dsommer

Have you checked Tie rod ends? Ball joints? Control arm bushings? If you're going to rebuild the suspension do it the right way by replacing the wear parts I just mentioned and then getting a good alingment. The U-clap is stock to the 240Z's I'm not 100% sure of the purpose but I always adjusted the rubber stopper against the X member. Be sure to check all your brake hardware too and make sure you don't have a sticky caliper/pads and warped rotors.

I didn't know Sears made a 335 Roadhandler...hmmmm What size rim are you running IMO a 215 is kind of on the small side with 400 HP. I was running a 225/45/17 on a 7" rim out back I had the BFG G-force tires est HP was around 400 with a WC-T5 tranny and the 3.7 LSD. Traction= very little at full throttle.

Uh, yeah it's a 70, come on it looks good just check it for rust. Are you planning on doing a Hybrid conversion on the car? I wouldn't, not on that one. It appears to be good candidate for restoration (yes I said it). I'd snag it before it's gone!

Here ya go Dan

Similar but not the same. Just depends if you want original Nissan/Datsun parts or something that is close. I prefer the original ones myself.

From your topic that ended up in the shed, it appears that photo came from Branson (Branson Zfest circa 2005-6) are you from the area NWA, SWMO?

10K Let see, I've got $7500 + in just the body of my car (and it doesn't have paint!), around another $5K in just the engine, not including the transmission. (SBC 383 stroker) Suspension $who knows, rear LSD set up $who knows. Interior plastics, seats, gagues, tires and wheels....you see the list goes on and on. $10K ain't crap if your building a potent 1st gen car that is going to be able to stand up to the abuse of 400-500 HP. Don't forget your brakes either!!! Build link

Scottie, Sorry for your loss, you're in my thoughts and prayers. Remind yourself of the good times you've shared with your father. Keep your chin up. (lots of OG Z members posting in here )

Right here 280Z76LS2....$365 + shipping. Zcar Customs Tell em David Sommer sent ya!

Here is a link to my build thread if you'd like to check it out. 1 TUF ZGZ

The ideal set up is a CLSD (R-200) with a cv axel conversion. The link I posted above for MML rearend set up is going to be the most economical route as you won't have to "hunt" down/fabricate the parts, just the rear dif and axels. My rear set up is a CLSD with the MML adaptors with 280ZX turbo cv axels Ron Tyler dif mount (RT mount) and a custom brace to allow me to run the finned rear end cover It's kind of hard to see the RT mount but it goes up inside the transmission tunnel then an Energy Suspension GM transmission poly mount sandwiches inbetween the nose of the dif and the RT mount. The bottom of the dif attaches with a stock Datsun isolator to the X member.

Time to start searching and reading. Where are you coming up with a Z32 is hard to launch? You're planning on building a S30 (240,260,280) body style car. A Z32 is a 3rd generation Z. A member on this board had done a wheel stand with an R-200, go search you'll find all the information you need.

For your rear end set up. Modern MS I think this would save you a lot of time and money in the long run. I'd also consider paying a bit (or quite a bit) more for as rust free car as you can find. Trust me so many of us have traveled down this road it's no longer funny. You may want to consider buying somebodys project that has been modified already, you could sell off the extra parts to offset the purchase price of the car, just more food for thought. Here is a darn good starting point for a roller. Dragonfly FS

If you've ever driven or have the chance to drive a Z with the upgraded AZZC Wilwood brake set up you'd understand, there is stopping power and there is STOPPING power. On my first V8 Z car I installed the Wilwood kit and WOW talk about bang for your buck I'd recomend it to anybody wanting to make their Z STOP. Is it money well spent? Again yes.

So how did you place?

Hey Stewart, it was good to meet you in Branson this year at Z fest. If the sale falls through consider parting the car out. You've got some good parts in there and I know an outlet where you could move the LS engine and transmission quickly and at a decent price. Probably the guages too. The remainder would sell here on Hybrid or ebay. Keep the shell, drop a SBC in it later with a JTR kit. This approach would generate you some funds in a short time frame vs the attempts to sell the whole package. Oh and by the way...I've got around 4 years wrapped up in building my gnose car and I'm still no where closer to done than I was back in May. David Rogers, AR

TOOL DEFINITIONS: DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ''What the...?’’ ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC''S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ''DAMMIT'' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need

Dry ice FTW.

Custom CF center consoles to accept extra switches and gauges CF A-piller pod gauges that actually fit correctly ^^^Thats what I'm talking about, heck they don't even have to be CF for me.

Pics of the girl or it didn't happen......

Dry ice. Place it on the area you want to remove the "tar", let it sit for a minute or two then give it a whack with a rubber mallet or chisle it off. It makes it nice and brittle and will shatter it.

Could you elaborate further on the sound deadening aspect of your post? Brand names, pics would be great. I'm about to sound deaden my interior and am considering the second skin approach with the spray on part. Did you spray on then use the dynamat then the closed cell? Thanks, David

Yeah and July had 5 Thursdays, 5 Fridays and 5 Saturdays.... I'm just sayin'

Bill, Good to hear from you and that you and Chris are alive and well in WA. Thanks again for the update and remember you're always welcome up (er down) here in Arkansas. David

Needs to learn how to do a decent burn out !FAIL! He also needs to tune the engine, shouldn't that thing run off and LEAVE a LS1, looks like they were hanging with him he wasn't running off and leaving them. Finally, I hate it when people put fender emblems on valve covers/engine covers, so cheesy IMO....