LS1 240Z

you can purchase chevy truck 5.3s and 6.0s with transmissions for under $2000 you will spend that if not more on putting a rebuilt small block in it, and the 5.3 and 6.0 will behave like LSx motors for the most part

just as a point i want to say that cardomain SUCKS

1. appears to be 2. thought that it was a nose so it would use the stock hood 3. thats the answer to #3 4. probably, looks like you need a diffrent hood because yours is pretty cut up, then you would only need the headlight buckets a bumper and a lower air dam 5. everyone has their personal tastes. i think the G nose can look good if they are done right.

personaly i think that it looks kinda trashy... i like the nitrous bottles that have flames on them, but the only car ive ever seen those flames look good on was a 32 high boy.

if you are going with a 350, rip everything out except for the steering and the brake booster and only put back what you need (which probably wont be any of that stuff, i dont even know what that stuff is)

there, i fixed it i dont know what the deal was, when i posted it before it was there, i edited it and it looks fine now

personaly i wouldnt do it. but i think its pretty safe as long as you use longer studs or a spacer that has studs

im sure even though its messed up there are guys out there who want that motor.

cant spin the motor to 7k without rod bolts, stock rod bolts stretch. the stock oil pumps have sometimes been known to fail and not have enough volume for upper RPMs. the LS2 timing chain is 40 bucks from GM. its a much better design than the LS1 style. if you are going to cam it all that stuff is right under the front cover, so you might as well change it so you dont regret it later.

thanks, the bold print is really what i needed, i wanted to know how the engines weight was distributed to the front/rear. seach feature just chaps my ass cheeks. you get 6789 posts about nothing related to what you post. if you seach for other stuff its fairly easy to figure it out. but this was something that didnt show up at all

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=464915&highlight=300ZX i can see you have been asking around LS1 tech. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110856&highlight=300ZX http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489155&highlight=300ZX i didnt know if you found those two threads or not. it has been done, so my suggestion would be to talk to those guys

for now thats the only pic i have of the backhalving. i have some more pics of it now that i have the car completely stripped. what you are looking at is a 4 link and a ford 9 inch with QA1 coil overs and a stock LS1 gas tank. im not sure exactly how im going to do the floor pans... but i guess ill just start and go from there haha

it isnt in that bad of shape, it needs some inner fender work and quarters put on it, personaly i think he could make more money if he fixed it and sold it. it is a 1SC "stripper" car, meaning it dosent have power windows, locks, mirrors, seat or any fog lights. car should be worth in the 12-14 range.

i agree, decent deal for a LS1/T56 combo. snag as much stuff from the donor car the guy will let you. do you plan on camming it? the 2002-4 LS1s are the best because they have good oil return, stronger rod bolts, LS6 intakes and LS6 clutches. you could easily see 400+ rwhp with swaping your rod bolts, oil pump, timing chain, cam and springs.

personaly id get more of a boost oriented cam. dont get one for like all out boost but get a cam that wouldnt be a complete dog N/A. some examples id use would be the LS1 "sleeper" cams. a bit more duration, a slight increase in LSA but a large jump in lift. but no, i dont think the hot cam would be all that bad for a NA then later mild boost set up, it shouldnt be on to much of an LSA or duration to bleed off boost.

i searched, didnt come up with any post on LT1 weight distribution. LS1s and LQ4s are also completely diffrent motors, so LT1 weight dist would be of minimal help. i found posts on LS1 weight distribution and i know that they come up to be either 50/50 or rear weight biased. i wanted to specificly know if anybody had an LQ4 or any other iron blocked gen 3/4 motor in their Z and what their weight dist is. its not like im asking about the toyota brake swap for my car here. you, my friend, by calling me a "prick" are in violation of rule #8 you so anxiously quoted. he didnt give me advice, he told me to seach. he took time to type out a lengthy post, why not just say "1400/1430 lbs LS1 M6 conversion" it would have actualy been SHORTER than the post he made. when i first read his post i thought he was telling me that i need to know the weights of my LS1, i already know this. i also posted that i knew the weight diffrence of the iron block, the way it was worded was not clear that he had posted weight dist numbers, when i went through and seached for his post (did this before i typed a response) it was still difficult to find his post with the info in it, but i eventualy found it. it still dosent really answer my question about how weight would be affected, but i do know generaly what to expect. the motor is almost completely behind the front wheels, but that means that its going to throw more weight onto the front than rear. so, still no exact answer. dont take time to write out a post just to say "use the search feature" its stupid and it wastes everybodys time. remeber what mamma said? "if you dont have anything nice or helpful to say dont say anything at all." i realize this is a message board, and some people dont want to post stuff they have posted several times before, so just dont post anything if you dont want to. im not trying to start an argument or be a jerk here, i just gets annoying when people post in your thread "do a search"

there has to be one in each thread. you are the winner for this one. i wasnt asking about the weight diffrence, i already posted that i know it weighs 100 lbs more, i was asking what other LS1 hybrid guys were getting for weight dist. thanks for being absolutly no help. i know the L92 has a 4.06 inch bore, but i thought that the heads on the LS7 and L92 were the same, with only the LS7s being factory ported. so i figured LS7 heads would work on the LQ4, but i guess not. where would be the best place to get L92 heads. i still dont know if i want to use the LS1 with 243 heads (maybe ported) or the LQ4 with L92 heads. decisions decisions

bump on place of purchase? i want some..

i have an LS1 and an LQ4 right now. i have to decide if i want 243 stock/ported and run the LS1 or if i want to shell out the money for LS7 heads to put on the LQ4 since it has a 4.00 inch bore

4.00 inch bore

my car has been home backhalved. just cut out alllll the floor inside the rear fenders. the guy who i bought it from did the frame rails to close to the outside IMO and i can only fit a 315 tire in there *me pissed off* i wanted to run a 335/15 inch MT drag radial, but so much for that plan. i hope to get a bunch of pics here soon

*******, you are doing exactly what i wanted to do lol. turning all the chrome into matte black. i plan on powdercoating all chrome pieces/hood/rear lid matte black also. i like the smoothed cowl, the rear bumper.. dont like so much, i like the curve around look more, but they look good, if i didnt know id say they are factory. just personal opp. here

body pannels are easily replaced, look at floor pans and most importantly "frame"/mounting points under the body

ok, so the LQ4 weighs roughly 100 lbs more becuase its an iron block, what do you think that it would do to my weight dist? if the car was 100 lbs heavier in the front? what are you LS1 M6 guys comming up with weight/weight dist?

gay... saw you around tech also... im cop car on there.