Dtsnlvrs

Please do, I am very interested in this piece...don't wanna spend 300+ dollars for a ATI, or Rebello Damper.

What years are the parts cars...I am looking for some specific drivline and susp pieces...PM sent

Nice Job Jim, BTW I do have those SM needles, just gotta dig em out

Agreed

What rear-end ratio do you have and what is your tire size?

"I am going to blow up the Earth with my U-31 Space Modulator" Marvin The Martian all the way

Hey that reminds me of the time......never mind it would take waaaay too long, however....imagine the same exact story..similar at least...but instead of meds and go home from the ER....how bout 2 weeks in a hospital bed hooked up to gawd knows how many IV's....damn near ruined my military career before it began...lost somthing like 25 lbs in a week and damn near killed myself in the process....I lost so much weight that at basic training (1 month later) they listed me as 5'5" so that I made the weight table...I am 5'9" for crying out loud....So man in a nutshell, I can relate...Hope you get to feeling better soon.

SEC Speed Baby

I had the opportunity to buy a Euro Spec E-30 M-3 when I was stationed in Italy...but as usual I procrastinated and lost out. Actually there were so many neat cars I coulda bought over there and missed out on cause as soon as I was ready to drop the money...something new would catch my eye. As far as tires go OTM, they change them after every stage...I would get used "blacktop rally rubber" for pennies on the dollar in 23x10x15 every year when the rally circuit came through, and then use it for auto-x on base or open track days at Hockenheim and The Hungaroring

PM me some pics.

How true.

The loose wire hanging next to your radiator on the passenger side is for the Factory "Trouble" Light As far as the rest of the descriptions go, they were all spot on, however...forget about the switching valve...they are all corroded and non functioning by now (most of them). Cap off the nipple at the crankase breather and just run a line from the vent tube to the back of the air cleaner. DO NOT BLOCK THAT LINE. If you do, the fuel tank will not vent, therfore with a full fuel tank and hot weather you will see fuel seeping from the Fill cap.

The stock, round top, SU will feed a otherwise stock L-28 just fine up to about 6k. After that and they simply cannot supply enough fuel. Also you should contact Z Therapy and get some SM needles. They will provide the richer fuel curve needed with a 2.8L.

I will just say that my MSD has been installed in my car for 6yrs now, with no failures. It is triggered by a Pertronix unit and I use Magnecor wires. I also installed the MSD on the Firewall INSIDE the cabin to keep it out of the heat and elements. Just my $.02

I want one of those

I think my wife paid 3k for mine in 1998. It was my 28th birthday present

And then you met me and wished you had not sold the webers

E31, E88, N42, P90

Got it at Big O Tires right now doing a re-mount (left to right) and balance. We shall see if that does it.

Yes, the ratio change did get me into the powerband I wanted. It is perfect, just a little tweaking of the carbs and we should be spot on. On a side note, I now have a wicked vibration that is speed specific...could be halfshafts or tires...gotta sort that one out...I am inclined to believe it would be the halfshafts.....never felt out of balance tires cause this much vibration.

I have seen a pair of HS8 Jag SUs modified to work on the N36 manifold, but I cannot recall the specifics of doing it, but it has been done. In your case, I say we get a pair of "stock" SUs running right on your current engine and go from there.

I had a lean Christmas due to moving this year but here it goes. 30gal 2hp Air Compressor w/ related tools 1/2 drive impact 3/8 drive ratchet die grinder paint gun air hammer R180 4.11 diff Heat sheilds for Weber DCOE Rebuild kits for triple webers A ton of new weber parts from EuroCarb LTD UK ACT Clutch Maxima Flywheel To reciprocate, I gave my wife $300 gift card to Victoria Secret Oh and the best present I got was my 2nd son that was born this year...could not be happier.

Well put Mike

Um, nope..a early to late r-180 conversion....more af a ratio change thing...I am just happy that it is done

The 81-83 N/A 5sp box main shaft nut is threaded opposite from the main shaft nut on all the other z-car transmissions. It was done to prevent the main shaft nut from loosening as the tranny aged. I have opened and repaired many 4 and 5 speed datsun Z boxes, and to a "T" I would either recommend staying with the "B" type 4sp or install a 81-83 N/A 5sp. The 77-79 5sp was a bastard box....essentially a 4sp that was converted and or modified to make it a 5sp. The 81-83 5sp was a purpose built (to last) 5sp gearbox. As far as your issue goes, your problem is prolly not tranny related at all, but clutch, and for the record...the quickest, as in 0-60 time, L-6 powered Z I ever drove was Turboed with a 4sp and 3.54.