dsommer

Haha, OK lets see you do it, haha

Just wanted to wish everybody a happy Thanksgiving. I just finished up all the prep work and now everything is cooking. Pretty low key here this year just Lisa and me, she's on bed rest with the twins due Dec 29th. It's been a pretty crazy year; fifth round of invetro, getting pregnant with twins, new job, new house, sold Cobra, bought Scarab, move back into old house (long story short she didn't think it felt like "home") now the waiting for the magical day of our new arrivals. I have a lot to be thankful for, truly blessed. Hope everybody has a great day and for those fortune ones a nice extended weekend. David

I'd shoot for the 8:1 CR with the intercooler. Make sure you run a good rod (standard Eagle SIR rod are good to 500HP). Reason being for the lower compression is that you can up the boost later on. How many times have we wished for more power? Go see the post Grumpy made the other day on what your tying to build. If you haven't started building the engine yet then I would build for the supercharger applacation if you truly want to go that route. Plan on installing an intercooler I feel it is a must on a boosted engine, them more you can cool the intake charge the better. There was a good write up in on of the hot rod mags somebody posted earlier can't find it now. Read this from procharger it basically tells you how to set up your engine: http://www.procharger.com/bebs.shtml (Mike you beat me to the rod issue;)

I gave one away a few years ago by having members "guess" the number I was thinking of. I just couldn't part with mine though.

Here's mine

Join the military!!! Consider the Air Force (ACTIVE DUTY!!!) "it'S a great way of life" Sign up for a 4 year hitch, they'll pay for your food, housing, medical. Give you a paycheck and teach you a skill or trade. I'd stay away from Law enforcement though. While in the AF you can attend school when avaliable. Sign up for the GI bill $100/month for your first year and upon completion of 4 years you'll have plenty of money for school. Once your 4 years are up either opt to stay in if you like it or go back to school (you mentioned Wyotech) or finish up your business degree. If you join now by the time you're done with the military you'll be right at 25 years old. Plenty of time to start a career. Questions: Are your folks paying for your books and tuition? Or are they just supporting you with room and board? (board what the f' is board? Doesn't sound too tasty to me but you hear about it none the less, gotta look that one up, sorry OT). I can understand that having a producer and lawyer in the family has got to be tough on you and so much is expected out of your schooling. Just how many nights a week are you hanging out in the bars with those "tools" when your grades are suffering? B's and C's are decent grades to me. So there you have it, to get out from under the wing of your parents GET OUT. Go see a recruiter today don't commit just go check it out. Will you go to Iraq? Good posibility but I haven't heard of anybody in the AF dying recently. (I did 4 years active Army 1987-1991 (Gulf War Vet), 8 years Army National Guard, 5 years Air Guard and finally quit, yes I had enough after 17 years) I do have my 4 year degree and a great job working for get this Castrol Oil, so go figure it's like having my cake and eating it too. Get to stay close to a passion (cars) working for a helluva brand name company (Castrol) and get a paycheck, nothing wrong with that. Seriously consider the military NOBODY even your parents will brow beat you for this decision. David

I know it holds more sentimental (sp) value to you but it looks like a LWB truck which is does not command top dollar, so swallow the lump in your throat and get ready to give it away. As a guage I just sold my 2002 Dodge Ram Sport quad cab, Red w/leather, Rancho 4" lift, in cab air adjustable shocks, American Eagle wheels with 35" tires and 33K miles sold for 16.5K gave it away but at 9-12 MPG seeeee ya. So what would I pay if I was in the market for your truck? It's 11 years old, non current body style, its been modified, interiors been dyed etc expect about $2500 to $3000 just my shot in the dark.

I'll need it shortly after you. I'll PM you w/my info.

I'm going to bid:lmao:

Damn you guys are GOOD!!!! I think my questions has effectivly been beaten to death. Thanks to all for your input. David doesn't run/won't run/wasn't going to run washers

Like I said I would NOT do this but when I have a question I go to the source of knowledge. Armed with this information I can now explain to the Z31 owner here in town why he should REMOVE the washers from his set up. He's running a Z32 wheel on a Z31 with washers. There ya go guys, you didn't really think I was going to do this did you? VINCE! Remember twins on the way and I value my life David

Not that I would do this but can somebody explain: Why this would not work. Would it be dangerous?

Just what in the he!! did he "think" was going to happen? DA

The're under the car according to his post.

Go to Arlington and see Phantom, prime example of the LS1 conversion.

First off is it a "real" Scarab? Many people put the Scarab lettering on Z's so here's how to find out if it's the real deal. First look at the drivers side door jamb, there should be a data plate there that says Manufactured by Scarab along with a serial number. Next look at the quarter window glass there might be stickers there that say Scarab. Glove box door should also reference manufactured by Scarab. Finally, if you dare in a JY climb under the car an see if it has a torque bar connectioning to the rear diferental. Next question what is it worth. Depends, as usual. It's in a JY for a reason rust, crushed, smashed? Does it have an engine 350 or 327. What body work does it have some cars came equiped with flaired fenders. A car in "mint" condition I'd say 20 to 25K perhaps a bit on the high end but there weren't many of these made. In fact Bruce Bladon (http://zhome.com search for the article on the Scarab) has only documented 10 or 11 of the original cars. So how much are these cars worth? Well they don't show up often, and rarely change hands so it's anybody's guess. I aquired my Scarab at the end of September so I'm still a bit new to the whole Scarab scene, I don't even feel comfortable using the word scene because there really isn't one. If you did find a real Scarab though please contact Bruce with the information on the car (trinitymetals@shawcable.com) David Additional info here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16853 http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/

Go see your local travel agent, some Wal-Marts and Sams Clubs have travel agencies too. I went on a 7 dayer out of New Orleans 3 years ago and had a blast. Just be careful not to drink too much because it'll seriously affect your budget. I cleaned out the mini bar like 3 or 4 times, had a good time but $$$. They charge you for each alcoholic drink AND soda, or you can buy a soft drink card for like $20 when you register to get on the boat which is a good deal IMO. Also you cannot take liquor on the ship. If you buy liquor on land you have to turn it in when you reboard (you get it back when you arrive at the home port) same goes for bottled liquor purchased on the ship. Have a good time!!!

I don't want to bend any metal on this car, it's an original Scarab with nice paint build date of 10/70, so I'm hesitant to do structural changes to it. I never thought about the removal of wheel material, interesting concept. Drivers side tire is pretty gouged from the fender lip cutting into it and the other rear tire got driven on while flat the other day (don't ask just a baaaad day) and get this, both tires are leaking around the bead so I'm thinking screw Dunlops, any of them. I'm running Dunlop AT's on my 02 Ram 4X4 and got 20K miles out of em, never Dunlop a car again, IMO. I love the Kuhmo Ecastas on my 240Z but Tire Rack doesn't spec the tread width so I can't make an informed decision at this point. My Illuminas just showed up but not going to run the springs at this time.

Inner fender lip. But they have corrected the issue with the wheels now.

Called Sal at MS to shed light on the problem. My Pannasports are the older ones they sold up to 2002 or so which have 0 offset new sets have -6 offset to cure the rubbing issue. Next is the "foot print" of the tire, I'm running Dunlop 9000's which have a 8.1" foot print. After researching tire rack I found that Firestone wide ovals have a foot print of 7.2" which should solve the rubbing issue. When Scarab built the cars they installed their own specific springs along with Tokicko adjustables (optional). My car doesn't have the adjustable shocks, all the suspension is rubber (and worn out) so it makes me wonder what springs are on the car??? I do not have a rubbing issue in the front only the rear so I don't know which approach to take, it needs new struts, that's a given the car "bounces" as far as the springs they may still be good, figure the front doesn't rub and supports the weight of a full iron engine in the Scarab position. Since I have issue with the tires I'm going to launch the Dunlops and get the Firestones, replace all the rubber bushings, and install the Illuminas. I'll keep the original springs in for now if they give me problems I'll switch the rears out with the Tokico's. I have approx. 9 weeks to get this done because the twins are due so I better get on it ASAP. David

OK after doing a search and discovering that the Tokico springs aren't going to cut it for the Scarab what are other sugguestions? The problem is the rear tire is rubbing bad (16X7 Pannasport w/225/50/16 tire), so I'm replacing the current set up with Illuminas and springs but obviously the progressive Tokicos won't work. What spring should I run? This is a street car, I don't want a teeth jarring ride, I like soft;) this car will not see the track ever. Sugguestions?

Oh I thought we were looking at 16X7, hmmm. Anyway I have Pannasports on the Scarab and yes they rub BAD!!! I'm replacing the springs and struts this weekend(?) to gain some clearance hope it helps. I'd still be down for a set though, anybody know if the 15" Konig clears the AZ big brake conversion?

Although it was a bit $$$ there was no way I could fit a standard lift in my garage, next time yes but for now this will have to do. Since everyday is one day closer to being a new daddy I've deceided to put safety first, no more jack stands. I ordered this lift today and it will be here tomorrow. I wanted blue but since he had red in stock and was headed this way I went ahead and ordered it. It should make working under the car much more convienent and safer. I added two lift bridges to the main structure so I can remove the tires and wheels too. Although that involves jack stands it wouldn't hit the ground if it does fall. Photos courtesy of Quicklift customer cars:

Yeah, I feel ya on that one Bill.

I'm tired of working under the car while it's up on jackstands what do you think of this lift? Of course jack stands will still have to be used if performing suspension work but I would feel safer. Are there other you would recommed? Too bad I don't have room for a "real" lift, next time. http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm