veritech-z

I really think you're better off with your current setup, Zane. I think there is more power to be had from getting a custom manifold and doing some tuning than to try and rig up some TBI.

Just wait till I get some editing software...and my z running...then I'm coming for you phil! As soon as that happens, I'm declaring the official Hybridz talent (or spectacular lack-thereof) show to be ON!

I've seen the solid hubcap anti-spinners, but not for awhile. Bentleys or Rolls Royce (I don't remember which) come with the little logo in the center caps that are weighted in such a way that they are always straight up and down.

This one looks like it got attacked by a ninja or something.

I don't know, it would be kinda cool if the wheel itself weren't so ugly and rediculous looking. It wouldn't surprise me if these started showing up on race cars so they could sell more advertising space. Imagine driving around with chunk from the Goonies doing the truffle shuffle on one wheel, and Big-Phil rockin out to some metallica on the other wheel...The possibilites for dumb-ass-ery are endless! It would be much cooler if it could play video.

Russell makes aluminum hard fuel line in anodized colors. I don't know if it's rated for brake lines too. You should be able to find them in a Jegs or Summit catalog.

Well, there were some good ideas being kicked around on the thread you are referencing (most of which were mine, eat your heart out, OTM! j/k). I think if you are shooting for ultimate performance, putting them in the same location they came on the fuel injected cars would be worthwhile. You might as well switch to o-ring style, to open up your options with aftermarket injectors.

None of the original actors wanted to appear in this one, so I'm still casting for part three.

You guys are just haters. Rock on Phil!

That still leaves you either using a tripple carb manifold drilled for six injectors, or doing it like twm and some other companies do where the fuel rail sprays fuel down the throat of the throttle body.

That settles it. Big_Phil is the king of the internet!

I think the camo zzzap! needs to glow in the dark. What a cool stock of paint effects they have there...

How about Camo??? Only cost you about $15 dollars, but you'll have to flash some i.d. when you buy the paint. Plus it goes nicely with the Jersey Satin...(except we call it "Tampa Satin" here in the dirty south. [actually I just made that up, we just hang our heads in shame when people ask why our cars are flat black and tell them "I'm painting it next week..."])

Did they not? My car began it's life as an Automatic, so I didn't have to worry about that. Let me see if my service manual is here...I don't think this guy's problem is fuel related, just because he said the fuel would squirt out everywhere. Does the starter work? *edit* According the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, the manual transmission 280z's 75 and up were equipped with a neutral safety switch. It's on page 246 if anybody wants to check up on it.

Is the hole on your wheel larger than the stud? You can get what are called "shank lug nuts" that fit down inside the wheel almost anywhere that sells vehicle accessories. A wheel shop would be a great place to start.

That IS dramatic! I was just trying to understand what your equation actually represents.

So THAT'S where I went wrong...I kept getting carded at Wal-mart when i was buying spray cans. I guess you have to be 18 to get high on fumes or write graffitti now.

I'm still interested, you've got PM.

I guess that would depend on your manifold. It also has that much more room to seperate out if something were not working correctly.

From a performance standpoint, Port injection would give you a more accurate fuel delivery to each cylinder. There were a lot of factory cars equipped with TBI, but not too many of them were performance oriented that I can think of (except the starion/conquest). If you've already got an L28et, and megasquirt, I'd think you would be ahead of the game instead of trying to retrofit some kind of TBI getup on there.

Hey Olie, did you get anywhere with that yet?

Prox, you lost me buddy. I was trying to figure out what the equation OTM posted was supposed to tell us about his mystery metal intercooler material. I assumed it was supposed to give us some kind of heat exchange efficiency or something...How does that stuff fit in to his equation?

intake temp in british thermal units, multiplied by air velocity in feet per hour (is that air inside the intercooler, or air through the intercooler?) multiplied by square footage of intercooler, multiplied by ambient air temperature in degrees farenheit equals 65-is that the correct way to interperet those values? but what unit is the answer given in, and what does it represent?

Your car would have been originally equipped with an L28 that had fuel injection, probably an N42 casting, since that's what my 77 had in it. The problem with these (or any car this old really) is that you never really know what a previous owner may have done. Before you buy a new engine, I think you should sort out what's happening with this one. It sounds like an electrical problem, so a new engine is going to do the same thing unless you fix this one. When you say you have it in neutral, is the gear shifter in neutral, or is your foot on the clutch? Your foot should be on the clutch unless the neutral safety switch has been bypassed.

Is that 200mph tape on the hood extension, or is that a hinge of some kind? Also, what's the story with that little can that the upper radiator hose runs to?