Kurbycar32

I still love my Z on aluminium and its displayed proudly in my garage. if i had a man cave it would be in there.. Seriously i'll take a Lamborghini Countach if you make one.

Newzed touched on all the troubleshooting points but heres exactly what i would do: 1. disconnect the blue wire entirely and don't worry about the tach until the car runs. 2. run through the coil test procedure in your book. I beleive my coil is close to 1.5 ohm. I couldn't get the new dizzy to work at all with a higher resistance coil, specifically a 3.5 ohm bosch blue. in this case a stock coil works perfectly 3. working with a known good coil with the tach and ignition module disconnected if it still doesnt work look at the ignition module on the zx dizzy. I was unable to find a test procedure for these but do a resistance test on it. If the circuit is wide open is definitely bad but we cant prove its good with a resistance test (that i know of).

I just went though this on my early 260z and it turned out i had a bad coil that really confused things. The coil worked with the factory 260z distributor but pretty much failed to function with the 280zx dizzy. I used this document and its working. Be sure to unplug your ignition module from the passenger footwell, if you leave that in with the zx dizzy your car wont run or at least mine didnt. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104933-1974-260z-with-e12-80-280zx-distributor-swap-wiring-with-tach-hook-up/

Its a terrible carb to use here in America. It was only sold for here 1 year and parts availability is practically zero. Swapping them with anything supported by the industry makes life drastically easier. To be clear I'm not a round top activist like some of the people on here (hell I ran DVG's and loved them) but I do recommend using something that works and is serviceable. Nissan flat top carbs are basically the technological equivalent of the betamax; better than but the industry didn't adopt it so its orphaned.

That right there is what did me in. Many of the hard parts in my flat tops are worn out and dont seal correctly anymore.

I'm using a set of flat tops to hold down some paperwork in my garage right now. Seriously though my L26 came with flat tops and despite their bad reputation I tried to rebuild them anyway. After tearing down the carbs I found that many of the hard parts (bearings especially) had worn out and were no longer available. Since these terrible carbs werent used very long there is little information or parts available to us. your best bet is to change the carbs with something else. I used a set of webers DVG's with the isky cam for a while and they worked just fine, I have a set of modified 4 screw SU carbs on the new motor now.

Asbestos is still used in developing countries and while its a carcinogen you shouldn't fear a single gaskets worth of material. Essentially you want to avoid shredding asbestos into any type of dust so that your dont inhale it. In fact according to asbestos.com using asbestos as a gasket is still totally legal in the US. Despite the carcinogens your actual question is "Should I use this old petrified gasket we found at my grandpas house?" and the answer to that is no just buy a new gasket

Yup these Haggerty guys claim you can drive your car but in reality you cant. They declined to cover my car because I said I would take my son for ice cream on the occasional Sunday. I also heard some horror stories about cars that were damaged in parking lots and the policies were revoked because they weren't being used in a qualified manner (to and from events). I ended up getting a mostly conventional policy with Progressive

My experience is that the "new" heater cores from regular parts stores are mostly junk. I suspect that maybe they were rebuild 20 years ago and then rotted in a warehouse. I went through 4 "new" units from 2 different auto parts stores that were all badly corroded before ultimately getting mine rebuilt at a local radiator shop. I cant speak for Z car source but if they get their parts from the regular parts chain I would skip it. My local radiator shop did an excellent job and I don't regret it.

I concur with intake and exhaust restrictions. Childrens motorcycles are restricted in exactly the same way. As previously suggested build restriction plates for both the intake and exhaust manifolds and then tune your carbs to match the new flow. This is going to be tricky to determine if you are under 180hp without a dyno though. If this is a regular problem i would consider using another set of stock carbs tuned to your restriction plates so you could bolt on a known system in the future. An RPM limiter set real low might help as well. Good luck

When i needed a new windshield i just called up the local automotive glass shop. The windshield was special order but available in something like 3 days and im pretty sure it cost me $150 installed. I paid an extra $50 and they came out to the house and installed it in my driveway which was a bit bonus since my car didnt have a windshield at all..

KnuckleDuster looks like he has one pretty cheap, lets see if his comes up. If it doesnt send me a PM

like this one? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2144

Yes you do need to account for some changes there. I used a larger clutch sleeve that has a removable bearing

The Santa Rosa area is pretty cool, I used to live there. If you are into beer Russian River is a regional legend. Bodega bay isn't too far off of your route and its beautiful this time of year. its the place where "The Birds" was filmed and you can find decent camping at the bodega sand dunes. The whole area is loaded with wineries too, especially healdsburg. Theres not much between Santa Rosa and the bay. I cant say seen everything but i don't remember anything but a nice drive between the Santa Rosa area and Eureka which is a good chunk of your journey. In northern California 101 forks with route 1, which is a legendary drive full of beaches and tiny ocean side villages. If you do go route 1 Mendocino is a cool place to stop. Its basically a hippy commune but the (organic conflict free fair trade commune-owned) coffee is excellent and its a quiet place to have a relaxing vacation.

Glad i bought mine when i did!

That was a detailed explanation, thanks for the education

While I don't disagree my experience came first hand and perhaps the similarities were so close I didn't notice. The vehicle was a 1968 ford bronco. It came to a friend of mine with a 350w that may or may not have come with the truck. We swapped in a 80's 5.0 H.O from a fox body mustang when the 351 blew up. The motor slipped right in and mounted in the existing motor mounts. Do you anticipate a problem mounting the motor, or having fitting issues following the lane guide?

The Ford windsor family includes the 289, 302 and 351 engines and ultimately are the same block. The reason the motor in question is called "windsor" is to as not confuse it with the "cleveland" family, which while similar is a totally different motor entirely. The guide should be the same for all windsor family motors.

Does this place still exist? The domain name expired and the website is gone

I took my locks in to get rekeyed, the lock guy handed me an assorted collection of these things when he saw mine were disintegrating. I dont have any spares, but a locksmith might have that type of thing lying around in your town.

These dudes joined a pair of busa motors to make a 200lb, 400hp V8: http://www.h1v8.com/page/page/1562069.htm Its super expensive..

you gotta start with the basics: You said your car idles: Verify and fix your fuel pressure. i believe you should be around 4 psi but i don't have mikuni's so you need to verify that Check for vacuum leaks Check the timing and adjust if needed Balance your carbs at idle After you have your idle established you can adjust the carb tuning and possibly jetting. When a car falls on its face after idle that usually means the gap between the idle and main jets is too much, the fuel needs to come on smooth on a nice curve (fuel curve, not fuel cliff). Having the fuel pressure off will mess with all of this so you need to take care of the above list first.

I wrap all of the exhaust on my dirt bikes. The result is changing from a pipe that will melt your synthetic riding pants or boiling your flesh on contact into a pipe you can briefly touch with your bare hand. Wrapping is great, some people are concerned with rusting but that hasn't been a problem in my experience. My Z isn't wrapped yet (low on the priority list) but i do have sound deadening/heat resistant material on the interior side of the car including the tranny tunnel and its a massive difference in noticeable heat. I put my cell phone in the ashtray area and before the heat shielding that area was hot enough to force the phone to shut down and be hot to the touch, now its just a bit warm.

I cant make any personal recommendations but rebello has a good reputation with Z's, you might ask them. http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm