BRAAP

JTR has been around since I think the late '80's, building and selling Z car engine conversion kits since at least the mid '90's, did my first JTR V8 Z back in '97. There is no reason to be leery of JTR. Customer service is is reliable, they stand behind what they sell. They are well established having been around for long time, they plan to continue, having invested in some very nice CNC equipment over the past couple years that is helping them to not only improve their current kits, but offer more kits and engine conversion bits and pieces for other vehicles. I keep in touch with JTR on a semi regular basis and the past few months they have been real busy, as such, delayed E-mail replies are to be expected. When time permits, JTR is good at replying to E-mails, phone calls, etc. I do know that shipping to Canada is expensive and Mike has mentioned is also a bit of a headache, so be prepared. If you have a friend/relative on the states side of the border that JTR can ship to and then you/them can hand carry the parts across, you might look into that.

That car is friggin cool!

In the past, I too have used the cheap-o Krylon, gloss black, that lasted for more than year, looked fine, especially for rattle can.

That was incredible. The detail, sounds and music aligned perfectly to the video, (little things like at shot 06:00 hour, frame 11,300, cool crisp morning, the song fits perfect... )

The upper bushing for the quill shaft is the dizzy housing. Remove the dizzy and you now have removed that upper support/bushing, (see pic below, note the light around the quill shaft looking down through the dizzy mount). Quill shaft is supported in the front cover above the drive gear and below the drive gear with the oil pump housing. Others have just left it to spin unsupported with no reported problems. I personally prefer to take the extra couple minutes to remove the oil pump, draw out the quill shaft and just cut it with a hack saw. The quill shaft itself is a soft steel, cuts very easy and does not need to be "clocked" to any position when reinstalled now that the dizzy has been deleted.

That was fun to watch. Thanks for sharing.

Matt, Three things come to mind that could be causing this. 1) Busted Brake Booster diaphragm. IF the idle RPM thing seems to be related to brake pedal actuation, this could be the cause. With the your engine running, car stopped, push in on the brake pedal, slowly, keep pushing harder and harder, your RPM should not rise, or if so, only maybe 100 RPM and then settle back down as your the brake pedal stops moving. (The faster the pedal travels down, that will cause a 100-200 RPM rise then fall, but that is generally it.) 2) Throttle sticking. a) If the pedal feels unusually soft and easy to push down, good chance the throttle return spring on the Throttle body is rusted/busted. Pivot points and ball/socket joints in the throttle linkage dry, gummed up, etc. Lube all pivots, ball/socket joints etc. 3) B.C.D.D., (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device), is supposed to behave in the manner you described your issue, though it is supposed to be subtle, sometimes can be exaggerated as these cars age. The BCDD is the goofy looking protrusion on the bottom of the throttle body. I have not spent any time personally getting them to work properly, only removing them. If you search for BCDD, B.C.D.D., or Boost Controlled Deceleration Device, you quite a bit more info on it, how and why it does what it does, etc. Here are a few specific threads on the topic of the BCDD; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/23280-runaway-idle/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/88866-strange-idle-issue-78-280z/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/70142-bcdd-removed-now-backfires-at-downshift/ Hope that helps, Paul

:lmao: Now I see it.. :lmao: Hope he leaves it up. I'm sure the received E-mails are priceless...

Just be sure whatever filter you use is "free-flowing" and will not pose any restriction or you will end up with the pump cavitating, severely shortening its life. I do not suggest installing any reducer in the low pressure fuel line either, same reason as above.

WOW! Only a thousand dollars for some Fairlady sheetmetal? Someone get the VIN off the firewall and run it through DMV/state police, just in case.

Thanks for the update. I have also been hearing great things about ViPEC.

SuperDan is still scared of the ball... :lmao:

Scotty, The new software has a different architecture than the old V-Bulletin software. Some features are nice, others are a little clunky, not as intuitive. Any how, here is the run down for getting to your signature. Click the little arrow to the right of your user name, upper right corner of the screen. Drop down menu comes down, click "My Settings" Next window will be a row of tabs, Settings--Forum--Profile--Blogs--Downloads--Gallery--Links, click "Profile" The list that opens under "Profile" contains the option, "Change Signature", and other attributes in the Tab list on the left. Hope that helps, Paul

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=300ZX+Safety+boost&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 http://www.nissanforums.com/z32-chassis-300zx/65627-300zx-tt-stock-boost.html

Being a BMW driver thread on HybridZ, here are a few interesting Hybrid BMW’s. Buick/Rover V8 powered E21; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1299951 LT1 powered E46 with a first start up vid clip; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1441801 E39 with Turbo LSx, in car and drive by vid clip in post 248; http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1045119

Ditto what those said. If you decide to keep the OE EFI, (leaving power on the table doing so), leave the cam stock as the OE EFI does have enough tune-ability to tune around how a cam changes the VE curve. Stock EFI means stock cam. If you go aftermarket EFI, (get rid of that AFM from the air stream is big plus), then you can install a cam and take advantage of what bigger cam offers. As they said, search this forum for the specifics you listed and you will find tons of info that will help guide down the path of what mods will bring the most bang or the buck and which ones wont deliver anything other than "Ricer-appeal"!

Here ya be, LOTS of L-6 EDIS info from a few of us that have done it. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/38513-v3-edis-x-installation-set-up-etc/

I keep seeing this thread pop up in "New posts" and every time I get ready to contribute, Cable has already covered it, and then some! Nothing more to add other than, thank you Cable. As already covered, the label “Truck engine” vs “Car engine” means squat diddly other than what variant of the LSx family the engine started life from! This also applies to other monikers as well. People that pass judgment on a power plant based on the term “Truck” vs “Car” without actually looking into what those differences really are, is.... not to put to fine a point on it, an idiot! It's a shame there are so many of these "computer engine builders" out there, blindly trying to persuade others with their uneducated ill contrived bias/judgment as fact because their feable little minds inability to open and get passed the fact that the term “Truck engine” does not automatically denote an inferior power-plant, perpetuating more automative performance myths that many newbs trying to glean as much factual tech as they can, buy into! Ok, enough ranting… My personal experience on the topic, having gone with the 5.3L LM7 as the interim choice for my LSx project, long term powerplant to be based on the 6.0L. I have also found price to purchase an LSx outright, the truck engines, in particular the iron block 5.3L are generally much easier on the pocket book. As Cable mentioned, there were more 5.3L engines produced than all other LSx RPO's combined! Weight of the iron block vs aluminum block variants being around 65-70 lbs, (all else being equal, cranks, damper, FEADS, intake, exhaust mani's etc). Depending on what FEADS one needs, (GM speak for Front Engine Accessory Drive System), and how resourceful they are using eBay, Craigslist and the various LSx forums, the truck power plants can still come in for less after being re-outfitted with the car FEADS than a comparable car LSx with the needed FEADS already on it. For some that only need the water pump and alternator, (no A/C, no P/S, etc) it is even easier. Used items for the LSx can be had for good prices. Some examples of deals I have ran across are; F-body LS1 intake manifold for only $55 shipped. Picked up the 0968 grind LS1 Vette cam with LOW miles, (.500" lift, 115.5 LSA) for only $65 shipped. Brand new LS6 take out lifters for $110 shipped. Brand new LS6 yellow, take out valve springs for $55 shipped, etc. As Cable pointed out, when going for a cam swap wanting to use OE cams, the '02+ LS6 cam is a good choice, especially over the milder '01 LS6 cam, (same duration, lift and LSA as the LS2 cams). Do beware when placing WTB ads as the scammers/thief's are prowling the WTB sections of the car forums. I got ripped off trying to source the milder '01 LS6 cam for my little 5.3, known documented scammer/thief Ernesto Gonzales Castillo found my WTB ad for that cam, contacted me Via E-mail, we carried on several E-mails back and forth, he even supplied picture of the cam with the casting number, I paid for it never heard from him again, then a little research found this; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/negative-trader-feedback/818849-scammer-alert-ernesto-gonzalez-castillo.html Too bad I didn’t search first. Truck LSx, great bang for the buck, OH yeah, especially if the buyer is resourceful in acquiring the other necessary hardware/accy needed for their conversion project.

Way cool Bawb-Dawg. Looking forward to updates with crazy mods.

Dave, Very nice... So we can expect to see you over on Bimmerforums as well now, right?

Dave, If a stock 335xi leaves you wanting more, they do respond to boost. Local guy to us runs a Turbo 2007 335xi, 377 AWHP, 392 AWTQ. 12.7@ 108 MPH in the video below... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1465931 Launches pretty aggressively!