. The information I posted regarding the 2004R trans for the Cyclone and Typhoon was incorrect. They both use the 700R4 trans. Thank you Z-noob for catching that and correcting my error. To further interest in possibly using the GM transfer case, I was able to dig up the manufacture and model of the Cyclone/Typhoon transfer case… Borg Warner 1372/4472.

PERFECT!!!!

The GMC Typhoon and Cyclone, (factory Turbo charged 4.3-L AWD rocket ships), used the 2004R tranny married to a transfer case. The Summit Racing Quadradeuce utilized a Typhoon/Cyclone transfer case that they successfully married it to a T-56. I have also heard that the AWD GMC Safari and its sister the AWD Chevy Astro van with the 4.3 engine utilized the “same” transfer case as the Typhoon and Cyclone. Any how, with the JTR V-8 conversion, there is “maybe” enough room to get an R-180 or R-200 up front. An R-180 should be plenty beefy enough for a front diff, even for a built V-8. There should definitely be enough room with the shorter turbocharged 4.3 front front diff in an S-30, or set the V-8 further back in the chassis. Biggest issue is getting the driveshaft from the transfer case up to the front diff without loosing too much foot well space…. QuadraDuece article...

Regarding engine loads and load paths this raises a question. (Ron, I’m borrowing from your post which I think I’m talking about the same thing?) With the engine mounted to the cross member, all vertical loads, engine weight, etc, are transmitted through the cross member, into the lower frame rail, through the fender apron/strut tower to the upper rail/strut tower where the weight of the car and engine rest on the upper spring perch. Lateral loads, such as in a corner, with the engine mounted on the cross member, the “lateral weight”, or lateral load, of the engine is now transferring directly through the cross member directly to the lower control arms, i.e. the chassis/frame rails aren't seeing any real lateral loads from the engine, (except from the tranny mount of course). Now if the engine was mounted directly to the frame rails, the vertical load path is slightly altered as the engine weight is now being induced to the lower frame rail further rearward. To a MUCH larger degree is the fact that now the lower frame rail is also seeing the lateral loads of the engine through the lower frame rail to the cross member then on into the lower control arm, i.e. asking the lower frame rails to take on a LOT more forces laterally that it never used to see with the engine mounted to the cross member. Is that an issue for an autocross/street car regarding chassis flex and controlling load paths through the chassis? I’m not sure, and I guess it would depend on how serious the approach is to such a track car and also how sensitive the driver is to such things and how much comprise he/she is willing to live with. Granted, this scenario did not take into account any chassis strengthening mods and is all theory.

YEE HAA!!!! Great shot and an incredible launch... This will be the default photo for those questioning the strength of the R-200!!!

Or something like these options? Click ME for the eBay auction pictured below... Here is another lightweight approach. This bracket resides between the water pump and block. This approach might need a mid plate as well, or you could possibly fab some brace that also attaches to the SBC mount pads on the side of the block and ties into this bracket?

First off, I realize you had asked for material thickness options, sorry as I do not have any answers regarding that. Though, a couple alternatives did come to mind and I hope you don’t mind me throwing them up here in this thread… Possibly use mounts off the “front” of the block, using some isolator in the OE Datsun cross-member?… Click ME for the mount below... Click ME for the mount below... Click ME for the mount below... Click ME for the mount below... Click ME for the isolators below... Some mid plate options... Click ME for the mount below... Click ME for the mount below...

Heads up fella’s… Generally we turn a blind eye to some of the risque posts, but when the discussion, pics, etc turns to R and/or XXX, posts start to disappear, and if that sort of behavior continues, the entire thread disappears. Chalk up 2 posts now deleted….. next is the entire thread! This is an extreme performance car forum, not a porn forum. We make an attempt to keep it as professional and family friendly as possible. If you all want porn, go play on/in those forums. Do NOT post any questionable material or say anything that you would not want your wife/girlfriend, or your own children to see/read. Good day, Paul Ruschman HybridZ staff

As far as I’m aware, California cars received cats prior to the “49 state” cars. In short, not all Z cars of the same year had a cat factory installed, some had a factory installed dog, depending on the year and what state received that car of course. As for the Canuck cars, cats are feral. Hope that helps.

Performance numbers are great!!! Then when you have to step out the front door of your house and look at that packaging surrounding the performance numbers and... uh... well… Diverse sums it up well…

Pics would be very helpful. Here is a “how to post pics on HybridZ” thread. Click ME for "How to post pics on HybridZ"

Ah, wasn’t it Smokey Y. that once said… … “he who cheats best, wins!!!!” …

I guess it would be state dependant. This is quoted from the FAQ regarding Cali smog law. A 75 280Z would have to go through smog testing, 1974 260-Z and early cars do not. Again, this could be state dependant. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100533

For a restoration project/stock 240-Z, I prefer the British Racing Green with Tan interior, that combo on a restored to the period sports car is quite soothing to the eye.

I didn't know anyone still knows what that is! My father and I used to fly line control back in the late ‘80s. Mostly scratch built planes' date=' powered with Cox .049 and the Cox TeeDee .051. Last one I was building I never finished. Now some 19 years later, it is still setting on the shelf. [img']http://mescal.pixelized.ch/smilies/wow.gif[/img] Plan was to fly it once with a pair of Black Widow .049’s, then hang it from the ceiling. Here it is as it sits today. I lost the gondola in our move some 6 years ago. All my engines are now lined up on a shelf over looking my hobby bench. Other hobbies consist of; Flying, (the real thing) Electric RC flying, (just took this up in the last month) Driving the Z-32 Adult air rifles Amateur photography And of course starting several HybridZ projects. This is one of only a couple that ever were driven...

Here was my first one, '75 280-z. Not real pretty, but somewhat separated. Here is another, much shorter wires.

Mopar, Yes it was L-6 powered. The car is now owned by another HybridZ member. Primadonna, The tires are Formula Atlantic slicks, car was built for the SCCA Solo-II F-prepared class. Rear a 13” x13”, fronts are 13” x 10”.