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dsommer

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Everything posted by dsommer

  1. I've got an x member, powder coated dark gray my have the tc rods too. Pm me
  2. +1 on the gif!!! Awsome! LMAO when I saw it.
  3. Nothing is sacred or safe any longer. I had my 07 Charger SRT8 KEYED in my drive way, and I live in a nice neighborhood. Jacob, how did that rearend I sold you ever work out? Just courious. PM me. David
  4. Try to get in touch with Brian (azcarbum) he has my old ones and has somebody that can make fiberglass molds to recreate these if there is enough interest. Here is a link to his site. My link
  5. ^^^ Just an FYI that is a Rota 17X9.5 with a 275-40-17 mounted on it. It takes a big tire and wheel to fill out these flairs which means more $$$$ than I wanted to spend.
  6. I sold my rear flairs to somebody on the board, I don't recall if was going to reproduce them but he does have the ability to do so.
  7. Looking at your diagram, I believe there is a stock proportioning valve prior to the rear T fitting. Also on your front diagram the inlet would be the bottom of the T, not the side.(you probably knew that though). Also there is some type of manifold proportioning valve just after the master cylinder. Look at some stock set ups and you'll see what I'm talking about.
  8. according to Mike the air date is May 9th.
  9. Checking in as an old time memeber here (Feb 00 joined when it used to be v8zcars.com....). Sorry to hear about your wrist conditon (tried advanced medicine?) It's been 11 years now and I still haven't finished my original "vision" of a modified Z. I'm getting closer but damn the cost to "do it right" is kicking my arse! Best of luck to ya and I'd check on the paddle shifters too! David
  10. Aw man that's classic stuff right there, not that I would ever paint my car in that style but it's Datsun heritage.
  11. I bought a kit off ebay that has sections of hard line that need to be bent. It was <$50. I would recomend getting this set up as #1 I don't think 25' of brake line is going to be quite enough (might be wrong) #2 the ends of what I bought are alredy flaired and have the proper metric fittings on them. They are in various length sections and you'll need a tube bender. I haven't started on mine yet but fwiw making all those double flairs is a PITA. My link
  12. The silver looks good, the stripes, not so much.... Newbie, haha.
  13. I purchased a March serpentine pully kit for mine (not installed yet) included compressor, PS pump, water pump and all the pullies.
  14. Another source for custom wheels is Team 3 wheels. They cam make you a 17x11 http://www.etwheels.com/
  15. Huh? You may want to edit your post, too vague.
  16. You can check out my build in the members section. I went a similar route with a "rust free car" although mine has a roof. If you're planning on farming out the work get ready to pay $$$. Floors and frame rails and some "other" additional work wound up costing me $3K. (not including parts, zeddfindings floorpans, bad dog frame rails + subframe connectors) Good luck with the build and keep us posted though!!!!
  17. As the title states looking for a fiberglass rear bumper for a 72 240Z. Thanks David
  18. What is the one part you long for your Z? I'm not talking about experimental parts, I'm thinking one off's or oem/nla that are out there some where, that just don't come up for sale very often.
  19. Not far from being paited, color is going to be Artic White with gunmetal gray metalic accents (flairs, bumpers, wheels) A few pics from Nex Hot Rods. Pics courtsey of Nex Hot Rods in Gentry, AR Images here NEX HOT RODS
  20. Congrats! Feel fortunate you did have twins like we did. Sleep+twins forget about it! My boys are 5 now and in to everything. Especially dirt and shovels.
  21. ^^^ excellent write up on the topic! As the old saying goes, you get what you pay for. As far as crack heads painting cars, I wouldn't let them touch my car with a 10 foot pole. I shopped around before I chose the shop to paint my car, the estimates were all pretty close to one another. So you throw out the high and low and deceide from there. 75zcar, it's not getting raped, it's paying for a quality show car finish that's done right. I did find a shop that would do it for $2500 after looking at a "rod" they painted for a customer I couldn't get off the property quick enough!
  22. Figure body work and paint for a nice paint job you'll be looking at $4k to the moon. Any shop that says they can do it for less than $2500 you're not going to get any quality IMO. With out body work on a stripped car I'm going north of $4500 right now at a custom shop. Btw the car is going to be white not a metallic or pearl.
  23. I had the same trim on my 73 240. I drilled out the rivets but subsequently ditched the car. Drilling them out is the quickest way to go. You have to determine what your going to do short term wiht the car though. New paint etc. If paint is out of the question I'd bondo them up, sand smooth and shoot a color matching paint on top of it. Keep in mind that what's under the moulding may be quite ugly paint wise so additional work may be needed. I'd keep them in place until you've commited to restore/repaint the entire car. Just my .02 worth
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