veritech-z

I discovered that today as a matter of fact. The only problem is I'm starting with a given wheel width as opposed to a given tire size, and I'd like to see what size tire would work best for that...Oh well, I guess you can't be spoon fed everything. Thanks for the heads up though.

I'm following the discussion, I realize what you are doing would not be an on/off flow switch, but a progressive restriction. Somebody made a comment earlier in the thread that they didn't believe that a car with no thermostat would overheat simply because there wasn't a thermostat in place, and I was just chiming in with some real world experience that yes, it is in fact possible for this to happen as I have seen it several times. That being said, does anybody know how Formula 1 cars handle their cooling situation? I would imagine that if they are using solenoid operated intake and exhaust valves, surely if this were a possiblity worth exploring it would have been done?

The scavenging effect that comes from "tuned" headers happens when one exhaust pulse actually pulls more gas from another cylinder by using it's velocity to "drag" it out. In order to do this the runners need to merge at precise distances so that the exhaust events coincide at the correct time. I don't see anything that looks like that from this manifold, but since we aren't talking about any actual science with this guy, how can you argue with him?

This stuff is pretty interesting, but the particulars of the design are a bit over my head. I can say that having 7 years in the auto parts industry at both the aftermarket and dealer level, I have personally witnessed cars that overheated in the absence of a thermostat that ran better with it in. In fact, I've even seen (and subsequently owned after it overheated and would no longer run) an S30 that exhibited this behavior.

I'm pretty sure the All -trac celica had the same motor the turbo MR-2 had (what was that anyway, the 3s-GTE?), which is definitely capable of big power. All wheel drive systems approaching 20 years old just make me a bit leery though....

Yeah Doc, that whole situation with the kids just blows me away...It reminds me of John Travolta's line from Pulp Fiction: "It would have been worth having them do it, if I could have caught him doing it..." It's too bad you weren't able to get any satisfaction at the scene...

I've always heard the FJ20 is no joke, and evidently that is the case! You guys in Australia have all the fun!

Now we're getting somewhere! I was looking all over for the recommended tire sizes for a given wheel width. You wouldn't happen to have that at your fingertips for a 17X8 as well as the 17X7, would you? As for bushings, I've only gotten as far as changing the sway bar end links front and rear, and the front mount bushings from the energy suspension complete kit. I put on the bump stops too, since when I changed the struts there were no bumpstops in evidence prior to that...I've not gotten around to doing the rest yet (the spindle pin horror stories have me spooked about those). -on a mostly un-related note, I'll be shipping those wheels to you tomorrow Brad. I'll pm you with a tracking number when I get one.

Actually no, they are Impul Hoshino Racing RS III wheels. I wanted advans, but they were too much/not available at the time. Plus these are super exclusive-I've never seen or heard of another set of this style anywhere else. I saw the whole wheel prices too, that is definitely outrageous for my budget and needs, but if the shells are closer to $200 per wheel, that might be an option down the road. Their wheels are nice though, reminiscent of SSR's Here is a pic of the wheels on the car (seems I've been posting this one everywhere lately):

That is exactly the type of thing I was looking for. How "not cheap" is "not cheap" though?

it's really high, something like +38 if I remember correctly. I'm using 1 1/4" hub adapters all around (see my other thread: changing wheel offset...)

Ok, so I checked it out when I got home, and sure enough, they are in fact 255/40-17's in the back. I guess I was having a blonde moment...

Sigh.... -edit- I want to keep the center section, what I need is the barrel part. shouldn't I be able to get a blank, and just drill it to the right hole spacing?

I think somebody needs to find a way to make a QR25DE rear wheel drive. Not so much for a z, but that would be killer in a 510.

The Mark III supra is well known to have head gasket problems, other than that they seem to be really fun and upgradeable. I feel that the 7m-GTE motor is one of those "fell through the cracks" performance engines, it could have been great if the 2jz-GTE (or 1JZ for that matter) weren't so awesome...As for the All-trac celica, they have decent sized turbo's from the factory (the one I saw did anyway), and they are intercooled. All in all, I don't know much about the celica from a reliablity standpoint, but there are still one or two kicking around here in tampa that seem to be running ok. Toyota builds a reliable car for the most part.

Those engines are popping up at pick and pulls around here in Florida. Flat engine price is $200 at LKQ regardless of cylinder count or configuration...

I suppose in retrospect, that that is the reason the pressure suddenly drops when there is a storm coming? It still seems counter intuitive, but since that came from USA Today and not Wikipedia, it has a bit more credibility for me...However, is the water vapor "replacing" the N2 and O2, or merely filling in the blanks between those molecules which would otherwise be empty space? If it were replacing the air, you should be unable to breath in 100% humidity...

My feelings on this go something along these lines: If there were some type of competition between the online forums, or some kind of open event, it would be really great to come together to represent the z community with the full resources of the site. I would rather see individual members step up to represent hybridz in their own way than to try and maintain a family car. I think that the way we are now, a loose confederation of talented and knowledgeable boys and girls that come together when we need or want to (but never really HAVE to) makes it a great community to be a part of. If we were to start funding a racing team, this would go from a community to a fraternity-meaning that we would turn this into a .com paysite instead of a .org and use the proceeds to operate this vehicle. I feel like we are at the same kind of turning point the colonies were in when they first banded together as a country: Strong central government with limited autonomy, or just enough government to protect us and let us make our own choices on how we get the day to day accomplished. Personally, I like to be able to pop in and check up on other z people and their projects, but don't like the idea of having to commit to an endeavor that I would have minimal say or input on from my corner of the internet. But I would like to get behind an effort to show our dominance over www.zcar.com (If anybody is going to issue that challenge formally, and would like an awe inspiring rattle can paint job, come on down to tampa and we'll git r dun...)

How is humid air less dense than dry air? You now have a liquid suspended between the molecules, filling up the spaces between them. Shouldn't that actually make the air MORE dense?

That was my favorite part, even more than the part where he is trying to sell you a $600 manifold that looks like he slapped it together in a garage by saying he doesn't have to prove that it works to you. I say just leave him be and watch the price magically come down after a few auctions with nobody buying it. Did you see the other things he's selling? Some kind of easy bake oven and a mustang fuel cell...kind of wierd.

maybe it's on some body part that shouldn't appear on the internet...

I'm interested in changing the offset of my wheels so that I can delete the hub adapters I'm using. Before anyone suggests just buying a different set, my wheel style is out of production, and I've never heard of another set being for sale. These are multi-piece wheels, so the center section SHOULD un-bolt, allowing me to mount it on the rim section from a different wheel (or so I imagine). Has anyone ever done anything like that? If so, where did you get the rim pieces? I always heard one of the reasons for making multi-piece wheels (aside from weight savings) was that they allowed a wheel shop to repair them by only changing out the bent section, so that must mean you can get them somewhere, right? Every internet search I've ever run has turned up a lot of places that will cut and widen a factory steel wheel, but nobody offering a service like the one I'm looking for.

So let's see it already!

Don't be sad guy, we still like you! I just wanted to know what it looked like, that's all.

Well, now that it comes down to it, I'm not sure...they SHOULD be 255/40-17's if they are factory sized porsche tires, but I was almost positive they were 255/50's...The front just seems to be sitting up higher to me, and they look taller to me at least...I think in that picture, the tire pressure is a bit low in the front. The other reason I'd like a slightly wider tire in the front is so the car won't push so much into corners.