Dtsnlvrs

And a link to the "official" Italian Fan Club http://www.320judd.tk/

This one is awesome...gotta love sequential gearboxes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH765I6XCqs

Here you go Paul..BTW my son loves this one

I have it on my hard drive...I will see if I can get it uploaded somewhere and post a link

Very nice results

Nevermind..found http://www.fj20.com

And about the FJ motor. Am I wrong to think that that was supposed to be Nissan's foray into F-1 until F-1 decided to go all N/A, and the project was shelved? If that is true, it should be good for GOBS of HP

Didn't they use L-series rods in that motor??

Big Jim, are you living in So Cali, or Las Vegas?

This program works very well and as far as I can tell, should be pretty accurate for a base line setup. I suggest everyone play around with this program and see what it reccomends. Remember to ALWAYS take your actual single cylinder displacement and multiply by 4 to get the engine size for this program. Also, be very realistic about your peak HP rpm....in my case, I use 7000...even though I have not dynoed it, but because I will not rev mine past that. L24 guys....input 1600cc, 5500rpm, and F and see what it tells you. Alot of us have been WAY over carbing our engines.

Here is a picture of the mounting location for my MSD

I agree with you. I have had my MSD installed for about 6yrs now and have had no problems with it. Then again, I mounted it inside the cabin and out of the elements, and I do not do silly things like remove the battery cable when it is running I think the biggest thing that kills MSD boxes, and any black box for that matter, is a combination of heat, moisture, and vibration. If you mount the box in the engine bay, you are asking for trouble. Also you must use a suppresion wire...not the wires that MSD sells, but a tru EMI suppresion wire like Magnecor, even OEM style NGK work better at EMI supression than some other brands. Just my .02...maybe I have been lucky or maybe I found the secret...I do not know, just know it works for me.

And Florida beat Arkansas...so who will be the new no. 2 come Sunday Night????

I would say that rotors would be the cause 80% of the time, wheel alignment 16% of the time and road condition 1%...

Could not have said it better myself.

We should hook up and do lunch one day

Actually that is at Tynadall AFB in Panama City Beach, FL. And you are correct, mere mortals are not allowed to photograph on the flighline

Dear Santa, I would like to recieve 1: A custom BRAAP cylinder head...however, a gift cert to have my exhisting head ported by him will do. 2: A complete TWM ITB setup w/ECU of choice...however, just fix my webers so I can get 25mpg and we'll call it even. 3: A 4.11 r180 w/lsd....and also a 4.36, and a 3.9....however the 4.11 will be just fine. I have been a very bad boy this year and do not expect you to fully comply with my request...just be warned that there are no witnesses at 1000 yards and I have been trained well. Having said that...I will take a Rack of Heffeweisen and twins, but she will do.

Not A Photo, but had to add it cause it is such a cool screenshot

Sunrise @ 43000ft 1/32scale Phantom Cockpit Aurora Borealis USAF Heritage Flight

Nice

Well it sounds good anyway, and I will only add that if you wanna know what it is like to drive a 350whp 240Z...take a bone stock 240Z to Italy and drive on their marble substrated roads...damn they are slick

450 for two MOMO seats in the USA...snatch em up....they usually go for about 400+ each

Those look similar to the MOMO street racer seats I have in my Z. the trick is to mount the seat a little offset to the inboard. You can also use a heavy duty cargo strap to "squeez" the wings in a little. The interference with the wings is that they will contact the door panel when you shut it. IMHO, buy the seats at that price and then do as stated above to make them fit. That is a great price. I paid $400 for a pair at the factory when I lived in Italy back in 99....

Nothing says "get the f?#k outta my house" like 230gr of .45cal lead. :-D