veritech-z

If you see them side by side, the differences are obvious. R180: R200: The most obvious visual difference is in the mount to the mustache bar. Look close, and you'll notice the difference...

So were you testing a starter, or an alternator? Or a generator, like saturn likes to call them?

For some reason the white lettering totally takes away from the look...

It's probably because of the thin metal used in the header construction. I'm sure the "aerospace" coating has something to do with the heat not making it to the outside of the tubes as well. That's what it's for, after all.

That's the only way to shop in the aftermarket, and that's the sad truth unfortunately. Especially when you are dealing with engine swaps or general part interchanges for a particular model. However, from experience, with over 600 different models of car on the road available to choose from, expecting a high school/ college kid that is only there for the money and the discount to know everything about everything is asking a little much. The days when every part was interchangeable with everything else in a given manufacturer's lineup have been gone for about 20 years. If you expect to get the right stuff, you have to know exactly what you have, and most times, you have to know exactly the part number as well. If somebody would step up to the plate and design a better electronic parts catalog, most of those problems that arise from model to model variations in head gasket, brake pad style etc. would go away. Nobody know if they have JB1 or JB5 brakes on a 1986 chevy celebrity, but it's possible they have either one, and you can't use one in place of the other. Nobody with a 91-93 Honda Accord knows if Akebono or Nissen built their brake calipers, but you can't use the pads from one in the other. At the dealership level, we have a VIN input system that allows you to run the VIN and eliminate any extrenious options from your selection process, but niether the TRIAD (old Discount Auto Parts system) or APAL (current Advance Auto Parts system) allow that feature. What TRIAD DID have that the "upgraded" APAL did not was a year range for every part that would give you an idea what model years a certain part would fit, which would help a lot when trying to play the mix and match game with dirt track racers and hot rodders. The reason Napa employees seem so much more knowledgeable is because the ARE. They are required to get ASE certified to keep their jobs, whereas Advance Auto Parts employees are ENCOURAGED to get certified (they pay for the test). Napa stuff costs more, so if you can do the homework yourself, you can get the same stuff at a better price from some of the other parts stores.

Label them as "drift practice wheels" and watch the bids come rolling in...

I'm running 205-50-17's and am looking to change to a 215/45-17 for a lower profile. I tried a 235/40-17, and it rubbed like the dickens when you would wrap the wheel. From what I could tell, it was hitting the front part of the outside fender, but it was hard to tell exactly.

Guess you guys are shopping at the wrong Advance Auto Parts. You just have to find the "performance guy" when you are asking about cut to fit wires, that way he can ask if you need straight boots, 45 degree boots, or 90 degree boots. Hei style? Oh wait, that's right, everything is the same on all 350 engines. Do you want red, yellow, or blue?

Updraft? I wonder if there is a performance benefit to spitting the air/fuel mixture up out of the carb like a volcano...would that make it an external combustion engine? Way cooler than a nitrous purge! Sorry dude, you know I had to give it to you a little bit. That's a Downdraft carb.

I think the seller (heavy85) is a member here, no?

Speaking for underpaid morons everywhere, I'd have to say that your experience is pretty typical. Unless you find the one or maybe two people in the store that are actually parts knowledgeable, you're pretty much out of luck. I worked at Advance for 5 years, and they have NO training in place to help new hires learn anything useful about mechanics, yet they offer free battery installation (once again with no training) and wiper blade installation. These two operations seem like the kind of jobs you'd have to be entirely brain dead to screw up, but I had a MANAGER break a windshield while installing blades on a customer's car, and reversed cables wasn't unheard of either. I was ASE parts certified, as were one or two other buddies I worked with, so we spent most of our time helping the other employees figure out how deal with: "I need this" "what is it?" " I don't know, you're the parts guy, I just know it's broken," "Look's like a water pump, what's it for?" "My car." "..." "Any particular Make or Model?" "It's a 350." "what year?" "doesn't matter, they're all the same." "Ok sir here you go." (I just handed him a cam driven water pump for an SS impala 350, knowing it wasn't right just because he was a jerk and to prove that they are NOT all the same and it isn't my job to know what kind of car he has, but his) "that'll be $200." "WTF!? that's not the right pump!" "But it is for a 350, I thought they were all the same? Would you like to try again with the year and make?" Now, I'm pretty sure that Grumpy isn't THAT customer, but at least 85% of the people who walk in to a store like that ARE. So based on that, if you want to get the right part, make sure you bring it with you to compare, and look for somebody that might know what they are talking about or else you WILL get the wrong part.

I saw one going for $50 a month or so ago...

That manifold is perfect for turbo...Too bad the intake manifold is cast into the head, it would be cool to run 8 1-barrells or ITB's on that.

You HAVE to keep that straight 8, or else trade him up for your L26 and put that in your z.

It might have gone up, I haven't been on the market for engines lately. I know the entry fee went up to $2 from $1 recently though...greedy sons of...

You've got a very impressive car there guy. My hat is off to you.

He'd never see you coming with that fly new paint job, either! "Attitude adjustment delivery service, I have a package here for shady ebay seller?" "I'm sorry, you're from whe***SMACK!!!!!****" "That will be $39.95 COD, will this be cash, check, or charge?"

When are we going to see some burnout pics? I'll take two tickets to ze german engineering showcase please...

That is what a stock, 7.4-1 compression L28ET will make withOUT boost? That seems a little optimistic to me, especially with no dyno chart to back it up... This is the wrong forum to try to pull one over on by keeping anything that can prove your claims "proprietary." If you are trying to sell something to an informed buyer, it helps to be able to provide the type of information they would need when selecting between your product, another product, or spending the time to make the product themselves (which many members are capable of doing, and have done). Also surprising to me is your 75mm throttle body on a ported factory manifold. I've got a 60mm, and it really does not look like there is another 15mm worth of removeable material there to fit an even larger unit (but since I haven't got any actual proof whether it will or will not fit, I'll reserve judgement on that until I see a picture of the manifold in the engine bay)

I think I need an intake manifold that looks like that...nice ITB's...

That's pretty cool! Reminds me of the thread awhile back with the L-series powered speed boats... here is the whole thread, but it's actually about a mechanical fuel injection manifold... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107893&highlight=boat

Also www.mcmaster.com offers a bunch of different tube sections.

Here's a Mopar'd Datsun for ya. Braap, I love that car you posted!

I just made a new one out of a plastic bushing I got from ACE hardware. Cost me $.20, plus a bit of my time to "adjust" the fit. It's super tight, and I haven't had any problems so far.

Right behind you Brad, I worked at an Advance Auto parts in Thonotasassa, and I had a conversation with a guy driving a 4 year old Lexus GS300 painted metallic candy pumpkin sitting on 18" chrome wheels that didn't have three dollars to get gas that night. I always said I'd never go larger than +2 on a z, but I got such a sweet deal on these wheels, and for all intents and purposes, they are the only set of them I'm likely to see anywhere else (girl in a prom dress syndrome). I feel that it's ok to give up ultimate balls to the wall performance for a small amount of style on a street car, considering that it's primary duty is not going to be racing. I have a set of 15X7 MOMO quasars that I was planning to put a serious performance tire on for those times that I was going to have some real fun with the car, but if anybody wants them, I'd part with them in a heartbeat. I'm still holding out for some 15X8" Advan Oni's to fall in my lap, but I really doubt that will happen...I keep waiting for the point of diminishing returns with SUV's and their "wheels", but it doesn't seem to have reached that critical threshold yet. I think the "spinners" are the single dumbest thing invented for a vehicle since the undercar neon light. I'm very particular about wheels, moreso than any other exterior mod, and I only like certain types. Definitely the auto equivalent of a sneaker pimp. I constantly argue with people around me about not buying oversize chrome wheels for their cars, but I can only cry out in the wilderness so many times before I just start saying "sure, if those are what you really want.." I've come to the conclusion people ask my opinion AFTER they've already made up their minds because they already know I'm not going to tell them what they want to hear.